losi 5ive-T conversion pics

[magman]

Well thanks for the updates. You mentioned chassis flex as did I. With a chassis that long it will still flex but w/AL braces I am wondering if it will flex in the wrong places if you know what I am driving at.

You have the batts very forward, how did it handle? Would any benefit come from moving them back a bit? Just curious.

Maybe someday I will get one...just have to save for awhile as it is not cheap. Electronics alone are $ 600+

Hopefully Losi will offer it as a roller some day...maybe?

[auto2]

batterys are in same place as gas tank was and it was a large tank. 800cc?
it flys perfect and is very controlable in the air. just picture a 30 pound losi 8t 2.0.. seriouslly.
if the track ever drys out ill get a vid. snowed 3 inches last night which isnt helping.
the one time i had it on the track it seemed to crash more often. maybe cause i was going twice as fast? it never stops roosting the tires on a 200 foot straight. motor is running COLD! 17 pinion is almost too fast for the track but going by motor temp i can gear it up a lot. so now were talking 50 mph or more?

[auto2]

im not messing with the flex it seems fine as is. maybe a flat brace where the motor was? so chassis thinks the motor is still there lol.
nothing is breaking,bending.
aluminum braces will just move the flex to someware else.

battery tray has like 7 screws in it also.

[Jony Nitro]

Looks good I would motor to sit were the lipo are and then run saddle lipo, does look good

[Overdriven]

Originally Posted by Jony Nitro

Looks good I would motor to sit were the lipo are and then run saddle lipo, does look good

You could flip the current mount and center diff, then the motor would be where the gas tank used to be and the battery tray is now. Dont know if theres enough room for the 2028 up there though. A mirror image mount would be better and would be put the motor in the center. Saddle packs might have a bit better balance then. I still think this is the best layout I've seen, balanced and simple with a single battery tray. If it was mine I might cut the esc mount off the tray or just figure a way to move the esc towards the center a bit more.

There are two other kits out. Kershaw is selling someone else's kit that has the motor in the center (where gas engine was) with lipos where the gas tank was (like rc-m). That's alot of lipo weight on the left side and the motor is not helping balance it out being in the center of the chassis. Saddle packs would definitely help in this case.

Skopod has a kit with the motor where the gas engine used to be too (in center), and the esc mounted directly behind. Theirs uses saddle packs, but the trays are mounted really fad out on the chassis, I believe they're actually on the mudguards. Looks balanced, but the trays should be inboard more, too much polar movement (is that the right term?) being so far from center of chassis.

Looks like RC-M wins again!!

[Overdriven]

Since saddle packs were brought up I was just discussing layouts. It may be a prototype, but it still has the others beat IMO. Tray size is a minor revision either way, especially for Mike.

[Cain]

darn I wish this firewall would let me see your picks!

Was curious how this had been working out for you. Glad to hear it is going well.

You have me toying with the idea of doing a conversion for the MCD I have. Considering how much MCD likes to charge for their parts, I bet RCM or someone else could do a conversion for less than half the cost.

[RC-Monster Mike]

The mirrored mount strategy wouldn't work with this Losi(any of them, really) - the center diff is quite a ways off center, which angles the front-center drive shaft quite a bit and would severely limit gearing possibilities. The ESC placement was for left/right weight balance. The diff, motor, steering servo and radio box are all right-side-mounted, so the battery tray, esc and batteries in their current location created a near-perfect balance using a pair of 5400 4s Hyperion packs as a baseline(figured most would opt for 8s and at least 5kmah capacity). The V2 tray should be done tomorrow, which is just slightly longer and wider to accomodate a wider variety of pack combinations. I may do a few "other" layouts as well - the HK 8000mah packs are huge, so a strategy that allows a pair laid down with the ESC directly behind the center diff may be an option.

I have seen the other 2 options - don't think either is as well thought out or balanced as my kit(my biased opinion of course) and both are likely much more expensive(the one Kershaw is offering is 2x the price). :)

[Jony Nitro]

Yes your kit is cheaper,and better, but how would I Run 14s in theory?and I was thinking about wiring? do you think saddle would be any good?if it could be achieved,

[RC-Monster Mike]

First, you would need a 14s ESC and a 14s motor capable of powering the truck. A pair of 7s packs(Hyperion, for example) will fit the battery tray, though you would need longer straps. I don't see how you would need more wiring or wiring difficulty - the motor and esc and batteries are all near each other on the chassis and a pair of 7s packs wires up the same as a pair of 4s packs. The theoretical 14s setup will create the same challenge on any configuration not designed for your specific(theoretical) setup - nothing is really "one size fits all", but we try for "one size fits most". :)

[Jony Nitro]

Originally Posted by RC-Monster Mike

First, you would need a 14s ESC and a 14s motor capable of powering the truck. A pair of 7s packs(Hyperion, for example) will fit the battery tray, though you would need longer straps. I don't see how you would need more wiring or wiring difficulty - the motor and esc and batteries are all near each other on the chassis and a pair of 7s packs wires up the same as a pair of 4s packs. The theoretical 14s setup will create the same challenge on any configuration not designed for your specific(theoretical) setup - nothing is really "one size fits all", but we try for "one size fits most". :)

I have all the above electrics

14s do weigh heavier, thats why i was asking about saddle aswell

Jon

[RC-Monster Mike]

Originally Posted by Jony Nitro

I have all the above electrics

14s do weigh heavier, thats why i was asking about saddle aswell

Jon

Then it isn't a theory now, is it? Does the ESC have car firmware and brakes? If not, you would need another servo, servo mount, etc. as well. Without good car firmware, startup leaves a bit to be desired as well. The mount is only one hole away from accepting mechanical brakes, and the stock brake disc will work with the 2028 motor and an 18t pinion or larger(could also trim the disc to allow smaller pinions). The setup shown here is ideal and will work for most without any additonal complexities. For your 14s setup, you may need to do something differently - I guess you maybe already knew that, though(14s in itself is out of the ordinary - I have a 1:1 electric dirt bike that runs on 14s so maybe it is a little overkill for this car?!). :)

[Arct1k]

And balls of steel to plug the batteries in :)

14s would be more of an arc than a spark...

[auto2]

if u talk to guys that have been using high voltage in their planes I think u will come to the conclusion that 8s is by far the best bang for the buck and more is unnessary.blipping the throttle with 50 volts floating around is not for the guy on a fixed salary

[Jony Nitro]

Originally Posted by Arct1k

And balls of steel to plug the batteries in :)

14s would be more of an arc than a spark...

very big indeed,my lipos did touch oneday whoosh