Must be my perspective-trained brain trying to see the smaller tire out front since that is what it would look like in the real world...

Well I gave into chassis length as of right now. I decided to extended it to 16" even. This is due to allowing more servo/other things room.

I also decided after looking threw some old pictures that I used to LOVE the look of this vehicle.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...antom/msr3.jpg

So I decided that some times I will throw some narrowed rims with some Hole Shot MTR's on it.

Also, I plan on making a second rendering with a chassis set up like this one.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...om/blmaxx5.jpg
And decide which one I like the best.

I love the idea of CF inserts into the chassis.

Yeah, that guy did an amazing job on that chassis. I dont know if I will do CF inserts because I want to use the chassis as a heatsinks its self to dissepate some of the heat from the batteries,ecs, and motor. When refering to the picture above as a reference, I mean like putting the lipoly packs as close as possible together and making a really small width chassis.

only some days not around here...

Well the maxx is/was mine
It was one of my first works so quite ok but not perfekt.

I hadn't got the enough time for the hobby in the past but i started desgining a new chassis. Centerdiff+Slipper (like Slipperential), of course lipos and i wasn't sure about it but i thought about using an outrunner bl... i would have also used an mechanical brake.
I would build the chassis like " lego-principle" to make working on the truck more comftable. on the basis-chassis all over units (batterymount, centerdiff+Motor...) build up..

The CF inserts aren't really neccessary more for show... But i would "play" with the different materials, a truck complete out of alu isn't the best way...



Just for notice if you are looking for an ue razorback here:

http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...3320&rd=1&rd=1

Hey MaXXler, glad you could be part of this. I would like to see pics of the new project once you get to it. Let me know any advice if you have any. Also, I wasnt a huge fan of the razorback. I was waiting for the G3 to come out but it just doesnt look like it is going to makes it's way out.


I need to still order the XB8 steering assembly, but I am just going to CAD with the stock Ofna 9.5 Suspension.

Good job so far. When you render it, though, make sure to click perspective on. It does wonders. I'm looking forward to seeing the suspension and steering modelled.


JB

Before I go anywhere from here, I need a solution to a problem. A member from another forum brought up an issue about the motor braking with a center diff will only give breaking to the wheels with the least amount of traction and usually spin out the buggy. I was wondering if anyone had a suggestion for a fix to this problem without running mechanical brakes?

Your only options are:

A. Mechanical brakes, front, rear, or front/rear
B. Run a one-way in the front so only the rear have brakes
C. Don't believe him

I wouldn't think it to be a big deal. 90% of conversions use the motor brakes and I have yet to here somebody say something to that effect. Infact, I have a LSP that uses motor brakes and it doesn't...It stops on a dime however...

Update*

Thanks squee, I think I will just give it a try, and if there are problems to worry about them later.

I am messing around with the idea of widening the chassis to allow the center diff with a 46t Kyosho plastic spur to fit between the lipolys packs allowing me to move the diff to the center more for a better balanced vehicle. I also threw in a render of the motor slightly off to the side of the diff, this would drop the COG, but I am wondering if the motor heat will transfere to the lipolys packs this way even if I have my battery hold downs/heatsinks on?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...yPhantom/7.png
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...yPhantom/8.png
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...yPhantom/9.png
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...Phantom/10.png

There shouldn't be any problems with the motor right over the battery. Personally, the motor shouldn't get hot enough to worry about anyway...Are you going for a buggy length wheelbase?

If there were horrible braking problems as this person suggested then it would be a big topic. He doesn't know what he is talking about... obviously he's just speculating.

As I have said before on this topic, I have no problems with "electric" brakes. It is different than "nitro" brakes and there are disadvantages, but it's not a big deal. You can't use the brake to help the car rotate like with mech front/rear bias brakes. But there is no spin-out problems... the only bad thing with motor brake is that the front tends to push when hard on the brakes.

So you may have to brake a bit earlier and roll the corner or be on power through the turn, compared to a nitro.

I am going for buggy wheelbase. With this new chassis layout, I am able to move the lipolys back even further which is giving me more room for the stearing assembly from the XB8.

What about putting the motor in the center down on the chassis with the center diff above the motor. That would lower the COG. I had thought of that when I was laying mine out. I was able to keep everything down on the chassis with a different design. I used only one battery though. It could be off to the side and above one of the batteries. The drive shaft angles should work fine. I had mine mocked up like that and it looked like it would work all right.

that just looks plain SICK! i really want one now lol darn u! but id say for brakes, i have a mini inferno and it has a center diff with gears and nothing more, so no oil or anything and when i jam the gas it unloads, but jam the brakes and all 4 wheels would be stopping... id think the same here, past that just use heavier wt oil if it does happen lol.....but what other cars could u do this for? id want a truggy like this, lol every time i look at it im like I NEED THAT!

Changing up the design for a truggy application would be very easy.

Silentmonster, I really dont think that setup would work in my situation.

Update*
I should have a few new renderings in a little while.

id like to use losi 8ght t stuff....if u could make that all work that would be sick! but im nt asking for anything now lol, looks very pricey to machine all that:eek:

I would never choose the 8T suspension. They don't handle as well as alot of truggies, mostly because there very "twitchy" from what I have heard, but they say if you get use to it (not easy), you can be pretty fast with it. Anywho, I would go with the Mugen MBX5T suspension.

well personally, ur the only person that has said that... all the ppl i know have 8ghts and race at there tracks, and the fast truggies are the 8ght t.... i would use it i like it and thats what matters

Like I said, I have heard from numberous people that they prefer the Mugens because the 8T is twitchy, or "very responsive." I'm just saying, the Mugen is a better handling truggy.

from ur track.... other tracks 8ght t are def dominating, mugen is there too, but ppl stil say 8ght over mucgen.....idk id do losi anyways just because i like losi, and idk that im going to do much racing soon off road

hee hee... many "1/8 scale" guys don't like the Losi becasue you need some skills to drive it, instead of just slam it around the track.

Anyone who has a background in 1/10 cars loves the losis cause they actually have steering. Loads of steering = twitchy and too hard to drive to some, lol.

Really though.... many top brand trucks are very fast. It's the driver still 95%...

Mugen... Jammin.... and several t=others are all capable.

That's why you can look at the top 25 qualifiers at a big event and see 10+ different brand of cars.

At the recent bigtime race (1/8 buggy) there was 13 different cars in the top 25

Hmm, if people don't like it because it has so much steering, I would like it I guess, since I started with a 1/10th scle buggy. I'm thinking of getting a Hyper ST for nitro racing though, so I dunno.

The 8ights are kinda like 1/10 buggy...(especially the B4) So, compared to most 1/8 stuff theyare a little happy in the rear. But as they say "loose is fast"....

The trick is to get the rear to calm down a little and don't overdrive it. Some just don't like that style though and I can understand.... it's more "on edge".

if you use the 3/3 rear plate it hooks up better.

I actually like the stock 3-2 on the indoor track here.. but a lot of guys like the 3-3

I'll be trying it on the outdoor track soon...

look at this one:http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/12653

gd, did you get my pm?

Back on topic please.

any new pics?

I am thinking about switching up from running 2 3s1P packs, and combining them to 6s1p. I am thinking about running 2 5s1p packs, and running them 5s2p. This would allow me to use the quark and also get some more run time which I am looking for, because run time was my original reason to switching to Nitro a while back. I also plan on running a high KV motor to make up for the voltage drop.

!!!!!!!Updates coming soon!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well... where are they? lol I want to see!!:018:

I would have updates right now, but I am not at home. When I am at home, I have dual monitors running off my laptop for all the design work I do, and when I try to open it just on my laptop's monitor it isant there becaue it is dragged off the screen usually on the other monitors, so I will get some tonight.

we want pictures now

Well here is the small update that I was talking about. The project is taking baby steps at the moment due to me now having a 1:1 to work on. R/C's arent seeing alot of money these days.

Here is the final chassis design that I came up with. It only needs 2 more screw holes for the servo.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...yPhantom/3.png
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...yPhantom/1.png

I officially need a new computer. My laptop I think is taking a crap, and all the design programs I have on here, is probably not helping the fact. Im in snail mode 80% of the time now.

Very nice work man! That is my kind of setup, super clean, and simple... keep it that way.

If you want a new computer, build one your self and 'overclock' it, you can get a ~$150 cpu @ 2.13ghz Core 2 Duo and get +3.6ghz from it, these chips are blazing fast.

I am going to be taking my brother's sony Viao because he is going off to college, but I am just using that as the base. I still want to upgrade it for my needs. Where could I get that $150 CPU? I am planning on having 1.5TB(3-500GB hard drives) in the set up when I am done.

You would most likely have to get a new mainboard, and RAM as well though.

I guess the USD prices are different than CAD prices here, but here it is.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819115016

There is also the 2.4ghz chip for $220 as well.

How can I over clock that chip to 3+ ghz and how much will it cost me?

Overclocking is pretty simple. You just go into the BIOS. You will have to do something for the heatsinks though. It will likely get a little hot if you don't get a bigger heatsink and/or fans at the least. As far as RAM, ZPB is right. You will likely need to upgrade it because alot of computers still have 184 pin RAM and alot of the new motherboards are using 240 pin. I discovered this a few months ago when I built mine. Personally, I like AMD's. I have a AMD Athlong X2 4200+, probably gonna be the 6000+ soon. I'm pretty happy with it. I would go with 2 gigs of RAM or so. I have 1 gig right now, and my Alienware Dock says I'm using half that or so, and I don't have a bunch of programs or anything on my computer that I use.