Need help with my G3-build - Page 7 - RC-Monster Forums

suicideneil · 12.05.2009, 08:45 PM

No where that I've looked has any flextek instock, havent for a long time by the looks of things due to the price- very expensive parts so only carry a very limited amount, ordered as needed pretty much.

Slipperential is nice, but it seems almost like the normal center diff does its job so well I wonder how much of a difference it would make really?

I wouldnt mind a CD myself, though that will require a complete redesign of my chassis rails, though given the GorillaMaxx stuff is more of less extinct too, that isnt such a bad thing really...

JoFreak · 12.05.2009, 08:59 PM

Well with the CD-mount from Mike the Slipperential should fit with minimum modifications if any. And there is a shop in Germany which still has some x-braces in stock, which would be the only part needing modifications for Slipperential. And the CD-mount doesn't need any modifications on the G3 chassis at all. So no problems with the G3-extinction here!

The difference I hope for is that I don't have to land my jumps with finger off the accelerator, which would make the car flip forwards due to the brake momentum of the motor. hope you know what I mean there, if not, just get a bigmaxximum (or any 4 pole motor as far as I know) and try to turn the shaft with your fingers...

Kcaz25 · 12.05.2009, 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoFreak

Well with the CD-mount from Mike the Slipperential should fit with minimum modifications if any. And there is a shop in Germany which still has some x-braces in stock, which would be the only part needing modifications for Slipperential. And the CD-mount doesn't need any modifications on the G3 chassis at all. So no problems with the G3-extinction here!

The difference I hope for is that I don't have to land my jumps with finger off the accelerator, which would make the car flip forwards due to the brake momentum of the motor. hope you know what I mean there, if not, just get a bigmaxximum (or any 4 pole motor as far as I know) and try to turn the shaft with your fingers...

Have you tried it? I bet its not as bad as you think. Neus are very hard to turn by hand as well.

JoFreak · 12.06.2009, 02:18 PM

I actually did, have you seen the picture of the bent upper a-arm on page 6?
That was part of the result

Together with the broken steering link and the badly bent lower left hinge pin and a destroyed bushing for the lower a-arm.

Ordered the 4 Turnigys today...
There are a lot of packages coming my way right now

And I made the first set of CF hinge pins for the front of my truck.
The other lower front hinge pin was bent as well (pain in the a** to get a bent hinge pin out of the FLM hybrid bulks), really hope the CF stuff is NOT going to bend but just break.
It's easy to replace and cheap to get, so better the CF hinge pins then, let's say... the flextec a-arms!

suicideneil · 12.07.2009, 03:04 PM

Yeah, the CF pins will just shatter/ snap into several small pieces that are easily removed- cheap insurance against broken/bent suspension parts indeed, though be sure to carry several spares

JoFreak · 07:03 PM

To say it with the words of the great philosopher Jeremy Clarkson:
POWEEEEEEEER

Still waiting for the motor from Castle and the MMM V3 and the GH steering (16 days now for the steering) from tower though...

edit: Just received a mail from Castle! The motor is on it's way

JoFreak · 12.10.2009, 05:56 PM

Stupid unnecessarily fat battery cables!
Hate them!
Why?
They're 8AWG, too fat for my traxxas high current connectors, and takes ages to get the solder liquid on them even with a 100W soldering iron.

10AWG would fit into the traxxas connectors without any problems, doesn't take as long to get soldered.

The difference?
With 6S the difference in wasted power with a current of 100A would be ~13W...

That's just not worth it, now I can see where I can get 10AWG cables, where I can get shrink wrap that fits and the right solder for that kind of soldering job.
Really am pi**ed off by this, all of a sudden those batteries aren't THAT cheap anymore.

Anyone got a source for all the needed parts? Especially cable and shrinkwrap? And a hint on what kind of solder to use?
As well: somebody got advice on how to change the battery cables? Never done that before...

Bondonutz · 12.10.2009, 06:00 PM

The wire and heat shrink is of good qaulity at HC
OR
Buy the wire direct from Castle and get the shrink at Radio Shack or Home Depot

JoFreak · 12.10.2009, 06:48 PM

Ok, found the wire.
And what size of shrinks would I need to get it properly reshrinked after the soldering?
I would say 50mm for the long side but what for the narrow sides 100mm?
Apart from that: HC is out of shrinks, that's just great...

But I just got a better idea since I don't want to wait another 2-3 weeks.
I will see if it works out the way I planned.

I would still apreciate every help on what solder to use and on how to do this.

Bondonutz · 12.10.2009, 07:26 PM

Silver solder/flux core. One of the best is Deans Brand. I buy the larger spools that can be found at HomeDepot or Shitshack.

MaxipadAmps has the a line of Lipo pack heat shrink also. Hate to say this but it's of excellent qaulity and I buy it myself. I have to have friends order it for me tho because somebody hates me over there and have canceled my orders refunded me and couldn't guess why ?

I didn't realize you needed the shrink for the exterior of the pack,I thought you were refering to the wire, sorry.
FYI, 24mm = 1 inch

JoFreak · 09:41 AM

Great!
Got my battery cables and the shrink today! For free, only shipping costs to pay

And my 1800kV castle-neu arrived today, together with the CC fan shroud for the motor (for 13$ I just took it, maybe I will use it or maybe not...).
Customs wanted 25€ but still a good price! And since there is no invoice on/in the package, I assume someone allready paid it, just found the packet lying on the stairs to my room

Now I need a bigger spur (thinking about slipperential again) gear/pinion, because the motor is to large in diameter and collides with two of the screw heads that hold the CD/motor mount together...

Still:
ESC has not arrived yet, new SR3100 receiver neither, and no alu steering as well...
Maybe I should just order hundreds of packages so that customs has no other choice than to process my deliveries

But i fear as long as I don't get any information on the flextek front, nothing else RC related really matters...

edit: now the new SR3100 arrived!
Such a fragile part shipped in a polstered envelope from USA to Germany, let's call it "brave". Not necessarily intelligent but brave...

edit2: It seems it really IS christmas today...
After just 25 days my MMM V3 from tower arrived! Another 20€ for the snails at customs though, and still no word on the GH steering (31 days and still counting...)

JoFreak · 01.05.2010, 07:39 PM

Well that's just great!
45 days waiting time for the GH steering link delivery are over, I contact towerhobbies, and what do they tell me? Refund or an extra 34$ for shipping via UPS. That's more than the GH steering was worth in the first place!
And now they will no longer give me the possibility to order with USPS, only if I let them ship to a US-address, which is BS since I don't know anyone in the US whom I could ask to receive the package and then send it to me...

suicideneil · 01.05.2010, 10:18 PM

I know several of the guys here will happily help you with that last issue, but the cost of shipping it to them & then to you will make it not worth while really. I know it isnt ideal, but check this out:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Golden-Horizon...item33585ad7f4

$20 + ~$10 shipping from ebay. Otherwise, you could use the GPM 3906 alloy bellcranks same as I have, then just use a normal servo saver on the actual servo ( 'Kimbrough large gas truck' model works well ). Heres the GPM:

silver, blue

Not quite as sexy as the GH, but if you give the silver one a bit of a polish it'll look pretty nice I reckon?

01:51 AM

I got a set of the GPM as a part of a lot buy. Though I've never used them, I don't think I trust them. The alloy feels extremely cheap and they're not very thick anywhere. It looks dinky next to the plastic on the proline bellcranks.

Neil, are the 3905 GH bellcranks compatible with the gorilla/3906 style trucks? I wonder if I could get a set of those, use an old or modify/fabricate a centre link and continue using my lunsford turnbuckles?

.dk

suicideneil · 01.06.2010, 06:19 PM

Yep, at the very most you may need to trim the little spacer tube/post that goes on the the non-saver side of the bellcrank unit- all the other holes will line up perfectly.

The GPM stuff does feel and look cheap for sure, I had my doubts too back when I first built the Gmaxx, but they have held up just fine- no bends or stress fractures despite my wonderful driving and several cartwheels