150amps hobbywing esc in fire in my house!!!

[Takedown]

Its just a phase. If and when the firmware is updated that bug should be long gone. I mean take for instance the mmm, it had two versions before the v3 because of excessive esc failures. I definately think hobbywing got off to a much better start...

[superek4]

Originally Posted by Takedown

Its just a phase. If and when the firmware is updated that bug should be long gone. I mean take for instance the mmm, it had two versions before the v3 because of excessive esc failures. I definately think hobbywing got off to a much better start...

yes totally agree:)

[hemiblas]

Originally Posted by Takedown

Its just a phase. If and when the firmware is updated that bug should be long gone. I mean take for instance the mmm, it had two versions before the v3 because of excessive esc failures. I definately think hobbywing got off to a much better start...

Cant argue with that.

[kostaktinos_mt]

thought i would put my 0.02 in the jar...

both the 80a and the 150a have already gone through 2 firmware revisions through the last month; the last one was released about 3 days ago... unfortunately the firmware release notes are literally useless as to what they fix/change/improve...

personally, i never had a problem with most of my hws [1x 80a, 1x 150a, 1x35a, 1x60a, 1x xerun120], while 3 of them [80a, xerun120, 35a] have literally been through hell and back [i even -purposely- tortured my 30$ ezrun35a in a 1/8 buggy with a 3s lipo and a maxximum to see when it will fry; it didn`t; don`t ask me 'how and why' though]... i did however manage to kill a xerun60 recently, but it was my fault [was deliberately pumping 4s in a '3s max' esc]...

...by no means should one consider any esc as undestructible or flawless however...

[littlegiant]

I did notice excessive current draw using the hw80A on my e-savage. It used to be drawing 81A peak. But now it is all in the 120A region. And run time is noticeably shorter. My batteries are still giving the same capacity so I don't think its the batteries. Maybe I should try a higher timing? Using the nxt setting from zero now. I guess my esc is very close to getting burnt huh. :D

Will update u guys on the current draw over a high timing during this weekend. Till then.

[jsr]

If you're drawing 50% more current, I'd definitely switch back to the timing you were using before, or at least one that draws less current. Honestly, I don't see huge differences in performance when I adjust timing on the HW or CC ESCs, so I would run the one that gives me the longest runtime.

[hemiblas]

Littlegiant,
You may want to check your motor. 120A peak is pretty high. If you are geared for around 40mph on 4S it should be around 80 plus or minus depending on the motor combo. It could mean your motor is going bad and drawing too much current.

could be batteries too if they are having trouble holding voltage then the current spikes higher. I dont think higher timing is the answer though.

[littlegiant]

Originally Posted by jsr

If you're drawing 50% more current, I'd definitely switch back to the timing you were using before, or at least one that draws less current. Honestly, I don't see huge differences in performance when I adjust timing on the HW or CC ESCs, so I would run the one that gives me the longest runtime.

Opps sorry i din't make it clear enough. I meant 81A peak on the Mamba max on 4S (low timing, not lowest) compared to the 120A peak on the HW80A at setting 2 (on 4S as well). And oh same gearing as well.

It doesn't make sense considering my truck has the same performance using 2 different escs and so I was thinking if increasing the timing on the hw80a will make any difference.

[littlegiant]

Originally Posted by hemiblas

Littlegiant,
You may want to check your motor. 120A peak is pretty high. If you are geared for around 40mph on 4S it should be around 80 plus or minus depending on the motor combo. It could mean your motor is going bad and drawing too much current.

could be batteries too if they are having trouble holding voltage then the current spikes higher. I dont think higher timing is the answer though.

My lipos are good. They are holding up. They aren't even breaking a sweat with the current drawn by the motor. The peak only increased that much after I've switched over to a HW80A. I don't see any decline in motor power. On the contrary, my e-savage seems to be running faster. Batt runtime is lower though.

One thing I've realised is that my feigao 5407L 3511kv at 4s is rotating at almost 52k rpm. But it has been holding up for the past 6 mths or so. The power seems to be as good as new. Maybe I've got a good one? The motor temp used to be around 80C. But after a chassis mod, the temp dropped to 61C. The entire chassis now acts as a heatsink for the motor which explains the the drop in motor temp. And oh the chassis + GP arms mod did increase the weight of my e-savage by close to 200g. It now weighs slightly above 4.1Kg. But a mere 200g increment in weight shouldn't be seeing a 50% increase in peak current right?

[jsr]

No, I don't think it's the weight. It might be the motor drawing more current as someone mentioned above. I'd adjust the timing to see if it makes a different. Adjusting timing does change current draw, but I wouldn't think that much. It may be a combination of things all coming together. 52krpm is really high for a Feigao.

[littlegiant]

Originally Posted by jsr

No, I don't think it's the weight. It might be the motor drawing more current as someone mentioned above. I'd adjust the timing to see if it makes a different. Adjusting timing does change current draw, but I wouldn't think that much. It may be a combination of things all coming together. 52krpm is really high for a Feigao.

What about your HW80A setup? How much current is it drawing? I've checked for binding but there seems to be none. While checking for binding, one thing I've come to realised is that tyres with firmer/harder foam inserts take less effort to rotate. It kind of makes sense seeing why tyres of real cars are all inflated to a certain pressure for max fuel efficiency.

[jsr]

I don't have a datalogger so I can't tell what current is being drawn on my 80A. I know it doesn't get above 85F (29.5C) and runs really cool. I'm hitting about 40mph, but really fast. I think I need taller gearing. My motor only gets to 105F doing lots of speed runs. It would run cooler on a track probably.
Firmer tires are easier to rotate as the contact patch is reduced. There's always a compromise. I'm more familiar with supsension and tire tuning on real cars. While most of those concepts apply in the scale world, I'm not sure if all do.

[littlegiant]

Originally Posted by jsr

I don't have a datalogger so I can't tell what current is being drawn on my 80A. I know it doesn't get above 85F (29.5C) and runs really cool. I'm hitting about 40mph, but really fast. I think I need taller gearing. My motor only gets to 105F doing lots of speed runs. It would run cooler on a track probably.
Firmer tires are easier to rotate as the contact patch is reduced. There's always a compromise. I'm more familiar with supsension and tire tuning on real cars. While most of those concepts apply in the scale world, I'm not sure if all do.

I see. For sure my setup is drawing too much current. I really wish for a longer run time on my 4500mah batts.

[littlegiant]

Guys When testing the HW80A with a different timing, it failed.

Prior to failure, I was getting a peak of 93.43A at 4S at 7.5 degree timing vs 127A peak at 3.75 degree timing.

I was running the truck without any problem at 3.75 degree. And upon changing the timing, I could feel that the acceleration was significantly reduced, top speed reduced and motor/esc temp reduced. The ESC failed after several speed passes. While doing the last speed run, the truck slowed down to a crawl for no reason. It still moves but very slow. I had no accident with the truck. I was simply doing speed runs. The ESC did not overheat. Temp should be around 50 C. I've measured the esc at 53degrees before but this time, it feels cooler and so I estimate it to be around 50C at the time of failure. I didn't know what happened to my truck. The motor seems to be alrite and so I opened the esc to take a look.

Several of the mosfets are cracked or exploded as seen in the pictures. Broken particles from the mosfets can be seen on the PCB. Now I need to get a replacement. Damn. This is only the 2nd week of owning the ESC. Now I am afraid to get these HW escs. To the ppl here, don't play around with the timing.

[superek4]

dun play with the punch n timing for now till the bug is solved, btw I hv not gotten back my replacement 150amp esc from china yet. It's so troublesome