Mamba Max Tweaks and Mods Continued

[DrKnow65]

Cool (literally :) it should be easy enough to find an aluminum heatsink for my setup. Of course I have found some promising copper PC heatsinks I would just have to cut to size... and the e-mail I sent to a heatsink mfg to inquire about cost for something custom. Guess I'll give it a few days.

Speaking of heatsinks I have hopes for a replacement end bell (MM 5700kv) that would cool the motor too but I suppose I should go start another thread for that so we can keep to the "MM tweaks and mods" here.

[BrianG]

Yeah, if I don't have a heatsink I can hack, I usually look around for something that will work. Sometimes, computer liquidation stores will have P2 heatsinks which usually cut up kinda nice and are fairly low-profile. Also, electronics surplus places usually have sinks as well.

Cooling the motor would be better done by using a heatsink that goes on the can part. Fairly cheap clip-on styles can be found on eBay.

[DrKnow65]

Opened an new thread for the motor cooling... fit issues with the xxxt tranny.
I'll start looking for a p2 heatsink, no surplus around here but I have ebay open in another window right now ;)

Originally Posted by DrKnow65

1) Is there a way to move/extend the data port to get it to point up (or out the same side at the motor leads, thinking of the original unit)?

Well you can't move it but you can program with the Castle link.
http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...stle_link.html

[DrKnow65]

I've got the castle link. It;s just that if I turn the boards vertical with the motor leads coming out the top the data port will be pointing straight down. No big loss realy, it will stay dirt free that way.

Originally Posted by DrKnow65

I've got the castle link. It;s just that if I turn the boards vertical with the motor leads coming out the top the data port will be pointing straight down. No big loss realy, it will stay dirt free that way.

Right but the Castle link uses the servo plug to program. I think all the brushless Castle creations products and BEC can be programed with the link. I've never tried in on a Mamba but it should work.

[DrKnow65]

Ohhhh.... now I get it, like my CC BEC. that cable I do not have yet but it's not expensive. Thanks a bunch, I'll look into it.

[DrKnow65]

Here are the photo's of the boards. I will post more as the project progresses.






You can see better photo's at http://imageevent.com/drknow65/rccarstuff

[Serum]

About the programming port; you should be able to move to to any place you want; just use shielded cable and a chassis mountable USB port. That should not be a problem. But since it works with the old-school programmer, why bother?

btw; for some odd reason the images aren't working. The link to your site does work however.

[DrKnow65]

I don't get it with the pictures, they worked for a few hours then stopped.

I'll use the castle link to tune the esc as I have to get one to set the voltage on the CC BEC anyway. Besides it's a good oppertunity to buy something I need from the RCM store to support this site, which in my opinion has a value all it's own.

I was pondering the "wind tunnel" setup for the esc boards (actually made a 3d model out of folded paper to set in the car--- I'm how old? hehe) it occured to me that I wouldn't get any cooling air flow on the channels of the heat sink that are pointed directly at the hub of the fan.

Do you think a mesh screen say 4mm from the fan would difuse the flow enough to keep the coverage even?
Mabe if it was concaved (funnel shaped) with the center cut out- say the same diameter as the fan hub? Any ideas on how to difuse a 25x25x10mm fan in the shortest length possible without excessivley restricting flow would be welcome at this point.

Also are there caps available that will do the same job as the 3 330uF 35v caps but take up less space? I could also see the caps restricting flow but I don't think it would keep the "wind tunnel" from working. Just curious...

[BrianG]

Don't know about the other questions, but the caps are pretty much standard size. You don't want to go down in either voltage or capacitance value. As a matter of fact, some people add more caps (usually on the power input wires as close to the ESC as possible) to improve performance and to reduce stress on the existing caps.

[DrKnow65]

There's no super porcelin capacitor gizmo's? I understand about the capacity and voltage ( as per GriffenRU's posts) and the solution I have in mind now is to run 3 220uF caps on both sides of the power board (440uF per leg) laid back to parallel the heat sinks. Just figured if there were more options...

[BrianG]

Well, you can use smaller ones, just more of them. Capacitance value is additive. Two 330uF caps (660uF total) is the same as three 220uF caps. It's actually better to use more caps as it spreads the heat out a bit and each cap doesn't have to work as hard. As long as you meet or exceed the original total capacitance value, you're ok. Unless you are like ZeroPointBug who decides to solder a bazillion caps on his ESC.

[DrKnow65]

I do plan to solder two 470uF caps to the steering and esc power wires, but that's to help keep voltage and EMI in check.

Then there's the three 1800uF caps I'm putting on the esc power wires on the opposite side of the chassis (more as something useful to help balance out the weight of the esc, extra heatsink, and fan combo). I'm going to mount the reciever, CC BEC, and 4S DPM opposite the esc too... Starting to think I may need to get 1/8th scale springs for my XXXT.
Mabey me and ZPB need to go to a caps anaymous meeting ;)

[DrKnow65]

WTF?!?!? my pic's are working again??? wish I knew how to keep them going.

I'm looking into thermally conductive padding right now to protect the MaxAmps 8000hv that finally showed up today.