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brushless mammoth st help
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freddy1
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brushless mammoth st help - 11.06.2009, 07:54 PM

hey everyone new to this forum.
i just picked up a mammoth st for dirt cheap. would it be a bad idea to convert the truck to brushless? Is there motor mounts for this conversion? or get some made?? i looked around and only found a few home made mounts

what ezrun set up should i go with?

thank for the help.
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simplechamp
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11.06.2009, 09:20 PM

It's NEVER a bad idea to convert a nitro smoker over to brushless!!! If Mike doesn't have something that will work he can probably make something.

Are you already set on EZ-Run? What about going with a true and tested Mamba Monster or Tekin? If you need to be cheap there is a new 150A HobbyCity ESC out that looks like it could hold it's own against the EZ-Run stuff.
   
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freddy1
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11.06.2009, 09:48 PM

yeah i heard mike does a lot of custom work i just looked at the baja he made brushless wow!! looks sick!!
just looked at the HC esc looks just like a ezrun model..
if i had the money i would get a MM but for the time being ezrun system is what im going to use.
I might pic up a NOVAK SS 5800Kv BRUSHLESS SYSTEM for dirt cheap on craigslist just waiting for the person to email me back.

hopefully mike can help me out.

Last edited by freddy1; 11.06.2009 at 10:00 PM.
   
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magman
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11.06.2009, 10:03 PM

First...welcome to RCM! One of the mounts Mike sells may fit. contact Mike and ask him..be patient, he will respond and he is REALLY busy mike@rc-monster.com
Mike also makes terrific battery trays for your batts. in many sizes. He will also do custom tray sizes if you need.

I don't not know much about that Novak system...but seeing as your truck is heavy, be careful what system you put in it. Better to save for the right system then have to buy 2 systems. A mistake that many of us have made before.

On 4s a great system would be either the cc 2200kv/mmm combo or a Tekin system w/a 2000kv , 2200kv truggy motor.

On 5s then either the 2200kv castle system again or a 1700 tekin system. The 1700 Tekin system would be more efficient on 5s than the 2200kv castle system.

Both systems listed above are great and most members here are running these systems and could help w/set up or questions.


1. MBX-6 T8 1900KV, RX8 ON 4S
2. MBX-5T 1520, MMM ON 5S
3. MBX-5 ONROAD CONVERSION 1515, MMM ON 5S
4. MRX-3 ON ROAD CONVERSION 1512, MMM ON 6S
5. TEN T 2650 T8, MMP ON 3S

Last edited by magman; 11.06.2009 at 10:05 PM.
   
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freddy1
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11.06.2009, 10:30 PM

yeah i was also thinking the novak system wouldn't work to well on a big heavy truck if i do end up getting ill prob put it on my xxx4 or convert my rc10gt =D trying to get out of nitro...ill try my luck with the ezrun system for now but when i do get some cash im going with a castle system i had one in my rc18t loved it ...regret trading it..=/


i just emailed him lets see how it goes.
   
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magman
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11.06.2009, 11:32 PM

Sounds like you have a good plan..best of luck!


1. MBX-6 T8 1900KV, RX8 ON 4S
2. MBX-5T 1520, MMM ON 5S
3. MBX-5 ONROAD CONVERSION 1515, MMM ON 5S
4. MRX-3 ON ROAD CONVERSION 1512, MMM ON 6S
5. TEN T 2650 T8, MMP ON 3S
   
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Mammoth st Conversion
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Electricmammoth
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Mammoth st Conversion - 11.07.2009, 01:34 AM

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...ght=mammothorm

The xtm mammoth st is a great platform for a brushless conversion. I purchased my motor mounts and two speed pinion gear at fine design but I am sure Mike can hook you up also. I run a 7xl monster esc combo on my two speed mammoth st and it has to be moving at least 60+mph on 6s. My 2nd mammoth st with the center diff now has the monster system 2200kv and it is pretty fast even with a center diff. Stock parts can be found at hobbypeople or ebay.Most bodies made for the Losi lst2 will fit the mammoth st chassis. Now get to work on that conversion
   
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freddy1
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11.07.2009, 06:21 AM

thanks for posting up info!

should i keep the 2 speed?
or go center diff?

its just for bashing some pretty hardcore bashing
i heard you cant land on the gas it makes the gear strip is that right??

im also looking for a brace i have been looking at rc visions braces
there a lil pricey for a lil 7050 T-7 Aluminum, rod. im going to try to make my own. or maybe even get one made
   
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florianz
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11.07.2009, 01:36 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by freddy1 View Post
thanks for posting up info!

should i keep the 2 speed?
or go center diff?

its just for bashing some pretty hardcore bashing
i heard you cant land on the gas it makes the gear strip is that right??

im also looking for a brace i have been looking at rc visions braces
there a lil pricey for a lil 7050 T-7 Aluminum, rod. im going to try to make my own. or maybe even get one made
I think you should go for a center diff. the CD are a bit smaller then the 2gear, a center diff is about 35mm "thick". so you have to get that solved.

and you need a rod to avoid bending, be sure that ist's a quality aluminium. those chassis aren't the stiffest ones, you can't compare that to a mugen or los or whatever. I just converted a budget truggy, and took a tintianium rod to stiffen the chassis.

you could get gearing problems with 2200 on 6s. I would go for the tekin w. 1700kv on 6s.
   
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freddy1
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11.07.2009, 02:12 PM

Im pretty sure can make a simple brace just like the rcvisions
would the RC-monsters center diff work????
for now I'm going with a ezrunn system..
   
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freddy1
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11.10.2009, 10:09 PM

would it be a good idea to keep the braking servo?
so i wouldn't have to use the motor for braking
   
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florianz
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11.11.2009, 06:50 AM

sure you can keep the mechanical breaks. like that you can vary the front/rear breaks (eg. stronger rear breaks), and you can take a "normal" brushless esc.

in 1/6 conversions, many use the hobbywing pentium 100a esc (aka turnigy sentilon).
I had several "suppo style" esc's as a backup-esc during the last years, and currently, again I have a 200a esc in use, (including switching BEC, plus an extra fan, extra caps), because my car esc smoked. you just need some special wires for the breaking-servo.

my experience with plane-ESC's: cheap, reliable, No cogging at all, good throttle response, but NO proportional breaks, well better then nothing (don't have mechanical breakes). In the past I never smoked a plane-ecs (just killed them with shorts/water).

using mec. breaks also is good for the esc, breaking causes short peaks in voltage, which can damage the esc.
   
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freddy1
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11.11.2009, 06:58 AM

thanks for the info i was thinking of going with this for a esc

http://www.nitrorcx.com/ezrun-150a-s...5-rc-cars.html

or even a 80a esc
   
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florianz
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11.11.2009, 08:20 AM

like that you don't need mechanical breaks. afaik the tekno conversion kit for example is designed for a setup with mechanical breaks.

At the moment I have this esc, until I get the car esc replaced:
http://cgi.ebay.de/ioi-Brushless-Reg...item3350cc440c
for 75 usd incl. bec quite ok. despite some say that plane esc's are no option, I'm quite happy with them. actually, I wished the car ESCs have the same reliability...

There are various esc's like that out there (e.g. mystery), and I think they don't all have the same quality.

you can get the mount done by yourself for sure, to keep the budget low (and then spend the money on a good motor and batteries).

when using a car esc, you have various throttle curves, drag breaks etc. so both sides have their benefits. some would say, on the race-track only with a good car esc, as some say, with mechanical breaks you have the advantage of drifting in curves...

flo
edit:
when going for the ezrun, u should go for the 150a/6s version, 4s in that truck might not be sufficient

Last edited by florianz; 11.11.2009 at 08:24 AM.
   
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freddy1
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11.11.2009, 04:37 PM

ive been looking at the plane esc i never new ppl put them in rc cars..
what would be cheaper to use?
   
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