On-road BL project - Page 4 - RC-Monster Forums

MetalMan · 07.23.2006, 07:58 PM

The sliders should be fine for BL power, especially with only 7.4v. I think they're the same sliders used on the Revo, so they should hold up.

Have you decided on a BL controller?

BrianG · 07.23.2006, 08:12 PM

The sliders are similar design, but much smaller. Although I suppose if the 3.3 works with them, BL should be fine.

As to the ESC; I was thinking the Mamba. It is small enough and provides all the features I'm looking for at a decent price. I'm just gonna wait until Mike has them in the store. If not the Mamba, then maybe a Quark 80B, but pricey when compared to the Mamba.

I still don't know about the motor though. These are the ones I'm looking at getting in order of highest liklihood of purchasing:

- Castle Creations 4600 or 5700. The price can't be beat!
- LMT 1920/6. Stupid price tag making me shy away despite the promises of utopic performance.
- Lehner Basic 5300. Eh, I don't like purple, but would deal to get better performance than a Wanderer.
- BK Wanderer 6S. Heat issues making me think twice.

squeeforever · 07.23.2006, 08:04 PM

Actually the sliders are smaller than the Revo ones. There the same style, but slightly smaller (about the size of a Maxx slider). Brian, the Traxxas cvd's and the MIP upgraded ball diff would be a nice upgrade as well as GTR hard anodized shock bodies and TiNi coated shock shafts with the little Traxxas shaft protectors, aluminum caster blocks, ect :p.

BrianG · 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by squeeforever

Actually the sliders are smaller than the Revo ones. There the same style, but slightly smaller (about the size of a Maxx slider). Brian, the Traxxas cvd's and the MIP upgraded ball diff would be a nice upgrade as well as GTR hard anodized shock bodies and TiNi coated shock shafts with the little Traxxas shaft protectors, aluminum caster blocks, ect :p.

Do you have a link for the upgraded diff? As far as shock bodies, I have a TiN set from my dismantled Revo (v1) that I could use, although I probably should change the oil. We'll see. I want to keep the weight to under 4 pounds. I do know I want to get the RPM bumper - I am a terrible driver. :frown:

Oh, and I want to get the tie bar that reduces the rear toe-in. 4 degrees is too much for me. I want 1 or 2 degrees, but am limited to as little as only 3 degrees.

Ozark-al · 07.23.2006, 08:29 PM

Sounds cool Brian, I would like to see it run when it gets finished.

Mike.L · 07.23.2006, 10:05 PM

so far its a great start brian, how many volts are you running on your motor?
is that 4 cell pack just for show? or you packing in 6 cell?

BrianG · 07.23.2006, 10:36 PM

Thanks. It's a 2s2p eMoli pack, so 7.4v. I was going to use 3s1p, but the current rating of those cells wasn't high enough (3Ah @ 10-15c). I only have 4 cells, so it was much easier going down to 2s and paralleling for higher current (60-90A) and double the runtime. Of course that means I'll need a motor with a kv rating between 4500 and 5500.

Mike.L · 07.23.2006, 10:54 PM

ok i see now, i was looking at the cells and was saying " thats not sub c" lol

MetalMan · 07.23.2006, 11:57 PM

I think you should go with the Mamba Max 4600 system. You could run 12 cells or 4s Lipo down the road if you were so inclined :004:.

squeeforever · 07.24.2006, 12:44 AM

I think the 1920 Lehner would be my choice with the Mamba Maxx controller.

BrianG · 07.24.2006, 01:29 AM

MetalMan; yeah, I've been taking a good look at the Mamba Max controller. I like the low internal resistance of 0.0003 ohms - won't heat up much. Not to mention the programming options.

Squee, that's what Mike said. Argg, but those LMTs are pricey for a cheap Jato. What are those CC motor equivalent to quality-wise and efficiency-wise (LMT, Lehner Basics, Wanderers, etc)?

So, it looks like I'm gonna get a motor (whatever thay may be) with a kv of ~4600. So, either the CC 4600, LMT 1920/7, or Lehner Basic 5000. No matter, it looks like it'll be a while before the CC stuff is readily available, which will give me time to scrape some cash together. In the meantime, I can work on the other parts of the Jato.

MetalMan · 07.24.2006, 09:32 AM

CC hasn't posted any sort of efficiency numbers for their motors, but the efficiency is definitely up there. The Lehner is most likely more efficient simply because of the segmented rotor.

BrianG · 07.25.2006, 11:38 PM

Well, I've decided on the 4600 system. The price is just too tempting to pass up. I can always get the 1920 later if I don't think the CC4600 is working for me. I just wish Mike would list it so I could at least enter a pre-order or something.

With the exception of the motor mount and a couple of small details, the hard part is done. The parts I posted earlier are painted black now and have the proper foam padding. It looks SWEET if I do say so myself. I don't know if I'll want to drive it! No new pictures though until it is fully done.

Thanks all for the suggestions. Sorry Mike, but I'm sure someone will pick up those 1920's (especially now you listed them :)).

BrianG · 07.29.2006, 06:51 PM

Got the steel CVD kit and installed it today. Looks nice, but what a PITA to install! You have to replace a set of spider gears and get a itty bitty c-clip on the end of the gear/output shaft - which was fun trying to do inside the deeper half of the diff. :mad:1

While I was at it, I put in some 50k diff fluid.

The Jato diff should be pretty sturdy. The flex found in most diff cups (which destroys those spiders) must be all but nonexistent since the ring gear acts to stiffen the walls keeping them from flexing.

squeeforever · 07:05 PM

Thats not to thick? Maybe you can use a Revo aluminum diff cup? The appear to be the same correct?