Quark durability test

[RC-Monster Mike]

I have a seperate unit in the works for buggies and truggies - trying to make it a drop in design with an integrated motor mount - it is a much trickier design, but should work excellent and provide exceptional performance and a low Cg, while leaving plenty of room for batteries. The g-maxx design is simple and effective, and will be the first "available" option.

[squeeforever]

Nick, I'm pretty sure it will not work.

[Nick]

I find it difficult trying to imagine how it would fit or can't.

Is it the motor mount that would restrict it from fitting? Looks to me the unit will fit fine, just mounting the motor. Is the mount built into the actual unit?

[squeeforever]

Th rear motor moun is one piece, but it mounts to a certain spot on the Gorillamaxx chassis that is intended for the Gorillamaxx motor mount. So I'm almost positive it won't fit.

[Nick]

Is the green circle in the picture below where the mount screws into the X-Brace?





Also, I've drawn 2 red lines, would it not be possible to have the mount part of the actual unit frame? So the motor could go directly in the centre of the chassis (flip motor).... not sure about strength or if it could reach though? Might be an idea for the Truggy design (or for my Lightning :D).

[coolhandcountry]

I thought some thing about like that to. The only thing I would see is if the motor hit the top shaft and gear.

[RC-Monster Mike]

The design in the picture could easily mount to a truggy with some standoffs or "lifts" to attach it to the chassis. The motor mount is the real problem. There simply isn't enough room to clear the motor if you mount it on top(same reason it won't work in the G2R), particularly with the larger diameter motors like the Neu. By the time the input gears are changed around to accomodate the motor mounted above, the pur gear will drag the diff out drive or you are stuck with a huge pinion - it simply won't work without an idler gear. To mount it to the rear like in my g-maxx, you would need a third piece, as well as a place to mount it on the truck and it starts to become a cluster****, if you know what I mean(yes, the green circle is where the motor mount attaches). The truggy version is a completely different design, but is the identical concept(slipper and a differential). This concept was a relatively quick and easy way to test the concept, with a side benefit of taking the g-maxx to the next track performance level. Now that I know the concept works(quite well, I might add), I can expand it to other vehicles and conversions, etc. to make these vehicles more reliable and track worthy.

[Nick]

I looked at my UE Lightning chassis, no holes for the Gorilla mount... loads of horizontal holes though for weight reduction.

The other problem with the lightning the top plate is like a "V" shape, so you can't slot a mount down anyway. :(

Really look forward to you developing one to handle different chassises.

I wonder about the BEC related specs.
The only information I found was this:
BEC Voltage: 5V/5A (Input 8.4V, Peak 8A)

Hope this doesn't mean that the internal BEC can only be used at 8,4V battery voltage?

[neweuser]

You use a UBEC with it when running high voltage so the internal would be "disconnected".

[Serum]

Yes, correct.
The internal BEC can not be used on higher voltages.

Did anyone try to use the internal bec with more than 8 cells?

I've used an external bec before, never liked that too much..

[jhautz]

Don't do it. This is what happens.


I did it by accident. When I got my first one, I wanted to test it out so I plugged it up to a 3s pack not even thinking that it would be to much.

Everything still works...including the BEC, but it looks ugly. Had I not realized it right away, who knows what would have hapened. This happened just sitting on the bench. Wasn't even running it and it overheated the BEC.

[Serum]

A picture tells more than a thousant words..

the speedo still works i presume?

[Nick]

Everything still works...including the BEC

:eek: