What is a Slipperential?

[Stealth_RT]

Originally Posted by pumpkinfish

Off topic, but Stealth, what receiver box do you have installed? I have been rigging up an RC8e box to fit my Mugen MBX-6 but yours looks like what I wanted from the get go.

It's an RC10GT2 gas truck receiver box. I made a new top cover for it out of plexiglass, from when I had it mounted on my RCM chassis. I'm back to the stock chassis, with new holes drilled to move the center diff over 3/8". The RCM chassis was awesome, except for the bodies not fitting well and not keeping the dirt out.

[superek4]

I was thinking to order some spares for my slip diff, wat will wear out first?

[jhautz]

Originally Posted by superek4

I was thinking to order some spares for my slip diff, wat will wear out first?

Good spares to have on hand IMO. Teflon rings, Slipper pads (both are considered consumable wear items) also not a bad idea to have an extra set of outdrives and extra gaskets.

[RC-Monster Mike]

Stealth(and others),
The Teflon bushing is the 1st point of wear - more slip will of course yield faster wear on this item - no way around it. We sell the replacements in packs of 3 for this reason. Anything that moves in conjunction with another part will wear of course. The wear items we suggest stocking are(in order of likely importance):
Teflon bushings
gaskets(possibly o-rings as well)
diff out drives(pending new out drives will fit typical bones better and last longer, but this is still a wear item)
Slipper pads
End caps(increased shaft angle will accelerate wear here - Losi 8 front for example)

The current outdrives accomodate a 9mm dogbone ball - this allows them to be used on the HPI Savage bones(and a few 1/8 truggies) and also "works" on the more typical 8mm bone. We are working on a harder, lightened out drive version with an 8mm outdrive bore for the more typical 1/8 center shafts. "one size fits all" was the intention initially. We are working on tweaks and will continue to do so. We are working on shimming scenarios for fitment in some larger diff openings, as well as other enhancements. The product will be tweaked and updated throughout is life, as every product is. :)

[superek4]

Originally Posted by RC-Monster Mike

Stealth(and others),
The Teflon bushing is the 1st point of wear - more slip will of course yield faster wear on this item - no way around it. We sell the replacements in packs of 3 for this reason. Anything that moves in conjunction with another part will wear of course. The wear items we suggest stocking are(in order of likely importance):
Teflon bushings
gaskets(possibly o-rings as well)
diff out drives(pending new out drives will fit typical bones better and last longer, but this is still a wear item)
Slipper pads
End caps(increased shaft angle will accelerate wear here - Losi 8 front for example)

The current outdrives accomodate a 9mm dogbone ball - this allows them to be used on the HPI Savage bones(and a few 1/8 truggies) and also "works" on the more typical 8mm bone. We are working on a harder, lightened out drive version with an 8mm outdrive bore for the more typical 1/8 center shafts. "one size fits all" was the intention initially. We are working on tweaks and will continue to do so. We are working on shimming scenarios for fitment in some larger diff openings, as well as other enhancements. The product will be tweaked and updated throughout is life, as every product is. :)

thx Mike

[brushlessboy16]

Slipper plates.

[superek4]

hi, do i need to loosen the screw wen i tighten the slip diff? It seems that i strip the screw holding the adjusting ring

[RC-Monster Mike]

Originally Posted by superek4

hi, do i need to loosen the screw wen i tighten the slip diff? It seems that i strip the screw holding the adjusting ring

If you are stripping the retaining screw on the adjustment nut, you are probably tightening it too much. The thrust bearing removes the twisting force from the nut in use, so it will keep its adjustment pretty well(tested it without a cinching nut, actually). You only need to "snug" the adjustment nut screw to retain the setting. If you use threadlock on it, use a very small amount. You must loosen this screw to make adjustments, and snug it back down when adjustment is complete(this is in the instructions that came with the unit and linked by brushlessboy16). :)

[superek4]

Originally Posted by RC-Monster Mike

If you are stripping the retaining screw on the adjustment nut, you are probably tightening it too much. The thrust bearing removes the twisting force from the nut in use, so it will keep its adjustment pretty well(tested it without a cinching nut, actually). You only need to "snug" the adjustment nut screw to retain the setting. If you use threadlock on it, use a very small amount. You must loosen this screw to make adjustments, and snug it back down when adjustment is complete(this is in the instructions that came with the unit and linked by brushlessboy16). :)

Yes but now I must figure a way how to remove d screw:(

[brushlessboy16]

See Here..

[Mozzy]

Is it a Leopard motor by chance?

You're right about your set up, it sounds just fine.

If I were you, I would try a different motor.
I heard from a guy that bought a Leopard motor (not saying yours is) & it heated up the wires & was running well within it's limit, but, it ended up frying his ESC for some reason. He has never discovered why nor has had the opportunity to run a different motor for testing on his now toasted ESC's.

Just some ideas I thought I should throw out there.

[jamesban]

It is a leopard motor but the motor doesn't really get hot at all. I dont have the money for another motor but can possibly try it sometime in the future.

Originally Posted by Mozzy

Is it a Leopard motor by chance?

You're right about your set up, it sounds just fine.

If I were you, I would try a different motor.
I heard from a guy that bought a Leopard motor (not saying yours is) & it heated up the wires & was running well within it's limit, but, it ended up frying his ESC for some reason. He has never discovered why nor has had the opportunity to run a different motor for testing on his now toasted ESC's.

Just some ideas I thought I should throw out there.

[Mozzy]

Well, funny you mention the motor never heats up, this guy's motor never did either. Just the wires.

Perhaps you have a mate that could let you try one of his motors?

If you use it & the wires don't heat up, you know where the problem lies.

Good luck with it.

[JERRY2KONE]

Hot wires could also be caused by other issues as well. Bad solder joint, lose connection, or maybe you have a nearly invisible short some place. Make youself a list of possible causes and go through your entire system one by one (simplest first) until you run into the likely culprit. Swapping out equipment may not always be the most viable solution, but it is the easiest way to eliminate components one by one as the problem. If you try another motor and things still heat up, than the motor is likely not your faulty link in the chain.

[jamesban]

I dont have the money for another motor :( I can go through and look for bad solder joints though.