Cen Nemesis XL Brushless Conversion
 

Not much to post on this yet but I wanted to start a build thread. There is nothing too custom about this build, but I'm quite excited about the end result.
Chassis is 3.5 inches longer than stock, got it off of flea bay. :) I think the guy who makes them is Team4Monsters.... It has a couple shortcomings but with a little bit of help it should work great. Aluminum parts are GPM, shocks are losi LST.
Anyway, here is the first picture, many more to come.
http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/e...3/75ee6096.jpg

On a side note, I've never shimmed a diff before. I've found plenty of info on shimming the pinion shaft but nothing on how to shim the sun and planetary gears. I'm using the nemesis diffs which are beefy but I want to make sure I don't neglect them because of that.

Shimming- all shimming is the same. You want to add shims until there is almost no movement, just a tiny bit, a paper width of movement. If there is no movement it's too tight, and more than just a hair of movement is too loose.

Add shims where?

With the diff assembled if there is any in/out play in the diff cups you need to shim behind the sun gears to take that play out.

With the diff unassembled you can drop in a sun gear and see where it hits the planetarys. If you feel the mesh could be tightened then shim behind the planetarys.

Ok, so behind the sun gear ontop of the rubber seal?
That's what I thought but I was worried about the metal shim against the rubber seal.
Thank you very much!!

What do you all think of the angle on the center dogbones? I choose this mount because the motor is way down low but I don't have any experience with what angle is ok. The rear is longer so the angle is not much but the front is close to its max up and to the side on the center diff yokes, they allow less angle than the f & r diffs. Also, how much play should the dogbone end have into the yokes? I know the dogbones shouldn't be jammed into the back of the yoke or just barely hanging on.... Is 1/8Th at each ball/yoke point, 1/4 total for each dogbone approx.

http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/e...3/b9110cfb.jpg
http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/e...3/4c91cfa8.jpg
http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/e...3/9b88d681.jpg

Bump for some input on the dgbone angles.

If the dogbone spins freely in the yoke I don't really think it'll be a problem. Though I think the added friction will produce more heat. I also think the diff will get hot from the 1527 anyway. Don't be tempted to put thick oil in the diff because that also will produce more heat (of course:sarcastic:). All that put together equals regular diff rebuilds. I don't really know if the yoke will eat your dogbones quickly but even if it does I would expect the diff to be higher maintenance.

You can try to reduce the stress on the diff a few ways - punch control, stay of high grip surfaces (tarmac) etc.. but at the end of the day I think you just need to run it and report back with a video :rules:

Those are fine angles. Get her done!:yes:

A center diff/motor mount would be at home in the Nemesis:

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...h/DSC01532.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...h/DSC01533.jpg
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I had that made for my BPP Lightning truck.

Sense that mount is already attached to the motor you wanna just throw it in the box as well?? ;)

You are being sarcastic correct?? Ofna diff lock lube sound good?

I could also mount it at the back motor facing forward. The angle is a little better I think, diff is lower.

http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/e...3/7628fa60.jpg
http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/e...3/ce5d60e6.jpg
http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/e...3/346469b0.jpg
http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/e...3/72c943d4.jpg

Vs.

http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/e...3/99b6a58d.jpg

Thinking aloud here.. but I'm wondering if you can't mount the diff sideways, so that the motor is oriented either on top or beneath it. Some aluminum spacers would give you room to allow for clearance of the spur, and you could even center it between the two chassis plates.

I found this from another build thread on this forum. No info on how it worked though. think it would be strong enough mounted like this? My mount would not look as slick as its not an RCMonster mount but it might work. :)
http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/e...3/af9e07cd.jpg

:lol: That mount will still go in my truck :lol:. Check out the RC-Monster store, Mika has made a nice motor mount: http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=rcmcdmm

You should see the angle on my BPP Truck :lol:. The angle on yours doesn't look that bad.

Can't blame a guy for asking ;)

I've been eyeing Mikes Universal Mount for a while. I should have just gone with it but I have what I have and would like to make it work. Wish I wasn't do stubborn.

Would it be crazy to put it upside down? To spin freely it needs to be too low, below where I would need to secure the platform. Using this mount sideways would be a little problematic because of how this mount is designed, where its mounting points are etc.
http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/e...3/9372bac5.jpg
Room for electronics up top.
http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/e...3/4ea378c9.jpg

I like the way he made that work. Do the same and you could (Maybe) fit the batteries inside the chassis.

Yes and no, the diff will get hot but it won't affect anything.


Or you could try this. I'm gonna try one in an lst build.

Ok, thanks. I just assumed that it's heavy and I'd need some thick oil in the center diff.

I think I could, they just arrived in the mail, I'll see if they will fit. The advantage in my mind to putting them on the sides though is being able to choose the weight bias and possibly putting them lower. inside the chassis would be best though.

Been really busy with our new baby so haven't had much time for rc. I did get the diffs shimmed, hd cvs's and outdrives installed, and I got my motor mount figured out. I ultimately want to use aluminum for all the parts I've made but I don't have the tools to make nice parts so I'm using Delrin for now.

I need to find a body with an 18-20" wheelbase. :)
http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/e...3/902c1974.jpg
http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/e...3/785d6ccb.jpg
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Looking good so far. You'd be suprised what you can make out of aluminum with basic tools. That plate could be replicated with just a Drill, hacksaw and maybe a file to clean up rough edges. Delrin makes for good practice and mockup, don't know if I'd trust it for mounting the cd and motor though.

Edit: There's a few different bodies in that wheelbase range. FG, MCD, Hurrax are on the higher end of price. Redcat, Duratrax Firehammer, and other clones are about half the price.

I was under the impression Delrin was pretty dough stuff, I've made many parts out of it for my Super Crawler but never used it on any high speed rigs.
If I had a Drill Press the aluminum would be a piece of cake. I have some 3mm aluminum that might work (maybe double it up), I'll give it a go using the Delrin as a template. the Delrin is 3/8 thick and has almost zero flex much less than the 3mm aluminum.
Btw, thanks for the info on bodies!!

Delrin is pretty tough stuff, but that's a big truck thats going to have big power too. I didn't realize the plate was 3/8 thick, I'd think you'd be ok with that.

How much different between the normal CVs and drive cups as compared to the heavy duty ones?

The cv's are about the same, only difference is a smoother transition into the ball and pin at the end going into the output cup of the diff. The ball and pin that goes into the cup is much bigger as well as the cup it self, all three parts are approx 50-100% bigger. I bought one hd cv/outdrive separate from the other three from Cen and it has slightly different machining marks than the other three and a different finish, no idea if it or the other three are made out of stronger stuff than each other or the origional nemesis stuff but as I said the obvious difference is the cup, ball and pin. I meant to take pictures of everything dissembled but forgot, when I take the diffs apart to check them after I get it running I'll try to remember to do it then.

Glad to hear that, do you think 3mm aluminum would be strong enough if I decide to try and replicate the piece in aluminum? Either way I might sandwich the center diff between two plates top and bottom, I'm sure that would add a lot of rigidity. My plan is a little up in the air again however, the mount I have does not accept the m4 screws used on the Neu 1527 and I haven't decided which way to point the motor to allow space for the batteries while achieving descent weight bias (more weight up front but not too much), I just can't find a diff mount that makes things adequately simpler to justify the price.

I think that mounting your motor mount sideways (like in post 16) is the way to go.

Make two plates that attach to the chassis rails with existing holes, drop the diff in to measure the spacers you need then attach the diff to the plates. That would get it low enough and straighten out the axles.

I've strongly considered that, maybe I should revisit the idea, I do think however that I will need to get a new mount as this one is presenting more and more little issues. I just noticed that the motor won't sit flush against the mount because it has a small raised area around the shaft bearing that does not fit into the center slot of the mount.
I've beep looking around locally and online to try and find someone who is willing to make a simple custom mount for a reasonable price, something that attaches to both sides of the chassis and does not need a mounting plate

Anyone have any experience with Schulz esc's specifically the Future L 40.100. How do they compare to Kontronk esc's, any frequent failures etc? Would this esc be adequate?
I can't find much info on them, do they have a bec like the Kontronik esc's?

Schulze never replaces a burnt esc, they always say it is the users fault, so there is no warranty.

They are good esc's but very expensive, and very very large. Bigger than a deck of cards.

What voltage do you plan on running? I think an IceHV 160 and a pistix will work for you, and cost hundreds less than a schulze or kontronik.

I'd like to have reverse that's why I'm looking at Kontronok and this Schulz came up for $220, much cheaper than any used Kontronik esc's. I'm running 10s to start.
Do Schulz burn up often? I'm not sure if this 40.100 would be any better than a Kontronik jive 80hv and if it would be up to the task of operating acceleration and braking on this big truck. My biggest concern is the braking amp/voltage spikes regardless of what esc I choose.
The Kontronik esc's are waterproof and hugely underrated plus the built in quality BEC makes them my first choice, I just trying to find a nice jive 120hv for a reasonable price.

No, schulzes are no more prone to burning up than any other esc. The schulze you are looking at is an airplane esc, would require a pistix and does not have reverse.

Are you sure the jive has reverse? That is news to me..

From the jive manual:

7.1 Auto-Programming-Mode APM (Mode 1) 19
7.2 Glider-Mode (Mode 2) 19
7.3 Motor-Plane/ Boat-Mode (Mode 3) 19
7.4 Heli-Mode (Mode 4) 19
7.5 Competition-Mode (Mode 5) 20
7.6 Car-Mode Race: one direction, proportional brake (Mode 6) 20
7.7 Reverse Motor Rotation (Mode 7) 20
7.8 F3A Motor Plane Mode (Mode 8) 20
7.9 LiPo Mode (Mode 9) 20
7.10 KSA-Mode (Mode 10) 20
7.11 Heli Mode with constant RPM control

The car mode has one direction, jive controllers do not have reverse.

Hmmm, I must be loosing it. I destinctly remember looking at the manual and under mode 6 instructions there was the race mode and then a couple other
sub options, one of them being forward/reverse with proportional braking.
I wonder if there is a newer or older manual I looked at originally??

The Schulze L ESC has a car mode and no pistix required. I had the old 40.160 and it was a beast. Not sure how the new ones are built, but the older ones had what it seemed to be a thick copper heat sink in between the PCB. The Schulze L has a larger footprint compared to the Jive. The Jive has a car mode, but I don't think it has reverse. The Schulze L, XL and XXL are all OPTO and you'll need an RX pack or external BEC. Schulze was going to release the M series which was going to have a BEC for their HV units, but they will not be available this year. That cheap Jive 120HV in the other forum is looking good, too bad my 10S ESC is still going strong :lol:.

The other option is to reverse the motor's rotation. The Jazz ESCs is the one that has the option for for/rev w/prop. braking.