My Brushless Muggy Project : input please :)

[The Cow]

Hello Everyone,

This is my first time posting here but i have been lurking in the shadow for a long time :) . Looks like you guys talk alot of bussiness and leave the drama behind.... My kind of forum. My name is Heath I go by The Cow on many RC forums. I will apologize for the ridulously long post i tend to be the king of useless information
It seems there is alot of experience here on this subject so I hope to benefit from some of your knowledge if you guys could be so kind I have a few questions if you don’t mind In reference to the conversion I am putting together…. and let me know if I am on the right track or there is a better track (set up) in relation to my goals… THANKS!! I have read every muggy post here :) Bl and most all even on the nitro....
Although I am a newcomer to 1/8 BL conversions I am no newcomer to r/c or fabrication. ;) I am looking to build a durable…. Lightweight roller for a MUGGY, of course (electronics will be heavy) It is already paid for and a week or two away! I am only a parking lot basher…. This veh will rarely see off road anything more then some grass nothing to dirty... I know i am a chick . I will be fabricating my own 8-10mm 2mm weave carbon fiber chassis, separate center support brace, and all servo-battery hold downs etc unless the one i show below is more feasible although there is alot of weight to be saved there IMO ( i know it is a killer chassis regardless ) I will not be happy with less than 55mph minimum when lightly geared and running cool as could be! I mean cool electronics through the whole run being used.... actually I would like to be able to run multiple packs with out hesitation or much of a cool down as I do not expect to get long runtimes with this set up… 15-20 minutes or so? However I would like the ability to gear up for some crazy 60+ maybe 65mph+ runs if I want to watch the heat issues and deal with cool down periods… While I do not want to throw away cash on useless stuff I will not be looking to skimp or cut corners to save money…. A little too much is always just right in my book
While nothing is set in stone ( i have only purchased the muggy) this is what I am thinking rite now.


Here is what I am thinking as of now….



Setup #1. This is my preferred idea I know it will Have violent torque although I am wondering if I will get the speeds I desire and stay cool at the same time…



1. NUE 1521/1.5D I know this will fit on the rc-monster mount I plan to use but can I fit the finned version?

2. Mamba monster – I believe the bugs are just about gone and I just love the software….would be hard to convince me on any other esc

3. Flightpower evo30 4500mah 6s or evo25 4900mah 6s Do you think it pays to go for the evo 30… I would think it would equal a cooler system although less runtime just not sure if its necessary



Setup #2 I like this too and it gives me the option to move up to 6s although I feel this may be too hot of a setup on 6s and I question the durability of the electronics and veh at over 60,000 rpm L



NUE 1521/1D assuming I can fit a finned version….
Mamba monster
Flightpower evo30 or 4500mah or evo 25 4900mah 5s or possibly 6s just not to confident this will be a reliable trouble free setup all those kv's


I look foward to your input

Heath Meschkow

[Finnster]

I have doubts the MMM can put out enough power to get you to that speed. Maybe, but so far it hasn't proven anythign yet. You'll need at least 3000W I would think for that huge truck, maybe more depending on tires. That's at least 150A on 6s, if not looking closer to 200A.

[The Cow]

I thought the monster was 200a... I could be wrong for sure however but i thought i read that on a post here... What would be a more amp happy Esc in your opinion?

Thanks for the input my friend :)

Heath

[The Cow]

i will post some of the running gear and tires etc....

thanks!

NUE 1521/1.5 d - If it will fit, i would like it to be finned - 1900kv - 60k max - 31v max - 21.8 oz - 4" long - 2250w con. - 4500x max :)




MAMBA monster esc - 6cell - 25v - switching bec - I may be wrong but these are 200a cont!! :)



FLIGHTPOWER Evo30premium - 4500mah - 6s - 30c 135amp cont - 60c 270amp max!! :)



With a rc-monster mount I have seen a few threads where the smoot can fits easily with room to spare! I am hoping the finned 1521 should fit np problem. 1.0 Mod pinions, 6.5 bullets, This I hope will be beyond overkill and I will be blessed with not just wheelie capable torque but rather muggy in air backflipping torque :)

[The Cow]

and some more.....


jdepending on the cost effectiveness of making a 8-10mm carbon fiber chassis I may do so or i may go with this

Innovative T6 aluminum 4mm chassis black anodized chassis



I plan to keep the suspension stock besides a few upgades... I love rpm... Diregard the blue arms I will have black.

RPM- black LST a-arm Adapter Kit and adjustable camber a-arms for the Losi LST2 & Muggy




Now with the riduculouse hex stripping torque I will have I figure I will need some reel kex hubs so why not go right to the big daddies :)

PRO LINE 23mm blue hd hex



I will need the lightes wheels-Tire combo i can find... these seem to be lightest plastic wheels since I cant find foams in this size.... 4.2" + Does anyone know if 4"+ foams are even made? These look ok but
I need to stop into my lhs as they carry the hpi stuff and they have a few nice otions if they are lightweight that i will consider as well.

PRO LINE white Wabash 40 Series 23mm HD



of-course low profile street tires and moulded lp inserts

PRO LINE road rage 40 series and moulded lp inserts




Let me know what you all think.... I cant wait... Few short weeks and i will have something to start tinkering with :)

Heath

[bdebde]

I don't use RCM mount (made my own) but the finned can fits with even the smallest pinions (10t), The rcm mount should do the same.

You will certainly need a 1521, I would steer clear of the 1D though (amp hog), The 1.5D or 1Y (my preference) would be better IMO. I think satttheman was getting about 60mph with the 1Y.

I too would be unsure the MMM would be the controller to use, still running the cr@p out of mine to see if it holds up. I really like my MGM, still trying to see if the MMM is enough to replace it. MGM has some new models coming out with some more features and 250 - 280 amp power handling.

If going for speed, I would certainly go for the evo 30 batts.

Innovative_RC chassis is one stout chassis, I love mine.

Haven't had any need for the rpm arms; still have not broken a stock one yet.

The Muggy has 20mm hexes which are fine, but limit you to losi wheels. I also have the 23mm adapters for 40 series wheels/tires. Not too sure how the 40 series road rages are; I never liked the 2.2 or buggy size as they balooned like crazy. I also use 17mm hexes for HPI phaltline wheels/tires, and they work without any problems/stripping. You may want to go with the phaltlines if just running mainly on road, but do not get the pre-glued ones (HPI does cr@p glue job).

OH, and welcome to the forums!

[Finnster]

Originally Posted by The Cow

I thought the monster was 200a... I could be wrong for sure however but i thought i read that on a post here... What would be a more amp happy Esc in your opinion?

Thanks for the input my friend :)

Heath

Well.. they won't say. Just "more then you can handle". Strange saying that when they visit RCM so often. If anyone can overpower it we can. :)

All I'm saying is that its a bit of an unknown. The things are barely out and working, plus that's a lot of power to ask of a 6S and stay cool no matter what. Really a HV setup is called for, but a 6S/mmm 1521 may do it. I wouldn't promise it tho.

I've got a nitro Muggy, and its a pig, esp if you want to keep the 40s. Great truck so far, but 60+ is a heck of a goal for that truck. There was a dude that had a 70+mph 17lbs XTM mammoth. It can be done, but I know his was a HV 1521 and tons and tons of watts. Google may help you here.

[The Cow]

Originally Posted by bdebde

I don't use RCM mount (made my own) but the finned can fits with even the smallest pinions (10t), The rcm mount should do the same.

Great news.... I could make one but the rc-monster looks nice... as long as it is good stock a mount is a mount

Originally Posted by bdebde

You will certainly need a 1521, I would steer clear of the 1D though (amp hog), The 1.5D or 1Y (my preference) would be better IMO. I think satttheman was getting about 60mph with the 1Y.

Awesome looks like i am on the right trail.... do you know if he was running 5 or 6s ? was there any heat issues? run times?

Originally Posted by bdebde

I too would be unsure the MMM would be the controller to use, still running the cr@p out of mine to see if it holds up. I really like my MGM, still trying to see if the MMM is enough to replace it. MGM has some new models coming out with some more features and 250 - 280 amp power handling.

Thats a bummer... i love the cc software but if itt cant do it then it cant do it... WHat would you say the options are? aprox prices? links? sorry for the million questions

Originally Posted by bdebde

If going for speed, I would certainly go for the evo 30 batts.

Evo 30 It is

Originally Posted by bdebde

Innovative_RC chassis is one stout chassis, I love mine.

Haven't had any need for the rpm arms; still have not broken a stock one yet.

The Muggy has 20mm hexes which are fine, but limit you to losi wheels. I also have the 23mm adapters for 40 series wheels/tires. Not too sure how the 40 series road rages are; I never liked the 2.2 or buggy size as they balooned like crazy. I also use 17mm hexes for HPI phaltline wheels/tires, and they work without any problems/stripping. You may want to go with the phaltlines if just running mainly on road, but do not get the pre-glued ones (HPI does cr@p glue job).

OH, and welcome to the forums!

Linkie for the phlatlines?

Thanks for taking the time to share!!! much appreciated....

THanks for the welcome too!

Heath

[Gooberseptember]

I have a converted muggy with 2.5d and mmm. The tires came out to be a tad over 4lbs and was causing some heat issues.

proline 23mm wheels and tires come in at about 10oz each.

I just order some 17mm prolines with dirtbuster tires for mine. (yes i know its now a truggy) LOL

[bdebde]

Originally Posted by The Cow

Great news.... I could make one but the rc-monster looks nice... as long as it is good stock a mount is a mount

Yeah, they were not ready yet when I did mine, they are nice mounts.

Originally Posted by The Cow

Awesome looks like i am on the right trail.... do you know if he was running 5 or 6s ? was there any heat issues? run times?

I believe he was running 6s (I would go 6s minimum), check his thread here

Originally Posted by The Cow

Thats a bummer... i love the cc software but if itt cant do it then it cant do it... WHat would you say the options are? aprox prices? links? sorry for the million questions

Well the new MGM's have nearly everything the MMM has(and some it doesn't). http://mgm-compro.com for info, should be in the RC-Monster store soon though.

Originally Posted by The Cow

Linkie for the phlatlines?

Tires and Wheels

[The Cow]

Thank you! much appreciated.... Off to check the links

Heath

[The Cow]

This looks about rite correct? have you ever used thier software? how does it compare to the cc... From the other post looks like i am on piont for my goals just need to address the ESc. If i go with the EVO30's and the 1521/1.5d this is alot more KV and he was doing 57 on 5cell..... Do you agree it would be best to over motor and esc and then detune through the software in hopes of keeping the sytem working easy while performing?

Thanks again for the input my friends

Heath




TMM 16025-3 Car / Boat Z-SERIES

Technical data Show DetailsHide Details
Controller for motors brushless
Reversible controller

Number of Li-Ion, Li-Pol feeding cells 2 - 6
Number of NiCd, NiMh feeding cells 6 - 18
Number of A123 feeding cells 3 -7
Compatible with any feeding cells
Operating voltage 6 - 25.5 V
Max. continuous current (for full throttle) 160 A
Max. peak current (peak 5 sec.) 200 A
Version BEC / Switching BEC / OPTO Switching BEC
BEC voltage 5 / 6 V
Max. BEC current at 25 °C 6 A
BEC short circuit protection
Number of regulation steps 1024
PWM frequency 8/16/32 kHz
On-state switch (FETs) resistance at 25 °C 2 × 0.35 m

Dimensions 50×31×17 mm 1.97×1.22×0.67 in
Dimensions with external capacitor 65×31×17 mm 2.56×1.22×0.67 in
Weight without power conductors 45 g 1.447 oz
Weight incl. all conductors 71 g 2.283 oz
Power conductors cross-section to batt. / to mot. 6/4 mm2 0.0093 in2
Length of the power conductors 110 mm 4.331 in
Servocable cross-section 0.25 mm2 0.0004 in2
Length of the servocable 190 mm 7.480 in

Design possibilities:
Possibility of design with external heatsinks
Possibility of design with water-cooled heatsinks
Possibility of design with external heatsinks + FAN
Possibility of "hydro" version
Possibility of design with switch (connected safely)

Programming and PC Cooperation Features:
Software updates available through internet
Programming using PC
Universal programming card
Programming using throttle stick
Reading-out of data from the controller using PC
Cooperates with Black Box (data logger)
ICS connector - communication with PC without manipulation with servocable

[bdebde]

Originally Posted by The Cow

This looks about rite correct? have you ever used thier software? how does it compare to the cc... From the other post looks like i am on piont for my goals just need to address the ESc. If i go with the EVO30's and the 1521/1.5d this is alot more KV and he was doing 57 on 5cell..... Do you agree it would be best to over motor and esc and then detune through the software in hopes of keeping the sytem working easy while performing?

Thanks again for the input my friends

Heath


...

The MGM software is not bad, it even gives you a readout of rpm, amps, volts, and max temp after a run.

I would just adjust your speed with gearing, and you can use the punch (on MMM) or accel time (MGM) to tame things down a bit.

[mk351e]

hey buddy pay careful attention to my posts, as they'll let you know what NOT to do.

The finned can 1521 will fit just fine, and is probably the way to go. I wanted my muggy to go 60+ also, that was until I realized just how fast that is, and how hard it is to keep the front wheels on the ground! Also, get LOTS of tire glue!!! You WILL need it! Can't say much about controllers, as the MMM is all I know, but Zippy batteries are supposed to be real good anc cheap too. FORGET the Road Rages for street use; they're WAAAAYYY too soft. You'll shred them up very quickly. Unfortunately, your only choice for street tires with this setup is really the HPI phaltlines, but as bdebde said, DO NOT(!!!!) buy the pre glued version!!!! Glue them yourself, and make sure you do a VERY VERY VERY good job!!! Also, I would avoid the chrome next time, because it just flakes off, and then they look very ugly.

Also, I bought the XTM 40 series wheels to mount dirt tires on, because they're the only other 17mm hub 40 series wheel, making it easy to use the hpi phaltlines for street. DO NOT buy these pieces of crap; I completely destroyed one the other day!! I have NEVER in all my years in this hobby, destroyed a rim. Just get used to changing hexes too.

BTW, I sure do love my muggy!! IMO, it's the perfect RC platform, though others may disagree.

[BL_RV0]

I hear the 30c enerland cells (flightpower, polyquest, etc....) are not as good as the 25c cells.