rc8t

i emailed mike a little while ago and he had said it will be available like the crt .5 combo or seperate pieces , i dont know if he will have the battery tray as an option or not , but i THINK it is


also said about the same time frame .... so any day it should be up


i picked up a motor mount for my rc8 from a rctech member but will get one of these chassis when they become available

[RC-Monster Mike]

Here is a quick picture of the chassis layout - waiting for the parts to come back from heat treat(final product will be black hard-anodized). Chassis is made from 7075 aluminum. :)

[rootar]

THAT looks SWEET mike! so simple and clean looking looks like plenty of room to mount the MMM on either side behind the motor or battery, possibly with the new erevo's clamp mount.


ill have to start saving my money.

[lstmuggy]

that looks awesome, very clean looking layout

[bdebde]

Black AND hard anodized, man you are just going to make me get another project started. I gotta get me one now dang it.

Just playing a little bit of devils advocate here but why make your own chassis? Why not just use the OEM chassis and add components to it? I've seen that Tekno is doing the same thing (coming out with their own chassis) and I've been a little confused as to why...

I will say, that I've never replaced the chassis in my (old, 3 seasons) E-Truggy so I don't think it much matters either way.

[jhautz]

A totally new chassis offers a few benfits the way I see it. It allows you to slightly move some of the standard components around to achieve a more optimal weight balance in the truck. (ie. center diff off to the side rather than directly on the center line allowing the heavy battery to be moved closer to the center line of the truck, or the chassis brace mount holes shifted a bit from ones side to the other to allow motor clearance or what ever that particular chassis needs for a more optimized layout.. Second is there aren't a ton of extra holes that are all over the place and it looks cleaner. 3rd, the stock chassis are designed to work with setiups that include servo tray and radio box that run front to back on the chassis. This acts as a stiffening member and removing it allows more chassis flex in alot of cases. Making a electric specific chassis allows it to be "tuned" for use with a battery box on the other side or whatever. Not really sure how much effect this has, but it is something to consider IMO.

Sounds good to me. Only thing I'd wonder is about kinking the driveline angle. Tamiya made a big deal about how their new truggy has a perfectly straight driveline and how that increases efficiency or some such thing. I can't help but wonder if angle in some way reduces torque or introduces friction or something.

That RC8T photo Mike posted is super clean...and quite awesome looking.

Hey, what about this as a somewhat crazy idea...what about a battery tray which runs almost the WHOLE length of the left side BUT it would have some kind of notched design so you could basically choose where to mount the pack for the best weight given the pack and track conditions? Maybe little screw in stoppers so you could quickly adjust the battery location?

I have a tendency to like mine as far forward as possible but I wonder if that's because that is all I know or if because it actually makes it drive better...

looks great Mike



i need this chassis for sure , looks very well balanced

[RC-Monster Mike]

Originally Posted by Electric Dave

Just playing a little bit of devils advocate here but why make your own chassis? Why not just use the OEM chassis and add components to it? I've seen that Tekno is doing the same thing (coming out with their own chassis) and I've been a little confused as to why...

I will say, that I've never replaced the chassis in my (old, 3 seasons) E-Truggy so I don't think it much matters either way.

Jhautz answered this for the most part, but I will throw in my 2 cents worth:

Some trucks simply don't balance well with the stock chassis conversions. The RC8 and a few others have the center diff pretty close to the center, so it has a tendency to be heavy on the battery side(unless a small pack is used). The Losi is well laid out for a conversion, as is the 808 buggy, while others(RC8, Tamiya since you mentioned it) can benefit from relocating some components.
While Tamiya's marketing regarding the straight drive train has validity(less wear and slightly less friction), it comes down to a matter of priority I suppose. You could drive a truck with a "straight drive train" that is off balance, but seldom wears out a drive pin, or you could drive a perfectly balanced truck that handles better and transitions better in turns, but requires drive shaft maintenence occasionally. The friction equation is marginal. I know my preference. Tamiya went "straight", but most others have gone "balanced".
The full chassis conversion also makes layout neater and cleaner(potentially of course) and has no extra holes to collect dirt or snag rx leads. Most "stock chassis" conversions are somewhat of a compromise - nitro layout works, but an electric specific layout has its advantages. We still offer(and always will) the individual parts for those looking to save some $ and use the stock chassis - if someone wants the most ideal, balanced platform, I would suggest the full chassis kit. :)

Great answer, thanks!

if you mount everything as close to center on the truggy it seems to balance out but the buggy forsure is out of balance. ill be getting both chassis one for my buggy and truggy

[RC-Monster Mike]

The extra length and width of the truggy helps mask the imbalance much more than it does on the buggy(buggy is immediately noticeable, while truggy imbalance is more subtle). The larger spur gear on the truggy also "by design" pushes the center diff a little further out than it does on the buggy(so it is less imbalanced to begin with).

[BL_RV0]

Originally Posted by RC-Monster Mike

Here is a quick picture of the chassis layout - waiting for the parts to come back from heat treat(final product will be black hard-anodized). Chassis is made from 7075 aluminum. :)

Very nice! What size medusa is that?