This is not Good

[pasan]

I use dual packs in both my trucks. the e-revo has the pack secured inside the compartments with the wire coming out the side of the cooling vents which require disassembly of the vent itself to remove the pack. I don't leave the packs plugged in when not in use, just when i need to take a break. The e-maxx has its packs strapped using velcro straps and foam chock blocks. Neither setup allows for removal of packs with the body attached.

[E-Revonut]

Originally Posted by pasan

I use dual packs in both my trucks. the e-revo has the pack secured inside the compartments with the wire coming out the side of the cooling vents which require disassembly of the vent itself to remove the pack. I don't leave the packs plugged in when not in use, just when i need to take a break. The e-maxx has its packs strapped using velcro straps and foam chock blocks. Neither setup allows for removal of packs with the body attached.

I beg to differ! I have an E-REVO, and you can ask Luciano if it's possible to change a pack with the body attached. One of my packs came out during the RC-M bash and it happened to be where he was marshalling. He put my battery back in and I was able to continue. The cooling vent does NOT have to be disassembled for removing or putting in a battery.

edit - By the way sorry for getting this thread off subject - and for putting my 2c in

[Pdelcast]

Originally Posted by George16

Lee,
I have a V3. I lengthened the switch wire so I can install the switch inside my rx box. Since you mentioned V2, is it okay to lengthen the switch wire on the V3?

And for the second time, I'm not worried about a short . I'm going to say again that my concern is the fact that when the male connector is inserted into the ESC connector, it is pushing the connector away from the heat sink which puts undue load to the soldered point. Do you understand that? As you can see, there is no gap between the positive connector and heat sink while the negative connecto has about 2mm. I also checked the 2nd V3 I received and it was soldered better. There is at least a 2mm gap between the positive/negative terminals and heat sink.

By the way, I'm not speculating anything. If you can't help any, then I think it would be better if you just do your work at Castle to make the MMM better .

You can read this thread so you can give your input too:
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16497

It's pretty funny (funny ironic, not funny ha-ha) that when we released the Mamba Max we were the target of unending flames (on forums just like this one...) for soldering the wires into through-holes and NOT using the same kind of "solder posts" like everybody else. Everyone claimed that the wire solder joints would fail (because of stress where the solder met the strands of the wire) and replacement wires would be a real problem... etc ... etc... etc...

Now, we are being told the opposite. Because we didn't put wires in the holes, we have a poorly engineered product ... etc. etc. etc...

I mean, I could take a hint from GM racing and not put ANY wires or bullets or posts or anything in the holes, and then not warranty the controller if the end user damages it while soldering their own wires in...


I guess my point is this -- we will be flamed regardless of how we do things, because people have preferences on how they like things. They get used to a certain way of seeing things, and then all other options just don't seem "right."

Believe me, I understand, and I'm not upset about it at all. I just think you should give it a chance. We've engineered it pretty well, and we are pretty confident that the bullets work. The bullets actually allow us to build to demand (which we haven't been able to do with the Mamba Max -- because of the amount of hand-work required for soldering...) so that EVERYONE can get (and afford!) a MMM. (AND -- the difference between the gap on your monster was a minor issue in manufacturing. We have changed the fixtures for the Monster Max to center the heat sink better between the posts. BUT -- it won't cause a problem...)

Thanx for listening to me rant...


OH -- and BTW -- yes, you can lengthen the switch wire on your V3. We actually made a hardware change so that high resistance or inductance on the switch wire wouldn't hurt the BEC from V2 to V3.