Questions about Castle repair kits

[kingdomracer]

While I'm at it why not a:
1512/2Y 5-6s (Buggy)
1515/2Y 7-8s (Truggy and MT's)
I'm sure a lot of folks would love to run HV/low kv setups and now with the XL ESC there should be motors for it in Y winds (without needing a Baja).
I already posted the need for a 1515/1.5Y too for a truggy on 5-6s.
And to be honest I think it would help sell more of the Mamba XL if we have motors that we can use it in. Like our Truggies and MT's.

[suicideneil]

Here's a good question- I heard the traxxas 1515 motors have a rear endbell with a hole in it so you can see the shaft and bearing, is it possible to use the same design on the regular motors so that the rear bearing can be poked out if it needs to be replaced?
I havent had any issues myself ( touch wood ), but by all accounts if the rear bearing fails then its more or less impossible to remove- a sticker over the hole wouldnt be such a bad thing in my eyes if it makes maintenance easier. ABEC 3 bearings would be cool too vs the standard ABEC 1 affairs that are currently used still unless they've been changed recently..

Long live my/the MMM V1

[Pdelcast]

Originally Posted by suicideneil

Here's a good question- I heard the traxxas 1515 motors have a rear endbell with a hole in it so you can see the shaft and bearing, is it possible to use the same design on the regular motors so that the rear bearing can be poked out if it needs to be replaced?
I havent had any issues myself ( touch wood ), but by all accounts if the rear bearing fails then its more or less impossible to remove- a sticker over the hole wouldnt be such a bad thing in my eyes if it makes maintenance easier. ABEC 3 bearings would be cool too vs the standard ABEC 1 affairs that are currently used still unless they've been changed recently..

Long live my/the MMM V1

Hi Neil,

The early 1515s were like that - - and we had a lot of complaints from people that sand was getting past the sticker and into the bearing. Or they would remove the sticker, and then dust/sand would get into the bearing. Or the sticker would fall off, and dust/sand would get into the bearing. So we just sealed it -- it's actually more expensive to manufacture the way it is now.

The rear bearing fails very rarely, because it is under very little stress, and we haven't had any complaints about it since we covered the rear end. :)

Oh- and to replace the rear bearing, you drill a small hole in the end-bell to drive out the bearing...

[suicideneil]

Fair enough then

I do have one gripe though; the fins on my 1518s have rather sharp edges where they've been machined to expose the bare metal underneath the green anodizing, not normally a problem unless you are sliding the motor on an emaxx mount ( to set the mesh ) and grip it a bit too tight- needs a light rub with a emery cloth or something just to take the edge off, so to speak.

[Pdelcast]

Originally Posted by suicideneil

Fair enough then

I do have one gripe though; the fins on my 1518s have rather sharp edges where they've been machined to expose the bare metal underneath the green anodizing, not normally a problem unless you are sliding the motor on an emaxx mount ( to set the mesh ) and grip it a bit too tight- needs a light rub with a emery cloth or something just to take the edge off, so to speak.

Yeah, and the HPI grenade style motors (we call it "the lacerator") are even worse ... but they love it!

I'll talk to China about putting a .2mm round on the corners of the fins. I don't know how much more it will cost, but I'll ask.

[ta_man]

Originally Posted by Pdelcast

Yeah, and the HPI grenade style motors (we call it "the lacerator") are even worse ... but they love it!

I'll talk to China about putting a .2mm round on the corners of the fins. I don't know how much more it will cost, but I'll ask.

Here's a second opinion: I like the edges just the way they are.

[suicideneil]

Masochist^.

It doesnt bother me so much now I know how to handle the motor, Im just thinking about some moronic parent trying to sue castle because their precious spawn hurt their fingers whilst working on the truck.

You could just insert a piece of paper into the box that says 'handle motor with caution, sharp corners are present- please grip motor with gloves or a piece of cloth to prevent damage to your finger tips'. That way they cant moan about it..

[j.f.s]

Bumping this thread as I'm eager to get a repair kit for my 1518. I'm prone to wrecking my stuff and having spare parts beforehand is always a good idea! :)

[nuz69]

You can buy a 1515 repair kit, the bearings are the same (good luck for breaking them ) and you can't really broke the rotor unless you demagnet it.

[j.f.s]

Ah, thanks for the info nuz69!

It's mainly the bearings I'm after. I'm convinced I'll manage to ruin them knowing the luck I usually have with my stuff.

[slimthelineman]

I heard at rcx that repair kits were coming for the neu 14xx series four pole motors. Anyone heard or know when we might see these? I got a 1406-4600kv that's dyin to be used in my lcg slash.

[niklass]

I'm wondering about the size of the bearings in the 1512 motor, I'd like to have some spare bearings in my toolbox.

Mostly because I have a very good bearing shop nearby and it would be nice not to pay shipping for something I can buy locally.

[nuz69]

5x16x5mm

So when are these rebuild kits coming out. I want to run my 1717 on 8S and want to have a spare rotor on hand.

On another note, I haven't seen the Castle techs around here much lately. I hope they are working on something new and not just being lazy.

[nuz69]

They are working on new motors with 1.5Y wound (i hope so ! )...