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  (#31)
cabking
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10.01.2005, 07:36 PM

yeah they are 3racing rims.
there not bad, I havn't managed to wreck them yet.
which is more than I can say for the proline plastic ones. :D
   
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  (#32)
MaxxBashers
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10.24.2005, 08:03 PM

Well, I finally got this thing done enough to run. I finished up the last couple items on Friday night and spent the better part of Saturday running at the camp ground we were at. All I can say is WOW. It is definately everything I thought it was going to be. Its about the same size as a MGT and runs like a stadium truck. I couldn't believe the power this thing has. Extremely quick and nimble for how big it is. Handles better than any truck I have owned. Definately worth the money I have put into it. Here are some pics of how it ended up and it next to my BL XXX-4.







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  (#33)
Sylvester
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10.24.2005, 08:06 PM

Thats a nice truck, what diffs are you running, also, what runtime did you get? Thats an awesome looking machine :)


The problem with nitro's these days are that they arent brushless... LOL

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  (#34)
MaxxBashers
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10.24.2005, 08:19 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Sylvester
Thats a nice truck, what diffs are you running, also, what runtime did you get? Thats an awesome looking machine :)
Thanks, I really like the way it came out to. I was a little nervous about half way into it. Was hoping it would be worth it in the end and it was. The diffs have Integy blue aluminum diff cases w/ collars. Front diff has Maximizer ultra diff set-up and rear has the Maximizer diff gears
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  (#35)
Serum
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10.25.2005, 12:34 PM

Great looking truck Maxxbashers!

What are those blue square thingys between the controller and the motor? what plugs are they?
   
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  (#36)
MaxxBashers
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10.29.2005, 03:05 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Serum
Great looking truck Maxxbashers!

What are those blue square thingys between the controller and the motor? what plugs are they?
They are aluminum electrical splicers I got from the local hardware store. I couldn't find anyother connectors to use. What is the usual run time on these things? I am running matched GP3300 w/14 cells. My gearing is 20/70. Seems to be chewing through the batteries pretty quickly. Is it the connectors between the controller and the motor that I am loosing it at? I love this truck, but the run times are terrible. I don't expect it to be the same as nitro, but I do expect it to be worth the trouble of walking outside to run it. I am charging everything now and then going to time it to see exactly what run time I am getting, but it seems like its less than 5 minutes before it starts dying.
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  (#37)
squeeforever
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10.29.2005, 03:48 PM

what kinda temps are you getting from the batteries, esc, and motor? i would definately get rid of those connectors. your gearing might also be part of the problem.
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  (#38)
Basketti
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10.29.2005, 07:43 PM

Nice truck!! how do you like the power of brushless compared to nitro?

what charger are you using for your batteries?

Last edited by Basketti; 10.29.2005 at 07:46 PM.
   
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  (#39)
MaxxBashers
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10.29.2005, 09:12 PM

I just recharged it with a different charger and ran it again. My running temps were about 115 F on the controller and 100-120 F on the motor. Batteries were like at 80F. I ran it for 8 minutes strong and then I noticed my rear end wasn't getting power and it was in front wheel drive. A minute later it stopped all together. I stripped something out in the tranny. Will pull it apart tonight and see what I did. I noticed I have a little slop in my rear diff how it sits. I can move the case up and down a little. I will have to shim the brace. Other than that, it did last longer and ran strong through the whole time.
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  (#40)
squeeforever
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10.29.2005, 10:04 PM

i would gear it up then. also, i think you blew your rear diff. not sure if you have ever torn into a e-maxx tranny but its a solid output shaft so if you stripped something in the tranny it would not move at all.
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  (#41)
MaxxBashers
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10.29.2005, 10:12 PM

I just pulled it apart and I stripped the white plastic gear in the middle. I checked the rear diff and it needs to be shimmed. It was pulled forward and away from the ring gear and wasn't engaging. It doesn't look like my rear cvd is long enough. I have one off a MGT I will try. I had to scoot it forward to get it to sit in the grooves, but looks like it was to much. I will shim it back where it belongs and figure something else out.
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  (#42)
MaxxBashers
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10.29.2005, 10:16 PM

I found 3 spare idler gears in my box so I traded that one out. With gearing up, I only have the 20t pinion. Should I try a 72t spur or a 66?
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  (#43)
squeeforever
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10.29.2005, 10:59 PM

66. that will give it a lower gear ratio. 3.3 as apossed to 3.6 with the 72.

Last edited by squeeforever; 10.29.2005 at 11:02 PM.
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  (#44)
coolhandcountry
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10.30.2005, 08:34 AM

You should swap the plastic center gears out for the metal idlers mike has. It wil make your tranny a lot tougher.


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  (#45)
MaxxBashers
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11.06.2005, 02:47 AM

I will probably order one of the metal gears if I keep it. Project is basically done so it might be time to sell and start the next one. What should I ask for if I do sell it? I know what I have into it, but don't know how much the BL's hold their value. It is all basically new. The chassis and the tranny are the only thing that weren't new when I put it together.
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