Cen Nemesis XL Brushless Conversion

[IrishChamp]

Not much to post on this yet but I wanted to start a build thread. There is nothing too custom about this build, but I'm quite excited about the end result.
Chassis is 3.5 inches longer than stock, got it off of flea bay. :) I think the guy who makes them is Team4Monsters.... It has a couple shortcomings but with a little bit of help it should work great. Aluminum parts are GPM, shocks are losi LST.
Anyway, here is the first picture, many more to come.

[IrishChamp]

On a side note, I've never shimmed a diff before. I've found plenty of info on shimming the pinion shaft but nothing on how to shim the sun and planetary gears. I'm using the nemesis diffs which are beefy but I want to make sure I don't neglect them because of that.

[_paralyzed_]

Shimming- all shimming is the same. You want to add shims until there is almost no movement, just a tiny bit, a paper width of movement. If there is no movement it's too tight, and more than just a hair of movement is too loose.

[IrishChamp]

Add shims where?

Originally Posted by _paralyzed_

Shimming- all shimming is the same. You want to add shims until there is almost no movement, just a tiny bit, a paper width of movement. If there is no movement it's too tight, and more than just a hair of movement is too loose.

[_paralyzed_]

With the diff assembled if there is any in/out play in the diff cups you need to shim behind the sun gears to take that play out.

With the diff unassembled you can drop in a sun gear and see where it hits the planetarys. If you feel the mesh could be tightened then shim behind the planetarys.

[IrishChamp]

Ok, so behind the sun gear ontop of the rubber seal?
That's what I thought but I was worried about the metal shim against the rubber seal.
Thank you very much!!

Originally Posted by _paralyzed_

With the diff assembled if there is any in/out play in the diff cups you need to shim behind the sun gears to take that play out.

With the diff unassembled you can drop in a sun gear and see where it hits the planetarys. If you feel the mesh could be tightened then shim behind the planetarys.

[IrishChamp]

What do you all think of the angle on the center dogbones? I choose this mount because the motor is way down low but I don't have any experience with what angle is ok. The rear is longer so the angle is not much but the front is close to its max up and to the side on the center diff yokes, they allow less angle than the f & r diffs. Also, how much play should the dogbone end have into the yokes? I know the dogbones shouldn't be jammed into the back of the yoke or just barely hanging on.... Is 1/8Th at each ball/yoke point, 1/4 total for each dogbone approx.

[IrishChamp]

Bump for some input on the dgbone angles.

[pinkpanda3310]

If the dogbone spins freely in the yoke I don't really think it'll be a problem. Though I think the added friction will produce more heat. I also think the diff will get hot from the 1527 anyway. Don't be tempted to put thick oil in the diff because that also will produce more heat (of course). All that put together equals regular diff rebuilds. I don't really know if the yoke will eat your dogbones quickly but even if it does I would expect the diff to be higher maintenance.

You can try to reduce the stress on the diff a few ways - punch control, stay of high grip surfaces (tarmac) etc.. but at the end of the day I think you just need to run it and report back with a video

[_paralyzed_]

Those are fine angles. Get her done!

[lutach]

A center diff/motor mount would be at home in the Nemesis:

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...h/DSC01532.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...h/DSC01533.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...h/DSC01536.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...h/DSC01537.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...h/DSC01538.jpg

I had that made for my BPP Lightning truck.

[IrishChamp]

Sense that mount is already attached to the motor you wanna just throw it in the box as well?? ;)

Originally Posted by lutach

A center diff/motor mount would be at home in the Nemesis:

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...h/DSC01532.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...h/DSC01533.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...h/DSC01536.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...h/DSC01537.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...h/DSC01538.jpg

I had that made for my BPP Lightning truck.

[IrishChamp]

You are being sarcastic correct?? Ofna diff lock lube sound good?

Originally Posted by pinkpanda3310

If the dogbone spins freely in the yoke I don't really think it'll be a problem. Though I think the added friction will produce more heat. I also think the diff will get hot from the 1527 anyway. Don't be tempted to put thick oil in the diff because that also will produce more heat (of course). All that put together equals regular diff rebuilds. I don't really know if the yoke will eat your dogbones quickly but even if it does I would expect the diff to be higher maintenance.

You can try to reduce the stress on the diff a few ways - punch control, stay of high grip surfaces (tarmac) etc.. but at the end of the day I think you just need to run it and report back with a video

[pinkpanda3310]

Originally Posted by IrishChamp

You are being sarcastic correct??

Yes and no, the diff will get hot but it won't affect anything.

Originally Posted by IrishChamp

Ofna diff lock lube sound good?

Or you could try this. I'm gonna try one in an lst build.

[IrishChamp]

Ok, thanks. I just assumed that it's heavy and I'd need some thick oil in the center diff.

Originally Posted by pinkpanda3310

Yes and no, the diff will get hot but it won't affect anything.




Or you could try this. I'm gonna try one in an lst build.