Project Super-VBS-CF-Gorillamaxx!!!

[jordan...]

Well i just gone done stripping down the truck and checking bits and pieces after its first proper run. Apart from the broken driveshaft pin, i found one of the grub screws in the stub axle of the right rear cvd had come loose, and the pin which holds the stub on was half hanging out. It scraped a little gouge in the back of the knuckle, but no real damage and an easy fix. Apart from that, all looks good, i've gone through and loctited all the pillowballs, so hopefully no more sheared pins. Instead of a drill bit, im going to press out a pin from a spare centre dogbone to replace the cvd pin, should do the trick, unfortunately it probably wont be till the middle of next week. Also replaced the CD oil with 50000 wt. Can't wait to have another run to see how it handles now!

[JERRY2KONE]

Well the good thing about having to go through your truck like that, and make repairs like this is that you become even more familiar with your vehicle and how it responds to your mechanical ability as well as your driving. I think that we all run into little issues like that after doing such a big project. Things just get overlooked no matter how hard we try no to. Plus there are teh rare failures of parts that we have to expect. I am actually planning to strip my entire project down once I get it finished in order to redo all of the harware and loctite everything that needs it. I have an entire stock of titanium screws for it when it goes back together. I am trying to leave nothing to chance with this one.

[SpeedAssault]

Originally Posted by jordan...

Well i got the first of a few incoming packages today. I recieved my Xray CD mounts and HB CD.

Should be getting the cf in a few days, and i ordered a custom motor adapter plate from Mike to suit the 1527's 4mm screws (awesome customer service ). Also have 3 44t kyosho CD spurs coming and a set of black anodized Dace servo clamps. I think ill try and make a cusom motor mount out of the 3mm cf i have coming before i hack up my Gmaxx single mount.
one last thing, if i got a Hyperion 610i, would i be able to charge 2 3s batts at the same time by making an 2-1 adapter, or do i need the 610i DUO for that? cos the 610i is rated for 6s.
i'll keep you posted
jordan

HEY Awesome build !!!!
Where did you get the new tranny "Xray CD mounts and HB CD" ???

thank u

[jordan...]

Originally Posted by JERRY2KONE

Well the good thing about having to go through your truck like that, and make repairs like this is that you become even more familiar with your vehicle and how it responds to your mechanical ability as well as your driving. I think that we all run into little issues like that after doing such a big project. Things just get overlooked no matter how hard we try no to. Plus there are teh rare failures of parts that we have to expect. I am actually planning to strip my entire project down once I get it finished in order to redo all of the harware and loctite everything that needs it. I have an entire stock of titanium screws for it when it goes back together. I am trying to leave nothing to chance with this one.

Exactly Jerry, never hurts to be too careful. You say Ti screws, i've heard that Tony's 12.9's are a little stronger, but the Ti screws will definately be a little lighter.

As for the Xray diff mount and the HB diff, i got them both from amainhobbies.com. Although now i am running an Xray centre diff. Here are the links to what i've got on the truck now:

Diff mount

Centre diff

Now i am running a 48t spur, not the 46t that comes with the diff...

[TDC57]

Originally Posted by jordan...

Well i just gone done stripping down the truck and checking bits and pieces after its first proper run. Apart from the broken driveshaft pin, i found one of the grub screws in the stub axle of the right rear cvd had come loose, and the pin which holds the stub on was half hanging out. It scraped a little gouge in the back of the knuckle, but no real damage and an easy fix. Apart from that, all looks good, i've gone through and loctited all the pillowballs, so hopefully no more sheared pins. Instead of a drill bit, im going to press out a pin from a spare centre dogbone to replace the cvd pin, should do the trick, unfortunately it probably wont be till the middle of next week. Also replaced the CD oil with 50000 wt. Can't wait to have another run to see how it handles now!

what a fricken pain.. I'm sorry sir but like the MAN "Jerry" said above at least you have yet another opportunity to go through your build.. Hopefully you'll get it all worked out soon enough..

You will like the 50k center diff, what were you running before 30K??

Have a great weekend Sir..

P.S.
I still think you should order up a spar T-bone..

[jordan...]

Do you mean the centre dogbones Shaun? I've got two sets of those, one stainless steel from RCAlloys, and one hardened steel from Mike I was running 30k before, it tamed the power down nicely, but im aiming for a little more crazy this time. I was expecting little hiccups here and there, another couple of runs though, and everything should be sorted. I also think that the batteries will gain some performance when i put a couple of charge cycles through them, still on their first at the moment.

[BL_RV0]

That sounds good. Get a pavement run next!

[SV6000]

Has anyone had issues in regards to brakes and reverse with their MGM controllers? if not what firmware are you running and what was the setup? Mine are going straight from brake to reverse without actually having a controlled stop. ie when you push the lever forward it will go into reverse instead of brake. And when i have it set to no freewheel it will free wheel anyway

[jordan...]

Not dure about that problem, but when i ran my 28025 there were no brakes at all, id press reverse and it would just freewheel to a stop. I'm using the newest firmware. I'll probably have another play around with it when it gets back and see if i can figure out whats going on. Maybe you could try resetting the controller settings back to default, and then changing the settings to what you want? Kind of resetting the controller.

[jordan...]

So im having a hard time finding a replacement pin for the cvd. I was going to use a drill bit, but then found out that the shank, the end bit, is not hardened steel. Do you guys think that it will hold up if it is just plain old steel, not hardened steel?

[JERRY2KONE]

Send Bill at RCAlloys an email and ask him how much for some spare pins. He makes the dogbones and can sell you a few I am sure. That way you have the exact replacement in case you run into this again donw the road.

Originally Posted by jordan...

So im having a hard time finding a replacement pin for the cvd. I was going to use a drill bit, but then found out that the shank, the end bit, is not hardened steel. Do you guys think that it will hold up if it is just plain old steel, not hardened steel?

[lutach]

Originally Posted by jordan...

So im having a hard time finding a replacement pin for the cvd. I was going to use a drill bit, but then found out that the shank, the end bit, is not hardened steel. Do you guys think that it will hold up if it is just plain old steel, not hardened steel?

I have seen somewhere a nice little tool to remove and add those pins on. I just can't find where. I din't know if it was in a magazine or in the web. I'll keep looking and send you the info once I find it. I'm sure someone has seen it as well.

Edit: I found it. Here is the article: http://www.rc-car.com/ME2/dirmod.asp...C973108AAB114D.

[BL_RV0]

I call it the pin-pusher.

[jordan...]

Ahh yes, i saw that little walk through, thanks Lutach. But i have already got the pin out, trouble is the pin that i have, (a standard 3x16mm pin out of a dogbone) just slips straight through the cvd , i think ill just use a drill bit and see what happens

[TDC57]

Titanium drill bit ??