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VintageMA
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07.08.2008, 07:45 PM

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Originally Posted by MTBikerTim View Post
Hehe. I bought the M18MT last night. Was up putting it together until 2am last night. It's a cool car for sure. Now I wan't the M18T Pro lol. Still have to put this one through some torture tests though.
Great little vehicle for sure. I have both the M18T and the M18T Pro and with the graphite chassis and lightness is is almost too light - but it is sooooo silky smooth and slick looking you almost don't want to run it and beat it up.

I've been beating on my M18T for about a year and a half and I have yet to break anything.

As far as a previous complaint about the ball diffs, I don't really see that as a valid complaint. If you follow the directions in the manual and break them in - the is almost no maintenance. I've never had to rebuild them yet. Adjusting them takes removing a wheel and one screw and them a quick twist of a screwdriver - takes maybe 3 minutes.

Also, xray's build tolerances are so tight that there is no shimming the diffs all the time to get the mesh "just right". The mesh is perfect right at the build.

I've pushed this thing with 3S and a LMT 1015/12 (6667kv) and it hasn't flinched.


“Everyone has a right to be stupid; some people just abuse the privilege.”
   
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MTBikerTim
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07.08.2008, 09:24 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by VintageMA View Post
Great little vehicle for sure. I have both the M18T and the M18T Pro and with the graphite chassis and lightness is is almost too light - but it is sooooo silky smooth and slick looking you almost don't want to run it and beat it up.

I've been beating on my M18T for about a year and a half and I have yet to break anything.

As far as a previous complaint about the ball diffs, I don't really see that as a valid complaint. If you follow the directions in the manual and break them in - the is almost no maintenance. I've never had to rebuild them yet. Adjusting them takes removing a wheel and one screw and them a quick twist of a screwdriver - takes maybe 3 minutes.

Also, xray's build tolerances are so tight that there is no shimming the diffs all the time to get the mesh "just right". The mesh is perfect right at the build.

I've pushed this thing with 3S and a LMT 1015/12 (6667kv) and it hasn't flinched.
So even the plastic drive shafts hold up to 3s power?

I love this little car. This was my first kit car. Building it was fun but the number of times I put those balls in the suspension in the wrong way or the wrong place was huge. I wasted a couple of hours just stuffing that up.

And sammus my friend has a mini-lst2 and we put a 7000k wraith, quark 33a and a 3s 2000mah thunder power pack in it and we have broken just about every part of that truck except the font and rear diffs. The centre diff broke almost instantly and he put a mip mini-lst centre diff in there. He has since gone to a 2s pack though now as the tranny couldn't handle the power and it used to get pretty hot too. I would definately recommend the M18MT over the MLST as the MLST2 is just so heavy. That's the main reason the tranny won't hold up to the power.


Savage: FLM Conversion, 6s, MMM, CC 1520.
Mini-T Pro: Micro Pro 6800kv, Lipo, HS-81mg, Dirt Hawgs
M18MT: Quark 33A, Y22S 6000kv, FP 2s Lipo
LRP S8-BX: RC-M Conversion, Tekin RX8 B1600KV, 6S.
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