4wd Corr/Pro-4 Truck REDESIGN POSTED 12/23/09 - Page 3 - RC-Monster Forums

MetalMan · 11.19.2008, 06:00 PM

In 3-D the upper links are about 2.75in. apart from each other, and the lower links are about 1/2in. apart at the blue circles. These angles do affect the lengths of the links (for example it makes the lower links seem shorter and I had to account for this in the above pictures), but the angles have more to do with what happens as the axle articulates.

That 0.05in. in wheelbase change is very minimal, and I'm not worried about it for now. If I did want to correct it, however, it would require quite a bit of trial and error in working with the length of the links and their positioning on the chassis. The current suspension geometry took me about an hour to come up with, and that was with fixed upper and lower link lengths!

And BTW, this is more than an idea

. Thanks for the compliments.

MetalMan · 11.30.2008, 04:13 AM

Success! I maidened the truck today: first impression was that this motor is very loud! The tones it emits due to the ESC attracted quite some attention, but once rolling smoothly this truck is rather quiet.

Specifications:
-entire polycarbonate chassis, heated and bent with a propane torch. The two side plates were made together to ensure exact precision.
-HPI MT2 18SS front end with aluminum differential housing, aluminum knuckles, carbon fiber shock tower, and GS Storm 1/8 buggy front shocks
-HPI Wheely King rear axle with RC4WD straight-axle adapters, custom c-clamps for mounting of the 4-link suspension, STRC widener kit, and Ofna Super Shocks
-front body mount was cut from 3/8" thick polycarbonate and the posts are cut-down Slash front body posts
-rear body posts are for the Duratrax Nitro Quake
-the FLM aluminum bellcrank for the Rustler was fitted, along with 5x8mm bearings
-Airtronics 357 servo and Kimbrough Gas Truck servo saver
-any colored standoff/post on this truck was made by Axial (these things are awesome!)
-clear standoffs/posts are 1/8" ID and 3/8" OD polycarbonate tube tapped to 4mm
-front bumper mount is an aftermarket piece made to allow the MT2 to accept a Revo bumper, so I fitted a Slayer bumper which required minimal spacing
-the rear bumper is from a Slash, but the bottom mount was bent with a propane torch and the top mount was flipped
-lower links are T-Maxx or Revo steel steering turnbuckles, upper links are Revo steel pushrods
-the driveshafts are cut-down Maxx driveshafts
-Slash nerf bars
-STRC 14mm hex conversion for the Rustler/Stampede, with the wider hexes in the rear
-Slayer wheels/tires all around
-Proline Hardcorr body
-MM ESC straight from CC with CCBEC
-initially using 2x 3s 2100mah Impulse 16C packs in parallel
-2x Neu 4s 2100mah 30C packs just came in, and those will be in parallel for 4s 4200mah 30C

If I missed anything, just ask

.

This truck has interesting handling thus far - the rear shock oil (45wt) is too thick, and the rear needs a sway bar BADLY. Right now when I pitch the truck the chassis leans, and leans for too long after pointing the truck in a straight line. This is no doubt the result of the shock oil not allowing for a quick enough weight transfer, and will be fixed. In the soon-to-come pictures you will notice the torn up overspray film on the body, please ignore that

. And now, for the build pictures:

(Note that these are older)

MetalMan · 11.30.2008, 04:15 AM

MetalMan · 11.30.2008, 04:16 AM

Quick comparison of the width between front and rear (almost exactly the same):

MetalMan · 11.30.2008, 04:18 AM

With 2x Impulse 3s 2100mah in parallel:

2x Neu 4s 2100mah 30C to be in parallel:

MetalMan · 11.30.2008, 04:19 AM

Underside!

Proline Hardcorr (to be painted):

TruckBasher · 04:24 AM

The rear suspension looks almost the same as the real thing

...

even got the fan

Travis, truly a masterpiece....hope to see the video...

MetalMan · 04:25 AM

Still need to make the rear sway bar, figure out how to keep the batteries from sliding forward/backward, work on ESC settings, paint the body, tweak the suspension, wire up the two fans on the body (both were pulled from MMMs BTW), and some other minor stuff. Just FYI, anything which on this truck is merely a film covering up clear polycarbonate. It WILL come off - in time. I just want to keep this truck as scratch-free as possible

. Advice, comments, whatever is appreciated!

Quote:

Originally Posted by TruckBasher