Another 8ight-T 2.0 conversion

[Shark413]

Update:

I recieved my Traxxas ESC mount and added it to the Losi. I used the existing holes in the Losi battery tray. Nice clean looking and holds the esc securely. The built in switch mount is also handy.

[Overkill]

That looks very clean with that TRX hold down thingy

I'm waiting for mine to be available in the next month or so, when they ship to hobby shops that freight international, can't wait, yours looks excellent

[Shark413]

As I reported earlier I am running a Smart Diff in the center and the truggy didn't feel right. It didn't seem that the SD was working correctly, too much power was still transferring to the front. So I opened it up and found a couple of problems. First, all (or most) of the grease was gone, apparently even when it seems to be full of grease the centrifugal force causes the grease to squeeze into all the open spaces around the outside of the diff, leaving the middle dry. Secondly I had accidentally rebuilt it using the 90 degree ramps which don't lock as aggressively. So I added the 120 degree ramps, removed two of the four .15mm springs, and regreased everything. Hopefully this will get it to lock up a little faster and more aggressively.


All the grease is around the outside, with nothing in the middle.


Dry diff


90 degree ramp on the left, 120 ramp on the right.

[Overkill]

Are you going to regrease or will you use some diff oil and fill her up? Maybe 3K or something like that, just to keep the gears lubed

[Shark413]

Originally Posted by Overkill

Are you going to regrease or will you use some diff oil and fill her up? Maybe 3K or something like that, just to keep the gears lubed

Overkill, I have been told by others not to use silicone diff oil in the SD because it is not a good lubricant. Some have tried stuff made for cars (Mobil syn oil) but I am sticking with the Losi grease, I just made sure I really packed it in there this time.

the neu castle 2200s do sure seem to run cooler then the 2650's.

Im glad I got the bigger tekin 1515 size for my buggy.

youre not the only one to experience temp problems with the 2650 shark.

most everyone around here can put in 25 min on a 2200 and come off with real cool temps just like you

[Shark413]

Originally Posted by bradfox2

the neu castle 2200s do sure seem to run cooler then the 2650's.

Im glad I got the bigger tekin 1515 size for my buggy.

youre not the only one to experience temp problems with the 2650 shark.

most everyone around here can put in 25 min on a 2200 and come off with real cool temps just like you

Bradfox2, roger that. Since I switched to the 1515 size motors the temps have been excellent and they are only a few grams heavier than the 1512 sized cans. The 1515's run cooler and give you more battery/gearing options.

[Brian]

hey, im about to convert my own 8ight-t and was wounderin if u had to get new screws for the losi motor mount. I've heard some people having problems. Love ur conversion btw, helped me alot in my reseach

I hated the Losi motor mount I went with the RCM mount with my conversion

[Brian]

yeah yeah i know everyone hates it and ill probably get too eventually, but id rather spend only 3$ to get the losi to work as opposed to 50$ for an rcm mount. Shark413 got it to work, so its possible. ill only be bashing so if everythings not smooth as butter, thats ok.

[Shark413]

Update:

Ok I have taken the truggy out three practice/race weekends and put about 12 5s lipo packs thru the truggy. Continues to impress with great handling and speed. The 120 degree Smart Diff ramps and two .15mm springs seems to have reduced the front tire ballooning issue. I have zero issues with the electronics. The fit and finish of the Losi kit is a little less than perfect, pulled one shock end off. It appeared to be over tigthened from the factory. Another thing I noticed is the shock end does not seem to have as deep a thread as my Kyosho shock end did. Tore all the shocks apart an found one of the rear shocks had a stripped screw holding the piston partially on (from the factory). Since those longer shafts are impossible to find, I bought a 2-56 tap and retapped the shaft. One axle/hub pin was found to be broken and the stock front rims rub big time on the suspension arms. Kingheadz rear carrier is working great (larger bearing). But no major breakage and the drivetrain is still tight. Overall I am very happy with the Losi truggy, conversion kit and MMM combo.

[Shark413]

Took the center Smart diff apart to check. It had plenty of grease, the grease was still semi-clear and the gears, ramps, etc. still looked good. Have three race weekends on the diff. I have a Tekin T8 2000kv motor on the way and I will try that with my MMM ESC in a sensorless mode to see how it compares to the MMM 2200kv motor.

Thanks for the update. Have you had any of the steering woes I've been having with mine?

[Shark413]

Originally Posted by Electric Dave

Thanks for the update. Have you had any of the steering woes I've been having with mine?

Dave, no problems at all with my steering. I am using the stock 2.0 spring with the adjuster all the way down then one turn up. I am using the Losi optional aluminum steering arm and a Hobbico CS-170 servo (300oz of torque). Sounds like your EPA is set, so I agree it could be the plastic parts binding and not giving. When I was setting up my steering I could see the saver activate when I cranked the steering over (before I adjusted the EPA).

I just rec'd the 1.0 plastic parts today. I can already see it looks much better than mine, I really think I just got one in my 2.0 truck which wasn't molded properly. I should know more after racing tomorrow.