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jhautz
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05.05.2008, 02:48 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Arct1k View Post
Jeff - your could save almost 2.5oz by going for a 1509 I'm sure it would still have enough torque - Also direct solder the motor leads to save the connectors - must be another oz.... That should take you to under 7...
Yea, I thought about getting rid of the connectors, but I prefer the ease of maintenance to be able to just unplug them. Also allows for easier testing of different motors. I tend to tinker quite a bit and swap motors around from model to model just to see what I get.

I do have a Lehner 1930/10 that I was thinking about dropping in to see if it could work. I did have it running in my CEN buggy for a while but ultimately decided that it was just a tad undersized to run cool enough for my liking. But that buggy was around 9lbs so I was thinking I would give it a try in this one considering its almost 2 lbs lighter. It might be perfect and would save me a little over 50 grams. Also, I used a spare EC center dif top plate that is aluminum instead of the 808 one that is plastic. Could probably save 20 grams there and then I could cut the carbon fiber steering servo top plate from the 808 and replace the aluminum one from the RCM conversion and save a little. I could get rid of the ESC mount that I have and mount it flat to the chassis behind the motor and save a little more as well. I just might be able to get there if I try hard enough. But in reality.... its already plenty light. The extra few ounces probably wont make much difference in the real world. At least none that I would be able to notice.


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VintageMA
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05.05.2008, 03:21 PM

Jeff - how does the 808 compare to the XB8EC?

Also - they've gone to a 42T spur standard? You've gotta be up around 45-48 with that gearing at least, no?

I ran my XB8EC this weekend with the same motor battery combo of 5S on 1512/2.5d with a 15/48 gearing and clocked 47mph when the batteries were fresh.


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Arct1k
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05.05.2008, 03:35 PM

The motor connectors suggestion was a bit tongue in cheek but the CF top plate & servo mount and chassis mounted ESC sound easy...

With the motor change achieving under 7 lbs sounds like it should come easily without compromising practicality at all.

Go for it... ROAR

Last edited by Arct1k; 05.05.2008 at 03:37 PM.
   
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jhautz
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05.05.2008, 03:35 PM

Roar rules are minimum weight of 3200 grams (7.05 lbs.) anyway. Not that this thing conforms to ROAR rules being electric, but its pretty much as light as it needs to be.


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jhautz
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05.05.2008, 04:29 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by VintageMA View Post
Jeff - how does the 808 compare to the XB8EC?

Also - they've gone to a 42T spur standard? You've gotta be up around 45-48 with that gearing at least, no?

I ran my XB8EC this weekend with the same motor battery combo of 5S on 1512/2.5d with a 15/48 gearing and clocked 47mph when the batteries were fresh.
The EC is a really nice buggy too. I still love mine. The only problem I ever had with it was it was almost too adjustable. So many difffernt adjustable settings that I didnt know where to start with it. Most of them never got touched cuz I didint know what I was doing with them. The 808 is a bit more simplified as far as adjustments. they say it "optimized" so you dont neeed all of the adjustment. This is good in my opinion. The shocks that Xray did for this buggy are absolutely works of art. Super smooth and finally threaded preload adjusters I havent driven it enough yet to really give a good opinion on how it handles compared to my EC, but the short test runs I did were definately encouraging feeling.

It uses a 42T center gear, but it uses 10/43 truggy ratio difs to make up for the taller center gearing. Its geared for around 40-42 mph now. The small center gear and offset center dif mount is an effort to move the nitro motor closer to the centerline of the chassis. The cool thing is it also allows the battery to move closer to the center.

In reality the 808 and the EC are totally different buggies. There are very few parts that are interchnagable between the 2.


I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...


Silent...But Deadly



Last edited by jhautz; 05.05.2008 at 04:31 PM.
   
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nl12
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05.06.2008, 05:13 PM

is there room under the body for a 6s lipo pack approximatly 53 mm thick?
   
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Backfire
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05.06.2008, 08:11 PM

With my 4S 5000mAh pack mounted as far forward as possible, I had to place about 2mm in shims below the front body mount to clear the body. I use the RCM battery tray mounted directly to the chassis and side guard. With a custom tray you could lower it a bit, but not much more. The 4s Flightpower pack is listed with the following dimensions: 35MM/44MM/166MM. If I had the battery tray about 2-3cm further back, I would probably not need the shims. But to fit a 53mm tall pack under the body without raising it might be pretty tough. The stock body fits pretty low and snug.

Last edited by Backfire; 05.07.2008 at 02:01 AM.
   
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MTBikerTim
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05.06.2008, 08:30 PM

That is so nice. Makes me want one really badly. I might get something a bit cheaper though first.


Savage: FLM Conversion, 6s, MMM, CC 1520.
Mini-T Pro: Micro Pro 6800kv, Lipo, HS-81mg, Dirt Hawgs
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jhautz
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05.07.2008, 04:49 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by nl12 View Post
is there room under the body for a 6s lipo pack approximatly 53 mm thick?

Depending on what pack you are using you could potentially turn it on its side and have a lower height dimension. I have a 5s 6000mah Polyquest psck that is 54 x 46. Its 54 tall when the cells are flat, but if I turn the pack so the edge of the cells are down its only 46 tall. I made my own tray with 2 sets of screw holes so I could make the tray either 46mm wide of 54 mm wide. It alows me to run my 4350 5s packs for the quialifiers or a 20 minute or less main, and I adjust the tray wider so the 6000 pack fits in in a 54mm wide and 46mm tall configuration if the main is 30 minutes. I needed 3mm under the front body post to make that work, but it looks like it should be good. If this is the size pack you will be planning to run you could have Mike make you a custom trray that is 54mm and just put the pack in on its side to lower the overall height.


I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...


Silent...But Deadly


   
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  (#40)
nl12
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05.07.2008, 09:25 PM

The pack I was thinking of using is the neu 30/60c 5000mah 6s, it measures 52.8 x 45.5 x 166 so putting it on its side would be a fair option, I want to get a MMM but I need something to run it in that can handle 6s. I just want to run as many watts as I can through a lightweight platform. I want the best power to weight ratio, I am not sure what I would be better off using a smaller lighter setup like 4s 1512 neu or 6s and 1515 or 1512, or a 3s 1509 setup (on paper a 3s 5000 mah 30c continous pack can put out over 1600 watts)
   
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  (#41)
Tekno_Addict
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08.13.2008, 04:33 AM

Hey everyone, I tried searching but I couldn't find exactly what I was looking for. I was wondering if you all could tell me what I need to modify to get either the Novak XB8 conversion kit to work with the 808 or the RC-Monster Motor mount/battery tray.

I know something is different but what needs to be done to those XB8 conversion to get them to work on the 808. Thanks!
   
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yuri
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08.13.2008, 06:37 AM

I´m using RC-Monster motor mount for XB8 on my 808, I had to dremell a bit of the mudguard for it to fit and also shimmed 2mm up the stock center differential mount that was left because the center diff is 2mm lower one the 808, some people just buy the XB8 center diff mount and use it since it´s already 2mm taller.
   
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Tekno_Addict
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08.13.2008, 11:04 AM

Thanks yuri! I appreciate the info... I think I'll just get the center diff mount for the xb8 and call it a day. Why did you need to dremell the mud-guard? Does the motor mount hit it?
   
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yuri
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08.13.2008, 05:37 PM

Yes it does, you can see it in post #22 in this same thread.
   
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jhautz
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08.13.2008, 05:50 PM

I believe the part number you want is xray 354011. Thats the one that is the right hight to match the RCM Xray Mount. The others are all lower than this one.


I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...


Silent...But Deadly


   
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