My Neu Maxx is almost done

[suicideneil]

Tis none too shabby. One thing I will suggest is make sure screws holding the drive cups on the tranny & diffs are threadlocked to heck, or better still use the stock traxxas screw/pin thingy- I find it a bit more solid in that it locks the cups to the output shafts. You will also need lots of threadloc on those too.

[mkrusedc]

Originally Posted by suicideneil

Tis none too shabby. One thing I will suggest is make sure screws holding the drive cups on the tranny & diffs are threadlocked to heck, or better still use the stock traxxas screw/pin thingy- I find it a bit more solid in that it locks the cups to the output shafts. You will also need lots of threadloc on those too.

Thanks for the comments. I already have them threadlocked. I lost a few before w/ Titans and 14 cells

[aqwut]

I'm glad you're happy with the poles dude... :)

if you really like the power poles.. you can get the 45 Amp bars from robotmarketplace.com.. that's where I get a lot of my stuff..

robot combat uses the really "BIG" pole connectors... :)

this would be worth the upgrade.. Just tryin' to help you out dude.
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/mark...onnectors.html
45 Amp PowerPole Extra Contacts

[What's_nitro?]

Have you thought about the FlexTek suspension? From a strengh-to-weight standpoint you can't get much better than titanium! They shouldn't weigh much more (if any more) than the RPM arms.

[mkrusedc]

Originally Posted by What's_nitro?

Have you thought about the FlexTek suspension? From a strengh-to-weight standpoint you can't get much better than titanium! They shouldn't weigh much more (if any more) than the RPM arms.

Sounds like just what I would want. Got a link?

Never mind. I got it. What about a titanum chassis? Does anyone make one?

Edit: Ouch almost $300 bucks. I just spent almost that much on an MGM controller. I think an extened chassis and stronger diffs first. Thanks for the advice. Maybe I can talk my wife into them for my bithday in February.

[mkrusedc]

Thanks. I'll check when I get home.

[VintageMA]

Sorry, my bad - I didn't remember the setting right off the top of my head.

'Forward to Brak to Reverse' is the one that will slam into reverse on you.

The softer handling one with the reverse delay is 'Proportional w/ Reverse Lockout'. This is the one with the 2 second delay return to neutral before allowing reverse setting. This is the better setting to use if you want reverse. You only reverse when bashing to get out of a pickle and with this setting you will not get reverse unless you really want it.

[mkrusedc]

Thanks that is the one I was using, Forward to brake to reverse. Even at 20% of brake it was still flipping. I'll try the proportional w/ reverse lockout tonight.

[VintageMA]

That'll probably fix your problem. You might want to bump the brakes up to 50% until you find the right setting when you make the change - just so you actually have some brakes.

[mkrusedc]

Hopefully GOOD BYE and GOOD RIDDANCE to MM cogging. I just got my TMM 16018 in the mail. Beefy compared to the MM. I can't wait to install...........

[lxmuff]

What's the latest?

Originally Posted by mkrusedc

Hopefully GOOD BYE and GOOD RIDDANCE to MM cogging. I just got my TMM 16018 in the mail. Beefy compared to the MM. I can't wait to install...........

[mkrusedc]

Here it is. I just finished the install. Now to program it.........

[jnev]

Looks good. Let us know the programming is? Hope it runs well fro you.

[mkrusedc]

I'll tweak the programming tomorrow and check temps. So far the inital test runs were very smooth with zero cogging.

[mkrusedc]

I finally got a chance to run my NeuMaxx. Bashed for about 35 minutes on the New Orleans levee. 20 minutes into it the tires were still balooning. . It ran very smooth without any cogging.

Temps were:
90F ambient
117.6F esc
128.2F motor

The only damage was 3 lost body clips and a mounting screw for one of my shocks stripped out of the arm hole.

I'll try to post another threads with my first attempt at vids.