Castle HV Hydra, but where is the car version!!!!

[lutach]

Look at what Joe said:

http://www.rumrunnerracing.com/fefor...37&postcount=9

[lutach]

It is very strange for someone to say that. He should look at how many people have bought the Mambax Max and I know a few places who ran out of stock on them. Which means we the consumer bought the whole production of the MM. Why isn't Castle listening? They should have a vote system at the website to see how many people would buy a HV 240A car version. To be honest, that is not a very wise way to do business. I would never allow a employee to say anything close to that if I owned Castle.

[BP-Revo]

Originally Posted by lutach

It is very strange for someone to say that. He should look at how many people have bought the Mambax Max and I know a few places who ran out of stock on them. Which means we the consumer bought the whole production of the MM. Why isn't Castle listening? They should have a vote system at the website to see how many people would buy a HV 240A car version. To be honest, that is not a very wise way to do business. I would never allow a employee to say anything close to that if I owned Castle.

Personally I like the fact that Joe acknowledges that we are going to try to use stuff out of spec and tries to help us with it anyhow. I hate calling up companies CS and ask "if I did this, how would it turn out?" and get "it is not covered under warranty" as the only reply...At least Joe says "well if you do that I'd do this to prevent this, but just so you know, if you do blow it its not under warranty when being ran like that."

I do, however, find it true that a very small, select group of the RC population, basically the users of this forum (which is very small even in comparison to just the electric RC population, in fact), are going to run anything more than 6S on a very consistent basis. And I still haven't even ventured past running 4S on any of my vehicles.

BUT - and a huge BUT here. I think at the very least CC should take Pheonix HV controller, give it some car programming, and up the current rating to at least 150amps, and make it available. It wouldn't hard to do (they just have to wire more fets in to add amp rating - its basically what they did to make the 110 in the first place). The only hitch they should imply is that mechanical brakes are REQUIRED. To be safe they could call it a 10S max ESC and that would be fine too.

[lincpimp]

Hey, at least they are bringing out HV controllers. The boat guys are crazy, if you look around you will see that they are running the huge lehner and neu motors on ridiculous voltages in tiny boats! A guy did 140 in a park pond with an outrigger for petes sake. I have played with the non-HV hydra and it is a nice controller, can handle 6s and the water cooling does help the heat issues. My 45 mph supervee running lipo and the stock esc/motor does not even get warm. I think that the car controllers are the most difficult to get right due to the massive current spikes and partial throttle running. Air cooling tends to be much less efficent than water cooling. Imagine how cool a car esc would run with a constant flow of 60f air over it. Larger capps seem to help with the heat issue due to partial load, but even they heat up eventually. And we have to remember that not everyone is crazy enought to buy 10s worth of lipos to test out a theory!

[lutach]

I've been running HV for a while now. My first HV (Not like HV to current standards) was 12 cells NiCd with my old Aveox system. Most of my HV set up (When I'm not trying to break 100MPH LOL) runs cool due to less AMPs required for an HV system to run. I will put together my HV buggy and run a SPIN 75. I will not use my Jazz 55 mainly because a member have posted great numbers from it in another thread.

[Finnster]

Originally Posted by lutach

Look at what Joe said:

http://www.rumrunnerracing.com/fefor...37&postcount=9

Would you mind quoting that in this post? I can't access that from here, but I can pretty mcuh guess what was said from the replies.


I am now running an HV system w/ my MGM and its awesome. Just bc you run 8-10S doesn't mean its automatically high power, it just depends on the amp draw, and if done properly the efficiency is huge and the system stays super cool. I can run mine WOT thru long grass non-stop for the entire pack and the whole system barely gets warm. Its so freaking cool (literally and figuratively) compared to the 8XL system I had before where I had to watch temps and worry about pushing the system too hard.

The efficiency of my system is 94-95% according to Neu's motor calc and my ET data. Compare this to my XL system that was at best 75% eff. I have an amp draw of 45A max, but way more powerful than my 8XL drawing nearly 120A on half the cell count (notice that would equate to 90A is eff were the same, that ~30A diff is wasted as heat.) Even tho my system is "only" 1300W, its actually putting out more usable power than my 1600W XL system.

On top of all that, that means better runtime, smaller batts needed, lighter weight. Instead of buying a 4s2p batt, run it 8S1P and get better results. For extreme speed I'll get a 10S1P 2100 batt, weighs less than 550g, and puts out the equiv of a 2600+W XL system. I don't think I would want to run less than 8S again.

[lutach]

Originally Posted by Finnster

Would you mind quoting that in this post? I can't access that from here, but I can pretty mcuh guess what was said from the replies.


I am now running an HV system w/ my MGM and its awesome. Just bc you run 8-10S doesn't mean its automatically high power, it just depends on the amp draw, and if done properly the efficiency is huge and the system stays super cool. I can run mine WOT thru long grass non-stop for the entire pack and the whole system barely gets warm. Its so freaking cool (literally and figuratively) compared to the 8XL system I had before where I had to watch temps and worry about pushing the system too hard.

The efficiency of my system is 94-95% according to Neu's motor calc and my ET data. Compare this to my XL system that was at best 75% eff. I have an amp draw of 45A max, but way more powerful than my 8XL drawing nearly 120A on half the cell count (notice that would equate to 90A is eff were the same, that ~30A diff is wasted as heat.) Even tho my system is "only" 1300W, its actually putting out more usable power than my 1600W XL system.

On top of all that, that means better runtime, smaller batts needed, lighter weight. Instead of buying a 4s2p batt, run it 8S1P and get better results. For extreme speed I'll get a 10S1P 2100 batt, weighs less than 550g, and puts out the equiv of a 2600+W XL system. I don't think I would want to run less than 8S again.

Here is what Joe Said:

"I'll work on the Hydra HV pics gents...not sure if we have some ready or if I'll have to snap some when the pallets get back from IHobby. Those who want a 12s car version are going to have to do an AWFUL LOT of begging to get that. The Monster Max will be good for 6s and 200A...that should be good for nearly all apps...1/10 monster, 1/8th scale buggy (possibly truggy). About the only thing it wouldn't cover is 1/5th buggies like the Baja, and other crazy scratch built vehicles like I saw at IHobby this past weekend in IL....but I'm sure you guys will try it anyways. Let me know how it goes.
__________________
www.castlecreations.com"

I love my cool running HV set up. It is amazing that the only thing I have to watch for are my diffs and shafts LOL. Like you said the efficiency is up there and everything runs cool when geared right.

[lutach]

I don't know what he meant by begging, but it has been over 2 yrs that people have waited for the MMM and almost the same amount of time for people asking for a HV system for cars. That comment by Joe is not right from my point of view. I don't know what other members here thinks, but I didn't like it. What is he trying to say? We are not good enough for HV Castle goodies.

[Finnster]

WOW.... I mean, WOW....

I can think of a new acronym for Serum to add to the list..they can GFTS.
Maybe that one won't make the list.

I'm not going to beg for @#$&. They can build it or they can not. There are plenty of other companies making HV controllers. MGM, Kontronic, etc to name a few that have been proven to work here already.

We've been "begging" for CC to fix the Neu motor cogging on the MM, and they have yet to ablige that, to make their controller work properly. How's that going?

If the MMM is only going to do 6S, then I have no use for one. I don't need 200A controller. What, am I going to buy 6S 10000mah 20c batts? i don't think so. As far as I can see, that will be no better than the MGM 16018, w/ hopefully better reverse software, and easier service in the US. A 70-100A 10-12S controller from CC would be sweet, then again I already have one and I bet would have better luck "begging" MGM to tweak the reverse software.