Crt ?

[rchippie]

Originally Posted by BrianG

Sounds good to me - nothing looks bad. I just want to see it finished; that's the true test. :)

A little off-topic, but have you figured out your buggy delimna, or are you going to scrap it to do the truggy?

The mugen is on hold for know that im getting the truggy LOL:005: . I might make it nitro again .

[BrianG]

Nitro? What's that? Oh, I know - you must want a slower buggy. ;)

[rchippie]

Originally Posted by BrianG

Nitro? What's that? Oh, I know - you must want a slower buggy. ;)

LOL:005:

[rchippie]

For those that have a CRT or anyone else. What are your opinion' on battery lay out ?. I have two 2s2p packs, i was thinking about one pack on each side or would it be better to put both packs together so they are the size of a 4s pack on one side ?..

My E-CRT has been through three revisions. I'll save you the long story and say this:

1.) NO WAY to make it work without a motor mount like Mikes (something with the motor and diff on the same metal!) I had a 2 pc and it was a nightmare.

2.) Hot Bodies Ring & Pinion help with gearing. Currently I've got the HB R&P on the Diffs and the Kyosho 46T Spur mating up with a 10T Centrury Pinion all running on 4s...I'm currently using one of those mystery XLT-1 Motors which I think is somewhere around a 6XL or 7XL.

3.) I've had the batteries in both the one large block and the side by side setups. I prefer the side by side...the truck feels more balanced.

Here is a photo of my current E-CRT...

[Serum]

Looks like a true racer to me!

Remember to shoot pics once the schulze tries to become liquid..

Ha...you know, I have had plenty of trouble with the Schulze but this year it's been running much better (it was factory serviced over the winter) The TrakPower's are new and I ran for a new record this weekend, about 20 mins at fast practice pace with no thermal! I would LOVE to replace it but until the MMM or R1MT ships it will stay right there...you can't see the holes in the body which basically blow air right on it (hence it's ultra high mount) - I'd rather finish than gain a small amout of lower CG.

DM

[rchippie]

Originally Posted by MacII

My E-CRT has been through three revisions. I'll save you the long story and say this:

1.) NO WAY to make it work without a motor mount like Mikes (something with the motor and diff on the same metal!) I had a 2 pc and it was a nightmare.

2.) Hot Bodies Ring & Pinion help with gearing. Currently I've got the HB R&P on the Diffs and the Kyosho 46T Spur mating up with a 10T Centrury Pinion all running on 4s...I'm currently using one of those mystery XLT-1 Motors which I think is somewhere around a 6XL or 7XL.

3.) I've had the batteries in both the one large block and the side by side setups. I prefer the side by side...the truck feels more balanced.

Here is a photo of my current E-CRT...

Mac thank's for your repliy, your battery layout is what i was looking for. I plan on ordering mikes truggy mount, because im going to use the stock spur & start with a 16t pinion. Acordding to brians calucator that should get me around 32mph.

Differential Ratio: 3.3076923076923075
Transmission Ratio: 1
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 62
Pinion Tooth Count: 16
Total Voltage: 14.8
Motor KV: 1853
Tire Diameter (inches): 5.5
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 60
Motor coil Ω: 0.0092
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 3.88 : 1
Total Ratio: 12.81731 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 17.28 inches (438.88mm)
Total Motor Speed: 26401.54 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 33.7 MPH (54.14km/h)
Effective Speed Rate: 2.28mph/V (3.66kmh/V)
Effective KV Value: 1783.89
__________________

16T sounds very high to me. Back when I was running the steel spur and stock CRT Diffs I was trying to get as small a pinion as I could find. I see an old order from Mike for 10T-13T. I was running the 10 (yikes). Perhaps it was b/c my motor was too hot...I'd likely suggest you start at 13T and go up or down from there...

[rchippie]

Originally Posted by MacII

16T sounds very high to me. Back when I was running the steel spur and stock CRT Diffs I was trying to get as small a pinion as I could find. I see an old order from Mike for 10T-13T. I was running the 10 (yikes). Perhaps it was b/c my motor was too hot...I'd likely suggest you start at 13T and go up or down from there...

i will be using a 9XL for the motor. I have a 13t pinion. Be sure to look at the chart above.

Here are the stats with a 13t pinion. They dont look to bad .

Differential Ratio: 3.3076923076923075
Transmission Ratio: 1
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 62
Pinion Tooth Count: 13
Total Voltage: 14.8
Motor KV: 1853
Tire Diameter (inches): 5.5
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 60
Motor coil Ω: 0.0092
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 4.77 : 1
Total Ratio: 15.77515 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 17.28 inches (438.88mm)
Total Motor Speed: 26401.54 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 27.38 MPH (43.99km/h)
Effective Speed Rate: 1.85mph/V (2.97kmh/V)
Effective KV Value: 1783.89

No harm in trying what you have before you plunk down any $$. If the 13 feels way off, you know a 16 may be more what you need. If it's close try a 14 or 15. I'm pretty sure when I first tried my CRT I bought a 15 and a 20! I thought I'd need the speed, settled down with a 10...Much of it also depends on where you are using it. Often, crazy speed on a track isn't as valuable as instant accel...try, experiment and above all, enjoy!

DM

[rchippie]

Originally Posted by MacII

No harm in trying what you have before you plunk down any $$. If the 13 feels way off, you know a 16 may be more what you need. If it's close try a 14 or 15. I'm pretty sure when I first tried my CRT I bought a 15 and a 20! I thought I'd need the speed, settled down with a 10...Much of it also depends on where you are using it. Often, crazy speed on a track isn't as valuable as instant accel...try, experiment and above all, enjoy!

DM

Very true :027: i would at least like two pinions so i have a choice at different tracks. Are the chassis stiffiners on the side , if so do they really work ?.

Yes, they are. You know how RC is, often times you are at the track and someone's "day job" is something exciting. There is a machinist who comes to my local track. When the CRT was eating pinions 1 per 2 runs (seriously, but the one piece mount and plastic spur has fixed that) he saw that flex in my mount was likely the problem. He gave me these two strips and I put one on each side. The truck certainly feels more rigid to me but I don't really know - for the slight weight I figure it's good insurance.

DM

[rchippie]

Originally Posted by MacII

Yes, they are. You know how RC is, often times you are at the track and someone's "day job" is something exciting. There is a machinist who comes to my local track. When the CRT was eating pinions 1 per 2 runs (seriously, but the one piece mount and plastic spur has fixed that) he saw that flex in my mount was likely the problem. He gave me these two strips and I put one on each side. The truck certainly feels more rigid to me but I don't really know - for the slight weight I figure it's good insurance.

DM

How does it feel when you hold the truck by each end & try ti flex it ?.How thick are they ?.

Mac when you fliped your diff around using the stock spur did you have to mod the chassis ?.

It seems to me that they basically move the flex point away from the center and push it out a bit closer to where the F&R assembly bolt up to the chassis. Stiffer - but essentially transfers flex somewhere else. Flex has not been an issue for me since the change to a 1 piece m/mount. The flipped diff as a rev-3 change and by then I was already using the 46T...

DM