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BrianG
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09.05.2008, 10:19 AM

Here's some reading for ya!

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7130

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5976
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VintageMA
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09.05.2008, 11:59 AM

Regarding the CC motors: I think the winds that CC is recommending are just too high for the # of lipo S. They are pushing every configuration right to the edge of the motor's rpm limit in what they recommend.

I don't really think that is smart as it it going to cause a lot of inexperienced people a lot of heat issues.

When I had gotten a CC 36xx motor and had heat issues I called CC tech and they told me to just keep gearing down till the heat problem went away - and that I couldn't even gear with the stock gearing of the vehicle. This was a 1/10 on-road and with the gearing they wanted me to use it would've just been as slow as stock BL motor it came with which was a Novak SS5800 (a very mild BL motor). Anyway - within a few runs I manage to temp the motor up to about 250* and it ended up in the garbage - total piece of horrible garbage junk motor. (Some people doing okay with them, but I would never buy the garbage CC junk 36xx motors ever again).

I am now specing out my purchases on Neu motors for about 38-40K rpm based on nominal 3.7v/cell rating. I feel this gives a nice balance of slightly higher than nitro motor top rpms with the ability to keep around the stock nitro gearing and be just a little faster without any heat problems. This also gives a little headroom to gear down for faster speeds as well.

If all you want to do is speed runs by all means go for the faster setups.

********************

As far as the Y-winds go - after doing a lot of reading my biggest question is how do we know which direction of rotation is the more efficient? Will it always be clockwise? I really don't mind flipping my fr/rr diffs around if necessary, but would just like to know to proper rotational direction.


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Pdelcast
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09.05.2008, 12:15 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by VintageMA View Post
When I had gotten a CC 36xx motor and had heat issues I called CC tech and they told me to just keep gearing down till the heat problem went away - and that I couldn't even gear with the stock gearing of the vehicle. This was a 1/10 on-road and with the gearing they wanted me to use it would've just been as slow as stock BL motor it came with which was a Novak SS5800 (a very mild BL motor). Anyway - within a few runs I manage to temp the motor up to about 250* and it ended up in the garbage - total piece of horrible garbage junk motor. (Some people doing okay with them, but I would never buy the garbage CC junk 36xx motors ever again).
Huh? What?

That's not right -- any of the CM36 motors will DESTROY an SS5800. There must have been something wrong with the motor you had (shorted winding probably...)

We run 1/10 onroad at over 70mph with CM36 motors, and they stay really cool. (CM36-7700s and CM36-6900s)

Patrick


Patrick del Castillo
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Castle Creations
   
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VintageMA
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09.05.2008, 01:45 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pdelcast View Post
Huh? What?

That's not right -- any of the CM36 motors will DESTROY an SS5800. There must have been something wrong with the motor you had (shorted winding probably...)

We run 1/10 onroad at over 70mph with CM36 motors, and they stay really cool. (CM36-7700s and CM36-6900s)

Patrick
Patrick - no disrespect meant by the comment, but I had terrible luck with that motor. I love all the other Castle products and had no problem with the 68xx series of motors or any of the Mamba25, MM, and even the MMM v1 controllers (I have two still running fine on 6S with the BEC and no mods - I've gotten crap stuck in the fan and it still works fine).

I got the 4600 and ran it on 3S and it shot to about 240* in under 2 minutes and nearly puffed the lipos they were so hot.

Needless to say, the motor didn't work for me, but everything else CC has worked fine. :)


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Pdelcast
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09.05.2008, 12:16 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by VintageMA View Post
As far as the Y-winds go - after doing a lot of reading my biggest question is how do we know which direction of rotation is the more efficient? Will it always be clockwise? I really don't mind flipping my fr/rr diffs around if necessary, but would just like to know to proper rotational direction.

Either direction of rotation is just as efficient as the other with a sensorless controller. With sensors, there is only one efficient direction.


Patrick del Castillo
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Castle Creations
   
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