I found this from another build thread on this forum. No info on how it worked though. think it would be strong enough mounted like this? My mount would not look as slick as its not an RCMonster mount but it might work. :)
http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/e...3/af9e07cd.jpg

:lol: That mount will still go in my truck :lol:. Check out the RC-Monster store, Mika has made a nice motor mount: http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=rcmcdmm

You should see the angle on my BPP Truck :lol:. The angle on yours doesn't look that bad.

Can't blame a guy for asking ;)

I've been eyeing Mikes Universal Mount for a while. I should have just gone with it but I have what I have and would like to make it work. Wish I wasn't do stubborn.

Would it be crazy to put it upside down? To spin freely it needs to be too low, below where I would need to secure the platform. Using this mount sideways would be a little problematic because of how this mount is designed, where its mounting points are etc.
http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/e...3/9372bac5.jpg
Room for electronics up top.
http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/e...3/4ea378c9.jpg

I like the way he made that work. Do the same and you could (Maybe) fit the batteries inside the chassis.

Yes and no, the diff will get hot but it won't affect anything.


Or you could try this. I'm gonna try one in an lst build.

Ok, thanks. I just assumed that it's heavy and I'd need some thick oil in the center diff.

I think I could, they just arrived in the mail, I'll see if they will fit. The advantage in my mind to putting them on the sides though is being able to choose the weight bias and possibly putting them lower. inside the chassis would be best though.

Been really busy with our new baby so haven't had much time for rc. I did get the diffs shimmed, hd cvs's and outdrives installed, and I got my motor mount figured out. I ultimately want to use aluminum for all the parts I've made but I don't have the tools to make nice parts so I'm using Delrin for now.

I need to find a body with an 18-20" wheelbase. :)
http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/e...3/902c1974.jpg
http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/e...3/785d6ccb.jpg
http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/e...3/53516170.jpg
http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/e...3/61244aaf.jpg

Looking good so far. You'd be suprised what you can make out of aluminum with basic tools. That plate could be replicated with just a Drill, hacksaw and maybe a file to clean up rough edges. Delrin makes for good practice and mockup, don't know if I'd trust it for mounting the cd and motor though.

Edit: There's a few different bodies in that wheelbase range. FG, MCD, Hurrax are on the higher end of price. Redcat, Duratrax Firehammer, and other clones are about half the price.

I was under the impression Delrin was pretty dough stuff, I've made many parts out of it for my Super Crawler but never used it on any high speed rigs.
If I had a Drill Press the aluminum would be a piece of cake. I have some 3mm aluminum that might work (maybe double it up), I'll give it a go using the Delrin as a template. the Delrin is 3/8 thick and has almost zero flex much less than the 3mm aluminum.
Btw, thanks for the info on bodies!!

Delrin is pretty tough stuff, but that's a big truck thats going to have big power too. I didn't realize the plate was 3/8 thick, I'd think you'd be ok with that.

How much different between the normal CVs and drive cups as compared to the heavy duty ones?

The cv's are about the same, only difference is a smoother transition into the ball and pin at the end going into the output cup of the diff. The ball and pin that goes into the cup is much bigger as well as the cup it self, all three parts are approx 50-100% bigger. I bought one hd cv/outdrive separate from the other three from Cen and it has slightly different machining marks than the other three and a different finish, no idea if it or the other three are made out of stronger stuff than each other or the origional nemesis stuff but as I said the obvious difference is the cup, ball and pin. I meant to take pictures of everything dissembled but forgot, when I take the diffs apart to check them after I get it running I'll try to remember to do it then.

Glad to hear that, do you think 3mm aluminum would be strong enough if I decide to try and replicate the piece in aluminum? Either way I might sandwich the center diff between two plates top and bottom, I'm sure that would add a lot of rigidity. My plan is a little up in the air again however, the mount I have does not accept the m4 screws used on the Neu 1527 and I haven't decided which way to point the motor to allow space for the batteries while achieving descent weight bias (more weight up front but not too much), I just can't find a diff mount that makes things adequately simpler to justify the price.