200A, 14S lipos ESC to come!!!

[aqwut]

for conforming compound.. you could use high quality 100% silicone, and mix with lighter fluid untill it feels like pancake batter, but no thinner than this or it will never dry... you'll figure something out.. :D

[lutach]

Originally Posted by aqwut

for conforming compound.. you could use high quality 100% silicone, and mix with lighter fluid untill it feels like pancake batter, but no thinner than this or it will never dry... you'll figure something out.. :D

I was going to make something like the M.Troniks, but I want to get to the components in case they fail, so I ruled that out. What I might do is use a conformal coating that comes in spray bottles, make a nice case out of Polycarbonate and add small fans on each side. After I receive the first controller, I'll take some dimensions and make a custom low profile liquid cooled heatsink. One thing I will do for the radiator will be to add TEC devices and low profile fans to cool the liquid down. I know a few places that makes small 5vdc water pumps. In the future, I want to make my own R/C trucks and buggies and I will also try to offer a ARTR or a RTR versions of them. I have all the drawings for the chassis and motor mounts. I found a place that will machine everything for $45HR, but I will see if Mike can help me out on this.

[steveo]

hey put a pic of that esc on rumrunnerracing.com(fe boat forum) guys are always looking for big power like that

[lutach]

Originally Posted by steveo

hey put a pic of that esc on rumrunnerracing.com(fe boat forum) guys are always looking for big power like that

It's there.

[BrianG]

I like this ESC as well despite the large size. However, the only thing that would make me hesitate to purchase something like this would be the relatively small supply and possible difficulty in obtaining parts for service down the road. Of course, if it was around the same price as the MM, then it wouldn't be an issue. ;)

No matter what, I like where you're going with this (except the fan) and am curious how well this progresses.

[lutach]

The engineer will send me a 100A controller that handles 7S lipos. He said he didn't have the FETs for a 10S controller. I also posted thin information in rumrunnerracing.com and one member there mentioned he has a true 150A continuous controller and he said mine will only do 95A. Here is the link: http://www.rumrunnerracing.com/fefor...ad.php?t=23246 please look at the 17th and 18th post. I might not be as smart as that guy, but I know the copper traces and FETs will never be able to put out 150A of continuous current. It would also take a really complex cooling system to keep a FET cool at 150A continuous duty. Like I said in that thread, I don't want to sound rude, but I'm doing something for us car guys and I can't have someone ruin this right now.

[snellemin]

There is always an expert somewhere that swears to know more by just looking at picture.

[GriffinRU]

Originally Posted by lutach

The engineer will send me a 100A controller that handles 7S lipos. He said he didn't have the FETs for a 10S controller. I also posted thin information in rumrunnerracing.com and one member there mentioned he has a true 150A continuous controller and he said mine will only do 95A. Here is the link: http://www.rumrunnerracing.com/fefor...ad.php?t=23246 please look at the 17th and 18th post. I might not be as smart as that guy, but I know the copper traces and FETs will never be able to put out 150A of continuous current. It would also take a really complex cooling system to keep a FET cool at 150A continuous duty. Like I said in that thread, I don't want to sound rude, but I'm doing something for us car guys and I can't have someone ruin this right now.

Interesting discussion down there...
Serious gaps in calculating and estimating FET's performance and do not worry about PCB traces, for serious currents adding copper bars solves the problem.

Most FET packages (TO220/262...) not rated to deliver what die itself can.

[BrianG]

Is there a reason why FETs don't have an electrically insulated metal "insert" to help cool them? Adding a heatsink to the epoxy package definitely helps, but it IS plastic after all.

[lutach]

Originally Posted by GriffinRU

Interesting discussion down there...
Serious gaps in calculating and estimating FET's performance and do not worry about PCB traces, for serious currents adding copper bars solves the problem.

Most FET packages (TO220/262...) not rated to deliver what die itself can.

Do you think that guy is for real with his true 150A continuous controller? What he basically said is that my controller is a 95A controller. I'll just have to wait and put out the numbers.

[lutach]

Originally Posted by BrianG

Is there a reason why FETs don't have an electrically insulated metal "insert" to help cool them? Adding a heatsink to the epoxy package definitely helps, but it IS plastic after all.

I know some companies that makes MOSFETs with metal casing, but it is mainly used in military applications and it can be somewhat expansive.

[GriffinRU]

Originally Posted by BrianG

Is there a reason why FETs don't have an electrically insulated metal "insert" to help cool them? Adding a heatsink to the epoxy package definitely helps, but it IS plastic after all.

You do not want to do that if you plan to sink lots of Amps. Current design is great for given applications and it is much easier to deal with insulation of the tabs outside the package, while utilize FET's substrate as one connector and a heatsink at the same time.
There are 7 pin Dpak packages and direct-on Fet packages which are designed to maximize heat and current transfer.
The best way is to combine high-speed heatsinking (Copper) and low-speed (Alum), then ceramic can be utilized as long as it is very thin. And I think that is the idea behind all packages.

[rchippie]

The best way is to combine high-speed heatsinking (Copper) and low-speed (Alum), then ceramic can be utilized as long as it is very thin. And I think that is the idea behind all packages.

So when we mod the quark are we better off using a copper or aluminum heat spreader ?. And would it better to have a heat sink made from copper also ?. Thank's

[BrianG]

Since these ESCs don't produce a TON of heat, Al is fine IMO. I was just curious about adding metal tabs because it seems like these ESCs are getting large for high current. I figured if say, 10-12 FETs were intergrated into one long package with adequate cooling and terminals, the size could be reduced and manufacturing simplified.

Also, Al is lighter, cheaper, easier to obtain, and easier to work on.

[GriffinRU]

Originally Posted by rchippie

The best way is to combine high-speed heatsinking (Copper) and low-speed (Alum), then ceramic can be utilized as long as it is very thin. And I think that is the idea behind all packages.

So when we mod the quark are we better off using a copper or aluminum heat spreader ?. And would it better to have a heat sink made from copper also ?. Thank's

I am working with Mike on Brass-Copper heatsink for Quark, updates will come pretty soon :)

Originally Posted by lutach

Do you think that guy is for real with his true 150A continuous controller? What he basically said is that my controller is a 95A controller. I'll just have to wait and put out the numbers.

I haven't seen nor touched his controller, so I do not know yet.
I thought we did the estimate with you before.