Which Lehner

[neweuser]

Originally Posted by glassdoctor

What buggy are you doing? You can fit a Kyosho gear on most of them. Plastic is a very good idea... and it's way cheaper and easier than using hardened gears at $20+ a pop. Some have still destroyed the hardened ones with BL. I never ran a steel/steel gear.

I always forget about the 4mm thing with the Lehner. Hmmm score a point for Neu. Besides being the same as most other motors, the 5mm gears are much easier and cheaper to get.

And don't forget that with the Neu, you can use 5.5mm connectors.

[Procharged5.0]

Good point!

[neweuser]

Originally Posted by Procharged5.0

Good point!

I'm just partial to the 5.5's. I cannot stand the quality of the 3.5mm connectors. They wear fast and have a low quality like to them.

[Procharged5.0]

The 5.5's have substance! They have a larger contact area and are stronger. i like them too. I'll be using them on my NEU when I install it.

[neweuser]

Originally Posted by Procharged5.0

The 5.5's have substance! They have a larger contact area and are stronger. i like them too. I'll be using them on my NEU when I install it.

Not to stay on the hi jack here, but Pro-very easy to install on the Neu too. Took me less than 5 min for all of them to install the males. Just make sure you scuff the inside of the connectors for a for sure connection! I tipped my motor upside down with all three connectors loosely so the wires were pushing into the connectors and soldered each one in a row.

[Procharged5.0]

Thanks Troy.

This is going into a Sportwerks Turmoil. I'm figuring that it's going to fall into the 8-9 lb category when all is said and done. I'm doing away with the mechanical brakes and am going with a single maxamps 4S2P 6Ah battery pack.

With the 4mm shaft diameter of the Lehners, I think that the Neu is a no brainer for me. Just about all of the helicopter sites sell module 1.0 5mm gears. And they can be had very cheaply. Heck, if a plain ole steel pinion lasts me a day of running, I'll be satisfied.

As for the spur, I did find a Kyosho gear that fits the screw pattern, but it doesn't match up in terms of everything else, like the accomodation for the bearings, etc. I'll have to keep looking or just go with another diff that is compatible with the Kyosho spur gears. Right now, I'm just anxious to get the whole thing up and running.

Since I've settled on the Neu motor, I suppose the final question is...1512 or 1515? The 1512 would have less torque, but that might not be a bad thing on a dirt track, as long as it still has sufficient torque to clear the triple that follows that particular turn. Quite frankly, I like the idea that the 1512 is around $40 less expensive than the 1515. This project is getting expensive. I just dropped $600 in batteries and that doesn't include the extra balancer and charger that I got so that I could have two charging at once. I don't like to wait. I haven't even gotten into what I've spent on 7075 stock to make sure that I'd have everything that I needed. If I didn't already have the MM controller, I wouldn't even be thinking about this motor.

On the other hand, at this point, $40 is just another drop in the bucket. :)

So...I'm hoping to be able to answer the $64,000 question. Is the 1515 overkill? Should I just go with the 1512? If I go with the 2000kv version, my max rpms will be under 30,000. Is that optimal for efficiency? Would going with the 1515 at 2200 rpm be better just for the sake of being in that rpm zone?

Geez, this just seems like a vicious circle.

BTW, it is nice having a good soldering iron/station. I use a Metcal MX500. With a 700 degree broad chisel tip, it makes short work of just about anything. I don't usually get cold solder joints with this thing.

[Procharged5.0]

My vote is for the 1515/1Y.

Better Kv for use with the 4s2p combo. Enough torque to do what you need and the rest you can tweak in the MM software.

[neweuser]

Originally Posted by AAngel

With the 4mm shaft diameter of the Lehners, I think that the Neu is a no brainer for me. Just about all of the helicopter sites sell module 1.0 5mm gears. And they can be had very cheaply. Heck, if a plain ole steel pinion lasts me a day of running, I'll be satisfied.

It won't last 40 min IMO.

Originally Posted by AAngel

As for the spur, I did find a Kyosho gear that fits the screw pattern, but it doesn't match up in terms of everything else, like the accomodation for the bearings, etc. I'll have to keep looking or just go with another diff that is compatible with the Kyosho spur gears. Right now, I'm just anxious to get the whole thing up and running.

Mike may be able to help you out with an adaptor of some sort if needed. Not too familiar with buggies and truggies.

Originally Posted by AAngel

So...I'm hoping to be able to answer the $64,000 question. Is the 1515 overkill? Should I just go with the 1512? If I go with the 2000kv version, my max rpms will be under 30,000. Is that optimal for efficiency? Would going with the 1515 at 2200 rpm be better just for the sake of being in that rpm zone?

2200 RPM would give you better efficiency I would think.

[Procharged5.0]

HE HE HE! beat you to the post! JK!

[neweuser]

Originally Posted by AAngel

BTW, it is nice having a good soldering iron/station. I use a Metcal MX500. With a 700 degree broad chisel tip, it makes short work of just about anything. I don't usually get cold solder joints with this thing.

What is a good indication of a "cold" solder joint? Just curious. I probably know, but want to make sure! LOL

[neweuser]

Originally Posted by Procharged5.0

HE HE HE! beat you to the post! JK!

Yeah, I had to do some editing! LOL, can you tell?:005:

[Procharged5.0]

Newe,

A "Cold Solder Joint" is cloudy looking and dull. May even have a rough surface texture. A well executed solder joint is shiny and smooth. Pictures would be helpful I know, but is that at all helpful ?

[BrianG]

Also, two wires connected via a cold solder joint can be yanked apart fairly easily. With a good solder joint, the wire will break before the joint does.