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GorillaMaxx360
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02.22.2007, 09:05 PM

Thanks man cant wait till it is done
   
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t-maxxracer32
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02.22.2007, 09:30 PM

haha i bet!! i couldnt imagine waiting a year!! but MAN will it be worth it!
   
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GorillaMaxx360
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Update - 04.14.2007, 04:56 PM

Hey guys watz up. Went to my local LHS yesterday and traded some cvds that i could not use for some sliders, I also picked up abunch of 3.3 stuff for my conversion. Anyway here is some new progress on my car.







What do you guys think? Any questions comments concerns

_BTW i did the revo axel stubs thing to allow sliders to work with HB diffs and it works good
   
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BlackedOutREVO
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04.14.2007, 05:00 PM

Sexy!!!!!!!!! Damn!!!!!!!!!!!!!
   
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sjcrss
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04.14.2007, 07:45 PM

looks real nice....also if you want to strip the anno off of your proline steering aluminum components.....just soak them in liquid plumber or drano...or even Pequa.....let them sit in a bowl with the stuff for several minutes....then it will start to bubble...then just swish parts around in solution until the anno comes off.......then when it is off...run it all under cool water...then polish with Mothers aluminum polish.....just a FYI is all


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Castle Creations-Neu 2200kv motor
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E-Revo 1/8 scale Hyper 7 CD
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...1&goto=newpost
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GorillaMaxx360
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04.14.2007, 08:13 PM

thanks
   
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ClodMaxx
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04.14.2007, 08:15 PM

it looks like he took the blue off the motor plate... how did you do that, gorillamaxx?

i've been sooooo close to pulling the trigger and getting those flextek arms. your shots are giving me an itchy trigger finger! :027:

very, very slick truck!


Xray XT8 (Neu powered) MMM on 5s
MD 500 scale heli - castle HV-45 on 3s
Eflite Blade 400 heli on 3s
   
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GorillaMaxx360
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04.14.2007, 08:30 PM

thanks. I used a wire brush and some sand paper to get off the anodizing. some blue does not bother me i just want it to be all contrasted not to silver, blue, red, black. mostly silver but a bit of everything eelse to make it look good. (P.S. Make your decision wisely-Not talking about arms- Just in general, before i looked at so many pics before i got my parts and that aided in my desision, but mine came to geather really well. But one thing you have to keep in mind is how things will look on different setups. For example the chassis looks hot on my car but it does not on other peoples)
   
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ClodMaxx
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04.14.2007, 08:40 PM

so you're saying those arms won't look hot on my truck? :005:

thanks for the advice. i'm a noob on this forum, but not a noob to the hobby. i have my share of UE, GA, titanium, lunsford, proline, hitec 5955, spektrum, matched SPC racing cell packs etc. on my truck. i've learned the hard way - long ago - that form does not alway follow function. my only mistake was the hv system - but i'm holding out for the MMM. it may not be a $3000+ setup, but it is far above stock.

i'll leave how my ride 'looks' to the custom airbrushed true fire lid i'll be making for it soon. :027:


Xray XT8 (Neu powered) MMM on 5s
MD 500 scale heli - castle HV-45 on 3s
Eflite Blade 400 heli on 3s
   
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GorillaMaxx360
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04.14.2007, 08:59 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by ClodMaxx
so you're saying those arms won't look hot on my truck? :005:
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClodMaxx
thanks for the advice. i'm a noob on this forum, but not a noob to the hobby. i have my share of UE, GA, titanium, lunsford, proline, hitec 5955, spektrum, matched SPC racing cell packs etc. on my truck. i've learned the hard way - long ago - that form does not alway follow function. my only mistake was the hv system - but i'm holding out for the MMM. it may not be a $3000+ setup, but it is far above stock.

i'll leave how my ride 'looks' to the custom airbrushed true fire lid i'll be making for it soon. :027:
NO but i am saying that i have bought things just becase they looked really good on someones else's setup and it did not look as cool on mine. So i decieded to go more for functionallity and goodness and those items turned out to look cool to. Not at all trying it wont look good just try not to get sucked in to buying something that looks increadably good just for that reason. BUT it is hard not to do, Thats all man just dont want you to be disapionted that is a lot of money involved.

Last edited by GorillaMaxx360; 04.14.2007 at 09:00 PM.
   
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GorillaMaxx360
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04.14.2007, 10:01 PM

I would get UE cvds if they extend them they might be weak, and that will not be good. you can also use sliders just as strong but way cheaper. (but requires some mods) you can get some longer turnbuckles here for front here for rear.

Last edited by GorillaMaxx360; 04.14.2007 at 10:03 PM.
   
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longer turnbuck
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overkill5000
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longer turnbuck - 04.15.2007, 09:26 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by GorillaMaxx360
I would get UE cvds if they extend them they might be weak, and that will not be good. you can also use sliders just as strong but way cheaper. (but requires some mods) you can get some longer turnbuckles here for front here for rear.



thanx do you know how much longer they are im looking for 1/4"more length???? front & rear...id actually like to start making my own parts with help of the local machine shop/metal shop!!Click image for larger version

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jnev
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04.15.2007, 02:30 AM

Your maxx looks so awesome!!:004: :004: That si a whole lot fo moeny invested in it, but it should all be worth it.. :027: What else is left to do with it or buy?


   
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GorillaMaxx360
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04.15.2007, 09:42 AM

am not exactally sure but 1/4 may work.
   
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GorillaMaxx360
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04.15.2007, 09:48 AM

here is my "what is needed left list"
X-Maxx Basher Project

1) Spektrum DX3.0 radio $150
2) Neu 1512 2d motor $240
3) RC Monster rear end bell cover for Neu motor $8
4) RC Monster heat sink for ESC $30
5) RC Monster steel idler $15
6) RC Monster 72mm dog-bone $12
7) RC Monster strobe kit $32
8) RC Monster 18t pinion $12
9) RC Monster Ubec $37
10) Maxx Amps 5000HV (2) 2s $180
11) Ice Charger $130
12) GorillaMaxx single speed conversion $75
13) Ofna 51t spur gear $8
14) Ofna Power Supply $100$
15) Proline Wabash, Masher Combo with 23mm hexes $101
16) Atomic Black Body With Flames $35
Total-1200
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