This is not Good

[E-Revonut]

George16 - You lengthened the wires on the switch? why? Your best bet would have been to cut the switch off, twist the wires together and solder them! I used the switch at first, then it cost me a chance at being a contender at the RC-M Bash! The switch was turned off twice in the main, I had to run out on the track flip it on and run back to the drivers stand.

[Lee Estingoy]

If you have a V2 Monster I'd really suggest that you DON'T lengthen the wires on the switch. This may cause some serious damage to the BEC chip.

Have you just checked to see if indeed there is a short between the barrel and the heatsink? Very easy to do with a voltmeter, a battery, basic stuff that you should have laying around. Much easier to check than to speculate on a forum like this....

Lee

[George16]

Originally Posted by Lee Estingoy

If you have a V2 Monster I'd really suggest that you DON'T lengthen the wires on the switch. This may cause some serious damage to the BEC chip.

Have you just checked to see if indeed there is a short between the barrel and the heatsink? Very easy to do with a voltmeter, a battery, basic stuff that you should have laying around. Much easier to check than to speculate on a forum like this....

Lee

Lee,
I have a V3. I lengthened the switch wire so I can install the switch inside my rx box. Since you mentioned V2, is it okay to lengthen the switch wire on the V3?

And for the second time, I'm not worried about a short . I'm going to say again that my concern is the fact that when the male connector is inserted into the ESC connector, it is pushing the connector away from the heat sink which puts undue load to the soldered point. Do you understand that? As you can see, there is no gap between the positive connector and heat sink while the negative connecto has about 2mm. I also checked the 2nd V3 I received and it was soldered better. There is at least a 2mm gap between the positive/negative terminals and heat sink.

By the way, I'm not speculating anything. If you can't help any, then I think it would be better if you just do your work at Castle to make the MMM better .

You can read this thread so you can give your input too:
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16497

[Pdelcast]

Originally Posted by George16

Lee,
I have a V3. I lengthened the switch wire so I can install the switch inside my rx box. Since you mentioned V2, is it okay to lengthen the switch wire on the V3?

And for the second time, I'm not worried about a short . I'm going to say again that my concern is the fact that when the male connector is inserted into the ESC connector, it is pushing the connector away from the heat sink which puts undue load to the soldered point. Do you understand that? As you can see, there is no gap between the positive connector and heat sink while the negative connecto has about 2mm. I also checked the 2nd V3 I received and it was soldered better. There is at least a 2mm gap between the positive/negative terminals and heat sink.

By the way, I'm not speculating anything. If you can't help any, then I think it would be better if you just do your work at Castle to make the MMM better .

You can read this thread so you can give your input too:
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16497

It's pretty funny (funny ironic, not funny ha-ha) that when we released the Mamba Max we were the target of unending flames (on forums just like this one...) for soldering the wires into through-holes and NOT using the same kind of "solder posts" like everybody else. Everyone claimed that the wire solder joints would fail (because of stress where the solder met the strands of the wire) and replacement wires would be a real problem... etc ... etc... etc...

Now, we are being told the opposite. Because we didn't put wires in the holes, we have a poorly engineered product ... etc. etc. etc...

I mean, I could take a hint from GM racing and not put ANY wires or bullets or posts or anything in the holes, and then not warranty the controller if the end user damages it while soldering their own wires in...


I guess my point is this -- we will be flamed regardless of how we do things, because people have preferences on how they like things. They get used to a certain way of seeing things, and then all other options just don't seem "right."

Believe me, I understand, and I'm not upset about it at all. I just think you should give it a chance. We've engineered it pretty well, and we are pretty confident that the bullets work. The bullets actually allow us to build to demand (which we haven't been able to do with the Mamba Max -- because of the amount of hand-work required for soldering...) so that EVERYONE can get (and afford!) a MMM. (AND -- the difference between the gap on your monster was a minor issue in manufacturing. We have changed the fixtures for the Monster Max to center the heat sink better between the posts. BUT -- it won't cause a problem...)

Thanx for listening to me rant...


OH -- and BTW -- yes, you can lengthen the switch wire on your V3. We actually made a hardware change so that high resistance or inductance on the switch wire wouldn't hurt the BEC from V2 to V3.

Originally Posted by E-Revonut

George16 - You lengthened the wires on the switch? why? Your best bet would have been to cut the switch off, twist the wires together and solder them! I used the switch at first, then it cost me a chance at being a contender at the RC-M Bash! The switch was turned off twice in the main, I had to run out on the track flip it on and run back to the drivers stand.

As far as removing the switch....iv'e been thinking of removing mine but not sure of any consequeces....is there any reasons why i shouldn't remove the switch ??...thanks guys for the help