Brushless Jammin CRT Project

[coolhandcountry]

The limit is batteries. You can have an awesome motor with cheap batteries and it still suck. 60 mph is not real bad to reach. Don't get me wrong it does take some power and money. At minimum I would run a xl. A 1950 would do better. I think the 22 series may be what you looking for. Consider a 2240 10t.

[nl12]

Originally Posted by coolhandcountry

The limit is batteries. You can have an awesome motor with cheap batteries and it still suck. 60 mph is not real bad to reach. Don't get me wrong it does take some power and money. At minimum I would run a xl. A 1950 would do better. I think the 22 series may be what you looking for. Consider a 2240 10t.

I am going to use lipos, 6 cell was the original plan I may go to 8 cell lipo if needed (space permiting). 2240 10t has 1480kv 22.2 volts would only take the motor to 32856 rpm probably 30000 rpm realistically, would 8 or 9t be better for 22.2 volts? Would a 1700kv 22 series on 22.2v pull too many amps do I need to go 10 turn and higher voltage if I want a 22 series motor?

[Gustav]

Yeah those are the shafts,actually they look pretty strong,4mm and hard anodised,i thought they come stock,not sure.They should be fine really,though no transmission part is ever really safe with a 22 series around.:027:

Edit;going to 8s would only add about 200g and add 1cm ish to the pack height and bring the amps down.A 2240/11 or 12 on 8s would run 60mph with ease and run cool with long runtimes.i'd aim for between 35000 and 38000 max rpm.

[coolhandcountry]

Promod runs the 2240. I think he has like a12 turn with 8s lipo. I only have experence with the 2250. But the 2240 shouldn't be but so far behind the 2250. I wonder if it is more than i need. But then again I love raw power.

[nl12]

I am leaning towards the 2250 right now 5mm pinions are in stock right now and I ordered some; 1950 is a 4mm shaft. I am considering running 8 cell lipo although 6 is still more appealing to me. I hope the MGM 16024 is avalable soon so I can use it. I think I will mount the motor directly ontop of the spur with a L shaped motor plate attached where the brakes would have gone and attached to the chassis. I would also like to use a lehner motor mount like this

at the back of the motor to keep the mount from flexing.
I will make a custom center diff brace.

I do not know which lipos to use I was thinking about Hyperion Polyquest "Lite Storm" rated 20C 74A continous I dont know if these are good enough, I really dont want to get the wrong ones and I dont know a lot about lipos. I would like some that have a built in lvc, and have balancing taps, I have no idea what charger to get either.

[Gustav]

The 1950 comes with a 5mm shaft now,i have one.The other 19 series come with 4mm shaft i think unless you specify 1/8",my 1920 has a 4mm shaft.
You're right to support the rear of the motor,a must IMO with the heavier motors.You'll have to figure a way to adjust the height of the support for changing pinions.
My choice personally would be a 1950/10 or 11 on 8s.Same overall weight as a 2250 on 6s,but with more battery power available and lower current draw/longer runtimes.
If you go 22 series,2240 is overkill enough,the 2250 is excessive to say the least and the CRT is relatively light.

[coolhandcountry]

I am having a problem with spur gears with the 2250. I put a brand new one on it and it rolled 3 ft or 1meter. It tore all but 4 teeth off the spur. I am going to try some other spur gears now. I still have not got the cog straight but I will. The spur is not surviving now. The 2250 is down right a power house. I think the motor is going to spin if tires, rims or shafts do or not. It even spun the pinion on the motor shaft with a flat spot on it. Gustav is right on the 5mm shaft.

[nl12]

I am hoping with a lighter truck the gears will survive coolhand, my truck will be a lot lighter with lipos

[Serum]

I personally wouldn't make such a big step, from a mild power setup to real power setup, you need to know what speed you want to reach, and like Country says, 55-60 mph can be reached with a 1950. (which is quite a bit lighter as well)

[nl12]

Originally Posted by Serum

I personally wouldn't make such a big step, from a mild power setup to real power setup, you need to know what speed you want to reach, and like Country says, 55-60 mph can be reached with a 1950. (which is quite a bit lighter as well)

I half agree, but I can buy a 2250 for a little bit more money now compared to upgrading and buying a 2250 after I have already bought a 1950. The weight is an issue though; I may use 8s lipo afterall in my mind it is 1950 vs 2250 on 8s lipo. I still need to decide which brand lipos to go with so I can estimate a rtr weight. The 22 series is more uncommon and that draws me to it as well. I will seriously consider your experienced advice.
Thanks

with eather motor it is going to be an awesome truck but if you have the money go with the 2250.

[coolhandcountry]

That is the reason I suggested a 2240. It is the 22 sereis but a touch shorter. You can run it on 8s lipo to. Well just get a video of this thing.

[Serum]

Yeah, there are steps between the 1950 and the 2250.

You need to know yourself, a 2250 IS big AND powerfull, that is the reason for me taking one, and i am used to a plettenberg bigmaxximum with 16 cells and a 7XL on 16.

Tue, the step in money isn't too big, but it just eats/abuses your drivetrain like nothing else. with power comes extra costs. as simple as that.

You need to consider what you want. it's up to you from here i guess.

[nl12]

Would the 2250 10 turn work well on 8s lipo it is 1184kv or would it be better to go with a little hotter wind? I guess the better question is where is the 2250's rpm sweet spot that I should shoot for?

[Serum]

aiming for the 65-70 mph?