1s esc from castle

Originally Posted by rchippie

FASTXR
I use lipo as well . I just use the 4 cell gtb because it fits my car in the middle behind the battery & in FR of the motor . I also noticed some of the oval guys were removing the case & just using heat shrink like the BK'S did .

Ah the 4 cell version of the GTB, I miss read what you said earlier, makes sense that would be a nice light setup and cheaper than buying the 6 cell version.

[rchippie]

Originally Posted by FastXR

Ah the 4 cell version of the GTB, I miss read what you said earlier, makes sense that would be a nice light setup and cheaper than buying the 6 cell version.

Open your eys jk . With out the heat sink of the gtb it fits great.

Brian i agree with you about the whining .

But sinice i started this thread about a castle 1s esc. It would be great if we could keep it on topic . I started a WGT thread , so we can move our talks over there .

Yes we will be releasing a limited amount of 1 cell specific Mamba Max Pro's with the next production run. If there is enough of a demand we will make more in the future. They will come with solder posts instead of motor wires and there will be no fan.

How do I get in on that limted amount?

[BrianG]

Interesting. Just curious, what mods/steps are needed to turn a regular MMPro into a 1s version? Not that I plan to, just would be nice to know (and yes, I know it voids the warranty).

Of course, you probably won't want to divulge this to avoid bogus warranty claims...

[rchippie]

Originally Posted by castlemike

Yes we will be releasing a limited amount of 1 cell specific Mamba Max Pro's with the next production run. If there is enough of a demand we will make more in the future. They will come with solder posts instead of motor wires and there will be no fan.

Is it possible to pre order the 1s esc or do i have to have my friends hobby shop pre order one ?. He is a authorized castle dealer in tampa fl .

[Pdelcast]

Originally Posted by BrianG

Interesting. Just curious, what mods/steps are needed to turn a regular MMPro into a 1s version? Not that I plan to, just would be nice to know (and yes, I know it voids the warranty).

Of course, you probably won't want to divulge this to avoid bogus warranty claims...

(Suffering from a little jet lag here in China -- been awake since 4:00am...)

It involves removing the buck converter (BEC) from the board, so that it can be powered by an external 6V battery for the ESC and servos.

Without removing the buck converter, the external battery will allow current to flow from the RX battery to the main 1-cell battery - - not good...

[Pdelcast]

Originally Posted by rchippie

Is it possible to pre order the 1s esc or do i have to have my friends hobby shop pre order one ?. He is a authorized castle dealer in tampa fl .

Should be able to do either. However, you (and your dealer) will have to wait until we have all the part numbers in the system -- you can't order until that is done.

Thanx!

[rchippie]

Originally Posted by Pdelcast

Should be able to do either. However, you (and your dealer) will have to wait until we have all the part numbers in the system -- you can't order until that is done.

Thanx!

Is one better to do that the other ?. There were alot of the MM pro's at minnreg this weekend. This race is a club level race put on by mike boylan . The oval guys were using them the most from what i saw .

[snellemin]

I want solder post on my current MMpro. Any chance of sending me a set?

Originally Posted by Pdelcast

Should be able to do either. However, you (and your dealer) will have to wait until we have all the part numbers in the system -- you can't order until that is done.

Thanx!

Will it be available for purchase thru your web site Patrick, or do I need special connections?

[What's_nitro?]

Originally Posted by ta_man

I don't think it is Rds(on), I think it is C.H.E.A.T. mode.

Well CHEAT mode advances the timing, right? That causes the motor to draw huge amounts of current compared to normal timing, right? Low Rds(on) allows more current to flow and for that current to rise more quickly, right?

Haha, yeah I know we're both right...

[ta_man]

Originally Posted by BrianG

Well, I read about 7 pages of that thread before I got tired of the general whining. Man, some racers are such whining p*ssies! Sorry, but it's true. This is a hobby and meant for relaxation isn't it? Where did they lose grip with reality?

Anyway, from what I gather, they are removing the regulator (not clear if it's the UBEC or some other regulator IC - probably linear due to the dropout voltage), flashing some special 1s software, and fiddling with settings.

Some things I see that are wrong but most don't seem to have the intelligence to think of it (or maybe just so worked up with their stupid debating):

- Instead of a receiver pack, use an DE AnyVolt micro to step up the 1s to whatever they want for the receiver/servo. Weighs a lot less and the 1.2A rating should be adequate for their use. Maybe add a capacitor to the output to help cope with the current spikes.

- Measuring output voltage at the motor wires with a meter is meaningless, even with a true RMS meter. The output of these things is square wave, not sine wave, which is what RMS is supposed to measure. The best way I can think of (other than using an o-scope) to see how much voltage is being output to the motor would be to put it in brushed mode, add a ~470uF capacitor at the output with a ~100 ohm bleeder resistor, then measure DC voltage. I say brushed mode because the voltage at the wires won't switch polarity as long as you stay in the forward range. In BL mode, the wires are omnipolar depending on which coil is being fired. The capacitor simply filters the square wave to a smoother DC signal that any meter could measure. The resistor is just there to bleed off any momentary voltage spikes, if any. And to get a true comparison, they should measure the battery with the same meter to get a "calibration" reading.

Yes, the oval racer community is really whining about this. They are sooo offended that you can pick up a tenth or so with a speedo.

Not everyone uses a receiver pack. Novak makes a booster module that steps up the voltage, but it also incorporates a cutoff so you don't dump the battery too far while practicing. Some people don't waht the extra wiring involved so they use receiver packs.

I couldn't beleive the guy tried to measure the output voltage with a multi-meter on AC.

Originally Posted by What's_nitro?

Well CHEAT mode advances the timing, right? That causes the motor to draw huge amounts of current compared to normal timing, right? Low Rds(on) allows more current to flow and for that current to rise more quickly, right?

Haha, yeah I know we're both right...

Good point, but I don't think a 13.5 Novak can draw the huge amounts of current you are talking about. I run one of these cars and the average current draw for a 5 minute run (flat out - full throttle all the way) is only 20 amps.

[ta_man]

Originally Posted by castlemike

Yes we will be releasing a limited amount of 1 cell specific Mamba Max Pro's with the next production run. If there is enough of a demand we will make more in the future. They will come with solder posts instead of motor wires and there will be no fan.

I want one (or two).

[J57ltr]

Originally Posted by BrianG

Well, I read about 7 pages of that thread before I got tired of the general whining. Man, some racers are such whining p*ssies! Sorry, but it's true. This is a hobby and meant for relaxation isn't it? Where did they lose grip with reality?

Anyway, from what I gather, they are removing the regulator (not clear if it's the UBEC or some other regulator IC - probably linear due to the dropout voltage), flashing some special 1s software, and fiddling with settings.

Some things I see that are wrong but most don't seem to have the intelligence to think of it (or maybe just so worked up with their stupid debating):

- Instead of a receiver pack, use an DE AnyVolt micro to step up the 1s to whatever they want for the receiver/servo. Weighs a lot less and the 1.2A rating should be adequate for their use. Maybe add a capacitor to the output to help cope with the current spikes.

- Measuring output voltage at the motor wires with a meter is meaningless, even with a true RMS meter. The output of these things is square wave, not sine wave, which is what RMS is supposed to measure. The best way I can think of (other than using an o-scope) to see how much voltage is being output to the motor would be to put it in brushed mode, add a ~470uF capacitor at the output with a ~100 ohm bleeder resistor, then measure DC voltage. I say brushed mode because the voltage at the wires won't switch polarity as long as you stay in the forward range. In BL mode, the wires are omnipolar depending on which coil is being fired. The capacitor simply filters the square wave to a smoother DC signal that any meter could measure. The resistor is just there to bleed off any momentary voltage spikes, if any. And to get a true comparison, they should measure the battery with the same meter to get a "calibration" reading.

I was looking at the Oscope in my garage yesterday and decided to hook it up to to my speed control. The output phase to phase is actually a pretty good looking sine wave with just a little distortion (not the waveform but noise on the waveform). When you look at a phase referenced to battery negative the top of the wave is slightly concave. I think phase to phase, using a meter would show an accurate RMS value. I was wondering if a lower Kv motor might look different but then my wife made me put up Xmas lights so...I didn't get to try a lot of the things I wanted to and I am out of town until Wed. Then I leave again on Thurs.

The test setup I used was:
MM and 7700Kv
2S2P A123 just about dead
OLD BK 10Mhz dual trace O-scope
Used my radio and just set the throttle trim so I could adjust the scope.

Jeff