Novak HV4400 and 7XL BL Sensored System...

[coolhandcountry]

ARe you running the same gear on each motor? If so what would happen if you ran different sizes?

[GriffinRU]

Originally Posted by nitrostarter

WHen I got my 18120, it was on boat programming and it has no brakes. Its not bad once I got used to it. My output gears are still going strong. I only trashed one because my Rx pack was dying and It wasn't shifting completely.

I wasn't recommending this, just throwing it out there.

I thought you did that with Novak's HV4400 ESC...

Rtsbasic
Nice work, I don't see any real disadvantage to sensored as a technology, the products just aren't there yet though (for more than 6 cells anyway). Looks like you really know your stuff, although it is quite a bit of dead weight to be carrying.

Is that a T-Maxx chassis? How hard is it to transplant one onto an Emaxx? I guess the front and rears are mostly the same, its just the tranny and servo's i'm concerned about. I'm on too much of a budget to spend $200 on a chassis but T-Maxx ones are nice and cheap

Advantage is huge in starting torque department. Well, extra 200g for now. Later will be less (only sensor part) and Feigao motors sooner or later will be available.

It is E-Maxx chassis
But I've done T-Maxx chassis conversions earlier; it is quite simple .

coolhandcountry
ARe you running the same gear on each motor? If so what would happen if you ran different sizes?

Same number of teeth is a must, otherwise synchronization would be lost. But you can play a little bit with timing (+/- tooth or more), I will put more info over weekend.

Artur

[Serum]

@rtsbasic;

did you see this flm chassis? it's nice and fair priced. it's meant for an e-maxx.

[GriffinRU]

Originally Posted by Serum

@rtsbasic;

did you see this flm chassis? it's nice and fair priced. it's meant for an e-maxx.

Yes, I saw it and almost bought it...
But once you tried REVO... E-Maxx is only a reminder of what was then :)

Build 4*4, 6*6 (in 2+4 and 2+2+2), 8*8 - T/E-Maxx is a great platform...

Artur

[GriffinRU]

Originally Posted by RC-Monster Mike

Artur,

Are you stripping the output gear in the tranny or the spur gear? If the output gear is stripping on hard brakes, replace the idler gear and you should be ok. Over time, the idlers develop a sharp back side, which cuts the outpur gear on hard brakes. Look at the idlers and see if the back of the teeth are sharp. A single speed also helps a lot.

After fixing Tranny with new gears and polishing sharp edges from idlers... now my CVD's are history.

Artur

[coolhandcountry]

What happened to the cvds? What kind where they? I have broke up a few with a 7xl.

[GriffinRU]

Originally Posted by coolhandcountry

What happened to the cvds? What kind where they? I have broke up a few with a 7xl.

http://cgi.ebay.com/RDLogics-CVD-6PC...QQcmdZViewItem

Artur

[coolhandcountry]

I have broke them. My brother had mip and broke them. I have yet to break the ue ones. Seem to be much stronger. The rd logics look nice and are nice with low power but the xl cans can break them.

[GriffinRU]

Sorry for delay,

To setup sensored HV controller to work with sensoreless motor you need to provide sensors feedback. In my case I choose to use brushless sensored motor which comes with HV system. (Later sensored BL motors should be available…)
Installation of both motors requires to accomplish that task, shaft connection would be done via spur gear and pinion gears (master and slave motors must have pinions with the same number of teeth).
Step by step:
- mount both motors to tranny mount
- connect motor wires together
- spin one motor shaft and check for slave shaft
In most cases it should be easy to match, if not get as close as you can.
- install spur gear
- connect with power meter 6 cells to ESC
- unsolder Novak's motor and solder New motor to Novak's ESC
- turn on power
- Push throttle until wheels start spinning or motor wires start moving (turn of ESC) forward and measure current (remember value).
- Reverse throttle, until the same parameters above, and measure current.
If forward and reverse currents equals each other then timing set correct and no further adjustments required. If not, then adjusting one tooth at a time, with measuring will help to find 0 degrees mark. Setting to zero degree mark is must if reverse option would be used and not if forward only, but less teeth on pinion fewer adjustments to timing can be made due to the Novak’s ESC automatic timing adjustment at middle RPM. Setting too aggressive can force motor to reverse…. Not really and not good, just reminder.

Now when 0 timing found you can mark both shafts, by putting ruler on both shafts and marking shaft with permanent marker or scratching it, whatever works to identify shafts relation. After that you can take setup apart and put back together without going through process described above again.

With 7XL and 12 cells I was able to make motor move in both directions with current draw as low as 0.6A. One tooth left-right with 18 teeth pinion can easily change this ration to 4A and 0.8A respectfully. So do not be scared, but be careful and watch for moving wires (not good).

Artur

P.S. Open for questions and help.

[coolhandcountry]

That sounds like a lot of work. I think it would be easier to wait on the sensored motors. They shouldn't be long. I think more companies will go sensored after a while.

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by GriffinRU

Sorry for delay,

To setup sensored HV controller to work with sensoreless motor you need to provide sensors feedback. In my case I choose to use brushless sensored motor which comes with HV system. (Later sensored BL motors should be available…)
Installation of both motors requires to accomplish that task, shaft connection would be done via spur gear and pinion gears (master and slave motors must have pinions with the same number of teeth).
Step by step:
- mount both motors to tranny mount
- connect motor wires together
- spin one motor shaft and check for slave shaft
In most cases it should be easy to match, if not get as close as you can.
- install spur gear
- connect with power meter 6 cells to ESC
- unsolder Novak's motor and solder New motor to Novak's ESC
- turn on power
- Push throttle until wheels start spinning or motor wires start moving (turn of ESC) forward and measure current (remember value).
- Reverse throttle, until the same parameters above, and measure current.
If forward and reverse currents equals each other then timing set correct and no further adjustments required. If not, then adjusting one tooth at a time, with measuring will help to find 0 degrees mark. Setting to zero degree mark is must if reverse option would be used and not if forward only, but less teeth on pinion fewer adjustments to timing can be made due to the Novak’s ESC automatic timing adjustment at middle RPM. Setting too aggressive can force motor to reverse…. Not really and not good, just reminder.

Now when 0 timing found you can mark both shafts, by putting ruler on both shafts and marking shaft with permanent marker or scratching it, whatever works to identify shafts relation. After that you can take setup apart and put back together without going through process described above again.

With 7XL and 12 cells I was able to make motor move in both directions with current draw as low as 0.6A. One tooth left-right with 18 teeth pinion can easily change this ration to 4A and 0.8A respectfully. So do not be scared, but be careful and watch for moving wires (not good).

Artur

P.S. Open for questions and help.

That sounds pretty straightforward. I wouldn't even thought about the timing, but it makes sense once you explain it. I was telling one of the guys at my LHS about what you did and he was pretty interested once I explained it to him a few times (wasn't getting it at first). Have you tried to pull the windings out of the slave motor to save a little bit of weight? Of course, you'd have to be careful not to wreck the hall-effect sensor...

[GriffinRU]

Originally Posted by BrianG

That sounds pretty straightforward. I wouldn't even thought about the timing, but it makes sense once you explain it. I was telling one of the guys at my LHS about what you did and he was pretty interested once I explained it to him a few times (wasn't getting it at first). Have you tried to pull the windings out of the slave motor to save a little bit of weight? Of course, you'd have to be careful not to wreck the hall-effect sensor...

Thank you, I was trying to put it that way ..:)

I ordered from E-Bay horizontally magnetazed neodym rings and will try to build custom sensor feedback. Taking HV4400 motor apart, I think is just waste of time. If you creative then use it as generator to keep your RX power pack happy :)

7XL on 12 cells just slow... and brakes need to be trimmed on TX side

I need to replace it with smaller motor (Hacker C50 14.4 is coming) and ditch 2 speed tranny :) (Personal opinion!)

Artur

P.S. Hey guys do I miss something? I run stock (shimmed) diffs and trashing CVD's... Doesn't sound right or ...

[squeeforever]

If im understanding you correctly, your trashing cvd's because there not the best in the world. There actually kind of weak. The RD Logic's are actually one of the weaker cvds. The MIP's should stand up to most power that most people will run, but I would recommend the UE's.

[coolhandcountry]

To me the mip seems no stronger than the rd logic. The ue are far better in my opinion.

[SpEEdyBL]

I think this was my idea...

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/s...d.php?t=184553

Now where are my royalties? (J/K):005: