brushless mammoth st help
 

hey everyone new to this forum.
i just picked up a mammoth st for dirt cheap. would it be a bad idea to convert the truck to brushless? Is there motor mounts for this conversion? or get some made?? i looked around and only found a few home made mounts

what ezrun set up should i go with?

thank for the help.

It's NEVER a bad idea to convert a nitro smoker over to brushless!!! If Mike doesn't have something that will work he can probably make something.

Are you already set on EZ-Run? What about going with a true and tested Mamba Monster or Tekin? If you need to be cheap there is a new 150A HobbyCity ESC out that looks like it could hold it's own against the EZ-Run stuff.

yeah i heard mike does a lot of custom work i just looked at the baja he made brushless wow!! looks sick!!
just looked at the HC esc looks just like a ezrun model..
if i had the money i would get a MM but for the time being ezrun system is what im going to use.
I might pic up a NOVAK SS 5800Kv BRUSHLESS SYSTEM for dirt cheap on craigslist just waiting for the person to email me back.

hopefully mike can help me out.

First...welcome to RCM! One of the mounts Mike sells may fit. contact Mike and ask him..be patient, he will respond and he is REALLY busy mike@rc-monster.com <mike@rc-monster.com

Mike also makes terrific battery trays for your batts. in many sizes. He will also do custom tray sizes if you need.

I don't not know much about that Novak system...but seeing as your truck is heavy, be careful what system you put in it. Better to save for the right system then have to buy 2 systems. A mistake that many of us have made before.

On 4s a great system would be either the cc 2200kv/mmm combo or a Tekin system w/a 2000kv , 2200kv truggy motor.

On 5s then either the 2200kv castle system again or a 1700 tekin system. The 1700 Tekin system would be more efficient on 5s than the 2200kv castle system.

Both systems listed above are great and most members here are running these systems and could help w/set up or questions.

yeah i was also thinking the novak system wouldn't work to well on a big heavy truck if i do end up getting ill prob put it on my xxx4 or convert my rc10gt =D trying to get out of nitro...ill try my luck with the ezrun system for now but when i do get some cash im going with a castle system i had one in my rc18t loved it ...regret trading it..=/


i just emailed him lets see how it goes.

Sounds like you have a good plan..best of luck!

Mammoth st Conversion
 

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...ght=mammothorm

The xtm mammoth st is a great platform for a brushless conversion. I purchased my motor mounts and two speed pinion gear at fine design but I am sure Mike can hook you up also. I run a 7xl monster esc combo on my two speed mammoth st and it has to be moving at least 60+mph on 6s. My 2nd mammoth st with the center diff now has the monster system 2200kv and it is pretty fast even with a center diff. Stock parts can be found at hobbypeople or ebay.Most bodies made for the Losi lst2 will fit the mammoth st chassis. Now get to work on that conversion:whip:

thanks for posting up info!

should i keep the 2 speed?
or go center diff?

its just for bashing some pretty hardcore bashing:diablo:
i heard you cant land on the gas it makes the gear strip is that right??

im also looking for a brace i have been looking at rc visions braces
there a lil pricey for a lil 7050 T-7 Aluminum, rod. im going to try to make my own. or maybe even get one made:wink:

I think you should go for a center diff. the CD are a bit smaller then the 2gear, a center diff is about 35mm "thick". so you have to get that solved.

and you need a rod to avoid bending, be sure that ist's a quality aluminium. those chassis aren't the stiffest ones, you can't compare that to a mugen or los or whatever. I just converted a budget truggy, and took a tintianium rod to stiffen the chassis.

you could get gearing problems with 2200 on 6s. I would go for the tekin w. 1700kv on 6s.

Im pretty sure can make a simple brace just like the rcvisions
would the RC-monsters center diff work????
for now I'm going with a ezrunn system..

would it be a good idea to keep the braking servo?
so i wouldn't have to use the motor for braking

sure you can keep the mechanical breaks. like that you can vary the front/rear breaks (eg. stronger rear breaks), and you can take a "normal" brushless esc.

in 1/6 conversions, many use the hobbywing pentium 100a esc (aka turnigy sentilon).
I had several "suppo style" esc's as a backup-esc during the last years, and currently, again I have a 200a esc in use, (including switching BEC, plus an extra fan, extra caps), because my car esc smoked. you just need some special wires for the breaking-servo.

my experience with plane-ESC's: cheap, reliable, No cogging at all, good throttle response, but NO proportional breaks, well better then nothing (don't have mechanical breakes). In the past I never smoked a plane-ecs (just killed them with shorts/water).

using mec. breaks also is good for the esc, breaking causes short peaks in voltage, which can damage the esc.

thanks for the info i was thinking of going with this for a esc

http://www.nitrorcx.com/ezrun-150a-s...5-rc-cars.html

or even a 80a esc

like that you don't need mechanical breaks. afaik the tekno conversion kit for example is designed for a setup with mechanical breaks.

At the moment I have this esc, until I get the car esc replaced:
http://cgi.ebay.de/ioi-Brushless-Reg...item3350cc440c
for 75 usd incl. bec quite ok. despite some say that plane esc's are no option, I'm quite happy with them. actually, I wished the car ESCs have the same reliability...

There are various esc's like that out there (e.g. mystery), and I think they don't all have the same quality.

you can get the mount done by yourself for sure, to keep the budget low (and then spend the money on a good motor and batteries).

when using a car esc, you have various throttle curves, drag breaks etc. so both sides have their benefits. some would say, on the race-track only with a good car esc, as some say, with mechanical breaks you have the advantage of drifting in curves...

flo
edit:
when going for the ezrun, u should go for the 150a/6s version, 4s in that truck might not be sufficient

ive been looking at the plane esc i never new ppl put them in rc cars..
what would be cheaper to use?

You need something called a PiStix adapter to use plane escs generally. The thr signals are different from car radios vs air.

But honestly, if this is your first BL, I would say not to try and go too cheap and make things way to complicated and possibly unreliable. Buy cheap=buy twice.

I highly recommend just getting a Castle 2200kv combo and running that on 4 to 6S. IDK how big/hvy the truck is, but if its really heavy you may want to use a Neu 1521 instead.
The 2200 should be fine tho. Best off is the great warrantee, powerful software, and awesome service. IDK where you live, but do you really want to send a $100 esc halfway around the world for service BC you bought some knockoff esc from China?

ESC brakes are great, plus you get reverse. Reverse is really nice to have. You can get mech brakes, Ive done that, but its not worth a lot of trouble, esp if you are just bashing about.

You don't need a 2spd. A center diff is nicer to have and a BL motor does not more gears to be fast. RCM's slipperential is really nice, plus it gives a little low end slip plus some protection to the drivetrain from the low end TQ an elec motor has. If you can swing this, I would. It should fit about anywhere a std CD does.

5s on a CC 2200 should push that truck around just fine.

2 speeds and electrics don't really play well together. Either lock it into one gear or the other or replace it with a CD.

ESC braking is very nice to have but can also cause issues if you are doing lots of hard braking (especially with subpar batteries). I ran 4s Maxamps 8000s in my Muggy with a MMM and hard braking toasted it after just a few hours of total use. Airplane ESCs are very cheap in comparison to a car ESC but they aren't built as tough (which is why they can't handle proper ESC braking). I wouldn't mind building a truck that runs on mechanical brakes because I almost never use the brakes and air ESCs are so much cheaper. Bear in mind that mechanical brakes experience brake fade, ESC braking builds up heat in the ESC but it's manageable and you don't lose braking performance.

yeah the center diff is a must.
i also have been looking at lipo packs
ZIPPY Flightmax are really cheap in price. what do u guys think abt them..?

Zippy Flightmaxes are good performance for the money. I have run normal Zippy, Turnigy, and Rhino lipos and they all perform well for what you pay. The quality control and pack construction is subpar but for the price how can you complain? Hyperion G3 lipos are very good packs and are still reasonably priced.

alright thanks need to start looking for a charger =]

edit: what do u guys think abt this charger http://www.hobbypartz.com/thac6smbachw.html

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...OS0606I&cat=19

Great charger, for what you get it's good value as well. I have the predecessor (the 5i) and it has been going strong for 3-4 years and has been used literally thousands of times without error.

nope, never needed a pistix for those plane esc's, running them with my 40mhz fm acoms Hayabusa.

and again, the "suppo-style" esc's I had were very rugged. they all say, they're not reliable, their acceleration is bad etc. I have never experienced something like that. The breaks are just on/off, like an anchor. So that should be killing the esc when breaking, but it didn't. start-up on 1 deg. timing with the losi 4-pole is smoother then sae-car-esc I've testet recently (but I think they just did an updat on the software). with 7 deg. timing no cogging at all.

On the other hand: I used to have a "scorpion Commander 6s120a", and when changing the settings (after the first 3 batteries), it smoked, just during programming. And it's supposed to be a "quality brand". some folks here in Germany smoked MGM controllers (obsiosly used them right), and waited months for a replacement. but it's a "quality brand". We see, Marketing can do a lot...

Mech. & "electronic" Breaks have their pro's and con's, so U have to find out what is important for you. A con for mechanical breaks is for example the extra weight. on the other hand, most of the 1/5, 1/6 conversions work like that.

anyways, I don't want to hype these cheap plane esc's.

but just because it's cheap doesn't mean it's crap.

^^^

That's all well and good, but my general point is that I don't think they are a good option as a first intro into large scale BL conversions.

For a beginner, its better to get something proven, reliable and more common. All with good customer support. You don't want to be fighting your setup because you bought it too cheaply, or such a strange setup there are few people availble to help you when trouble arises.

The Castle system fits all those specs, plus a low price. If the OP is in the US, I can't see any reason why you'd want to get something different. Repair service is quick and shipping is fast and cheap. Once somebody gets experienced with electrics, then they may want to try something different and more unique (not that its better neccessarily.) Last thing you want to do is get something strange and overly complicated as a beginner, have problems few know how to fix, get frustrated and quit electrics altogether.

yeah and i don't like getting frustrated!! hahah
going to start striping the mammoth.
thanks for all the help guys.

hi I have just converted my mammoth, with an kb45 10xl runing on 6s, it is very very powerful, i need to change the diffs for the diffs of the xtm mmt because the stock diffs on the mammoth are very bad for that motor..... I do all things for the conversion on CF and it is very strenght.... I want to change a few things, better shocks, but only 4, an rollcage and tower post for the back..... Can anyone recommend me a good shocks for that truck? and a rollcage?
two pics....
http://i477.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/DSCF4082.jpg
http://i477.photobucket.com/albums/r...o/DSCF4083.jpg

how long would the stock diff work for?
this truck is pretty new used like 3 times .
any videos? =]

were did you get the mounts??

looks like he made them

yoo mikeee help me out with some mounts

...?

Mohammed must go to the mountain:

Clicky

:wink: