BL Xray M18!!! - RC-Monster Forums

lutach · 09.23.2007, 01:55 PM

Instructions pictures.

lutach · 09.23.2007, 01:56 PM

Some more LOL.

lutach · 09.23.2007, 02:42 PM

Here are some pictures of the MLST I'll be using to test the ESC.

lincpimp · 09.23.2007, 03:01 PM

I will do a write up of how to prevent the internal gears from stripping. I had the same problem and cured it easily. The viscous diffs are the best available for the mlst. All of the others I tried were junk. I have a bunch of mlst diff parts, pm if interested, I will let them go cheap as I have no use for them now. Give me a few hours and I will post up a tutorial on the viscous diffs.

lincpimp · 09.23.2007, 04:36 PM

Heres a little how-to on the viscous diffs. The reason the spider gears crap out is because of the o-rings that seal the output shafts. If you take apart the diff you will notice that the output spider gears are keyed to the diff output by means of a small pin, like how a hex is keyed to an drive shaft. The problem is that the thin steel washer that backs the pin is directly on top of the o-ring that seals the fluid in the diff. When the diff spins fast the thin washer is pressed on by the pin. The washer is too thin to stop the pin bending it, and when it folds up it cuts the o ring and lets the output shaft disengage the pin from the output spider gear. My fix was to remove the o-ring and repalce it with steel washers, this also allowed me to shim the spider gears so that they would mesh correctly. Of course this required the use of grease instead of silicone fluid since the diffs were no longer sealed. The washers I used were rc18t wheel washers, linked below. I used 2 per side of the diff to replace the o-rings and it set the mesh tight, but after about 5mins the gears wore in together and I never had a problem again. I used tamiya ceramic grease to lube it up.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJHR8&P=7

lutach · 09.23.2007, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lincpimp

Heres a little how-to on the viscous diffs. The reason the spider gears crap out is because of the o-rings that seal the output shafts. If you take apart the diff you will notice that the output spider gears are keyed to the diff output by means of a small pin, like how a hex is keyed to an drive shaft. The problem is that the thin steel washer that backs the pin is directly on top of the o-ring that seals the fluid in the diff. When the diff spins fast the thin washer is pressed on by the pin. The washer is too thin to stop the pin bending it, and when it folds up it cuts the o ring and lets the output shaft disengage the pin from the output spider gear. My fix was to remove the o-ring and repalce it with steel washers, this also allowed me to shim the spider gears so that they would mesh correctly. Of course this required the use of grease instead of silicone fluid since the diffs were no longer sealed. The washers I used were rc18t wheel washers, linked below. I used 2 per side of the diff to replace the o-rings and it set the mesh tight, but after about 5mins the gears wore in together and I never had a problem again. I used tamiya ceramic grease to lube it up.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJHR8&P=7

That is exactly what I did to mine. I did buy ball diffs and I will install them as soon as they come in. I went through 2 sets of viscous and a few sets of that weak side gear all shimmed and greased. I'll let you know how the ball diffs are compared to the viscous.

lincpimp · 09.23.2007, 05:48 PM

Good luck, I wil stand by my reasoning that the mlst is junk, it is fine with the stock motors, but just can't handle brushless power. I sold mine for about a 1/4 of what i had in it cause I was just sick of fixing it. Loved the way the truck handled and looked, just had a crappy drivetrain.