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  (#16)
e-rev project
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02.09.2010, 02:10 AM

ok i have a rc8t ft and mikes full conversion kit on the way. Is there anything in particular to pay attention to when building the kit(first 1/8th) the diffs say factory built, is that built well, or do i need to take them apart and shim them? any tips or problem areas to pay special attention too would be helpful to know about ahead of time. any special tools, new oils for diffs or shocks i need to have on hand

thanks all
   
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  (#17)
magman
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02.09.2010, 10:19 AM

Definately look at the diffs for propper shimming. I did not check my diffs when I bought my used truggy for propper shimming and paid the price. BL power as you know is not forgiving where as a nitro set up is a bit more forgiving. Shock oils I have on hand are 20, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50 and 55wt. I know that is a lot, but I have been collecting oils for a while and need that many for my 5 vehicles. I also have an assortment of diff oils for each vehicle. 2, 5, 7, 10, 12, 15, 20, 50, 100,000K. It seems a lot of people are running anywhere from 5-20K front and 10-50K in the center and 3-7K rear all depending on set up and individual driving style.

In my mbx5t I run 20K front, 20K center and 7K rear for diff fluid. This allows me almost no ballooning. If I were racing, I would drop down to a lower front diff oil for better steering, but, seeing as I only bash, not too worried about it.

Building a 1/8 kit is quite the project if you have not done it before...fun, but, time consuming. Not having to build the diffs is a nice plus. JUst make sure your drivetrain is free when done is another big area to watch for.

Don't forget the blue threadlock on any metal to metal parts..any easy oversight. Have fun and good luck!


1. MBX-6 T8 1900KV, RX8 ON 4S
2. MBX-5T 1520, MMM ON 5S
3. MBX-5 ONROAD CONVERSION 1515, MMM ON 5S
4. MRX-3 ON ROAD CONVERSION 1512, MMM ON 6S
5. TEN T 2650 T8, MMP ON 3S
   
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Old
  (#18)
e-rev project
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02.11.2010, 11:43 PM

so i went to my lhs and they had 10k 30k and 50k so i bought all 3. if i mix the 10k and 30k i would get 20k correct seems simple, would this work?
   
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  (#19)
jhautz
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02.13.2010, 02:59 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by e-rev project View Post
so i went to my lhs and they had 10k 30k and 50k so i bought all 3. if i mix the 10k and 30k i would get 20k correct seems simple, would this work?
http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_oil_mixer.html

This will help you get the 20 you are looking for by mixing.


I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...


Silent...But Deadly


   
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Old
  (#20)
e-rev project
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02.13.2010, 12:50 PM

wow, should have know Brian g would have something for that, thanks that's perfect
   
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  (#21)
e-rev project
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02.14.2010, 04:48 AM

ok, now i have some badlands mt size, what do the yellow dots on one side of the tire mean?
thanks
   
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  (#22)
simplechamp
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02.14.2010, 09:39 PM

Generally the colored dot on a tire will indicate the compound of rubber, e.g. is is softer or harder, suited for particular conditions, etc.
   
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  (#23)
jhautz
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02.14.2010, 09:42 PM

I think Badlands only come in XTR(hard) compound. Not really meant as a race tire. More of a general purpose long wearing tire.


I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...


Silent...But Deadly


   
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  (#24)
stum
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02.15.2010, 04:50 PM

You want a great truggy cheap, drop over to amainhobbies get the 8ight-t 1.0 tekno conversion kit, it's only 69 on deal and you can get the 8ight-t 1.0 or really 2.0 as long as you get all the same parts or even snag a used roller on ebay auctions and you'll be set super cheap. Keep in mind those kits come iwth a motor mount that is specific so you may need a different mount and it may pay to spend a few extra bucks and get the 8ight-t 2.0 tekno kit. I've run both the 8ight's the AE and a couple Mugens and I'll be sticking w/ my 8ight, though I may spend the bucks and get the 8ight-t 2.0 tekno kit and make a 8ight-t 1.5. We'll see...


8ight-e (B&T) MMM - Hyperion Lipos
Ofna Hyper SC 10 Pro - Medusa 4800kv

Last edited by stum; 02.15.2010 at 04:51 PM.
   
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