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suicideneil
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04.25.2008, 08:06 PM

I demand pictures.

That BEC looks rather good for the price, and the on/off switch is a great feature.
   
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  (#47)
lincpimp
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04.25.2008, 09:13 PM

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Originally Posted by suicideneil View Post
I demand pictures.

That BEC looks rather good for the price, and the on/off switch is a great feature.
My, aren't you getting needy Neil! HAHA

I will take some pics tomorrow, and see what happened to the front diff.
   
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MTBikerTim
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04.25.2008, 10:04 PM

Ahh that's right. I have to check the front diff in my nitro savage. I think it's toast.

How about pics and video linc. I wanna see the beast go.


Savage: FLM Conversion, 6s, MMM, CC 1520.
Mini-T Pro: Micro Pro 6800kv, Lipo, HS-81mg, Dirt Hawgs
M18MT: Quark 33A, Y22S 6000kv, FP 2s Lipo
LRP S8-BX: RC-M Conversion, Tekin RX8 B1600KV, 6S.
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lincpimp
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04.25.2008, 10:09 PM

I will talk to my buddy tonight and see if he can bring the camera tomorrow. I may try to set it up on a tripod and get a few long shots of my bashing area.

Hope i have the parts to fix the savage, may have to make a trip to the lhs!
   
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lincpimp
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04.26.2008, 05:38 PM

No video, my buddy had to get his mom out of the hospital (strained her fat or something like that) and it rained.

Found the problem, I run the HD center cvds, and the screw in pin in the front fell out. So the cvd was just spinning on the pinion shaft. Must have forgot the loctite! So my front diff did not grenade!

I rebuilt the front diff anyway, the ring gear was worn and slightly chipped. Inside the plastic diff cup looked fine too. I have no idea how old it was, most likely the original! I used stock hpi ring and pinion and the hpi alloy diff cup with the steel insterts. Added some ofna 5k diff fluid too.

The rear diff still has the 4 spider plastic cup in it, so I need to change that. I ordered another new ring and pinion as the lhs only had 1 set. I also shimmed the fron diff, and it seems fine in the plastic bulk, but we will see!

Heres some pics, the ferrite ring is that thing on the tranny case. Absolutely no glitching or range issues with this bec. Worked flawlessly, and did not get warm. My radio is a futaba 3pm, on 75mhz FM. Also got a shot of the RCM heatsink/clamp. It lowered the motor temps to around 140-150, so about 10-20 degrees. The esc ran cool too, not much over 120.







   
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  (#51)
BOOGIE444
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04.27.2008, 08:49 AM

Nice setup, I like how you use heat shrink tubing to attach the antenna wire to the side of the antenna tube, I do the same thing! I can never get my old beat up antenna wire to go through the tube, hell I cant get new wire to go through the tube either but thats another story
   
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lincpimp
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04.27.2008, 01:42 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BOOGIE444 View Post
Nice setup, I like how you use heat shrink tubing to attach the antenna wire to the side of the antenna tube, I do the same thing! I can never get my old beat up antenna wire to go through the tube, hell I cant get new wire to go through the tube either but thats another story
Well, if you put a little glass cleaner in the tube, it makes sliding the antenna wire through much easier.

That is actually masking tape I used, but I will try heatshrink now that you told me! I do have the wire in the tube, but there was alot of extra that I had sticking out, so I taped it to the side. I usually finalize my electronics mounting as I test a setup. I usually takes a dozen runs to get everything just the way I want it!
   
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ZAX
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05.03.2008, 02:55 PM

I really liked your motor mount I would like to copy it if you donīt mind?
What is the measurement of it??
   
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lincpimp
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05.03.2008, 03:04 PM

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Originally Posted by ZAX View Post
I really liked your motor mount I would like to copy it if you donīt mind?
What is the measurement of it??
Sure, I do not mind if you copy it. As for measurements, I will have to get them next time I take the truck apart. All I did was cut the al angle until it fit the space, and left enough room on either side for it to slide for gear adjustment. I then took the plate out and out the motor in with the pinion on it so that I could make a mark where the center shaft would have to be. I made the mark on the nitro motor plate, and then place the motor mount back in and transfered the mark to it. I used a 14t pinion, so I figured that that would be the about halfway between the smallest and largest pinions that I would want to use. So when I transfered the mak I made sure the motor mount was set in the middle of the adjustment slots. That way I had room to slide it close or father ways from the spur. Sounds more complicated than it is.
   
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  (#55)
BitHed
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01.08.2009, 02:16 AM

...pictures are blocked at work so subscribing so i can find it later on :D

...Sounds like you have it pretty sussed lincpimp...Good job...
   
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lincpimp
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01.08.2009, 02:49 AM

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Originally Posted by BitHed View Post
...pictures are blocked at work so subscribing so i can find it later on :D

...Sounds like you have it pretty sussed lincpimp...Good job...
Thanks, this truck is for sale actually... I just stopped running it and it is taking up space...
   
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  (#57)
BitHed
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01.08.2009, 11:47 AM

...finally got the pictures :D Clever motor mount LP Simple is best...Did you / would you consider making them for sale?
   
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