Looking for car amp - Page 2 - RC-Monster Forums

BrianG · 12.09.2008, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by asheck

Thats a nice clean looking setup.I'm not sure I could take it out and have to redo it all. That MTX has a little higher distortion rate then I like.Especially since it's gonna be at 2ohms for mids and highs.But I'm kinda funny about that stuff.

Thanks. It only took a couple hours to do that setup. It's pretty simple really. But, it's heavy and takes up some storage area that I want back.

Actually, it's running at 2.4ohms stereo. I have a 2 ohm resistor in series with each rear speaker to give me my ~2db attenuation. So, it's 6 ohms || 4 ohms. Besides, unless you listed to a pure sine waves in a noiseless room, it is really difficult to hear under 1%. But I hear ya...

Finnster · 06:20 PM

I bought a 4ch Elemental Designs back in 2002 and still use it today. At the time they were a very small and not so well known company making some very well made and clean amps for great prices. Think I paid like $150-200 then. Nicer, more power and cleaner than the RF, kenwood, sony

and other various amps I've had.

-No idea what the deal is today, but they are still around!

The 4ch I had was very much underrated, where I run a pair of front components and a single 10". Plently of power and punch for me while not being over done. Fits nicely under my F seat as well. Seems most comparible to their NINe.4 amp. Worth looking into.

Here's pix of the guts if you like

BrianG · 12.09.2008, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Finnster

I bought a 4ch Elemental Designs back in 2002 and still use it today. At the time they were a very small and not so well known company making some very well made and clean amps for great prices. Think I paid like $150-200 then. Nicer, more power and cleaner than the RF, kenwood, sony

and other various amps I've had.

-No idea what the deal is today, but they are still around!

The 4ch I had was very much underrated, where I run a pair of front components and a single 10". Plently of power and punch for me while not being over done. Fits nicely under my F seat as well. Seems most comparible to their NINe.4 amp. Worth looking into.

Here's pix of the guts if you like

Yeah, I almost bought one of their subs a long time ago, but decided to get something I could hear in person. The amps look ok. The guts are ok too; bus bars for power, single transistor pair per channel, decent switching coil. But the PS capacitance looks a little weak for the power rating - but fine for mids/highs (don't know if it's enough for sub use though). Not bad all in all for the price. I like the simple look too - no fancy LEDs or other gimmicks...

Just go Play · 12.11.2008, 09:26 PM

I'm not sure if this would meet your size requirements or not but I have had very good luck with my Alpine MRP F-550. I have found it to be an extremely versatile and forgiving 4ch class A/B amp. Running in 3ch mode with your setup should get you 90+90 up front and 250 bridged for the sub.

For a short time I ran mine in 3ch mode with a pair Hertz HSK 165 components up front and a pair of g210 boston acoustics subs @2ohm off the bridged channels. I don't recommend this as it does exceed the rating of the amp, but the amp never over heated. I have since then added a mono amp to drive the subs. The only thing that I feel could (reasonably) be better is the efficiency between like 30-60% volume seems flat. By this I mean that the increase in volume between 30% (on the hu) and 60% is less proportional then from 0-30 or 60-100%.

If space is your primary deciding factor take a look at this amp. I am not aware of another amp this small that is capable of delivering as much power reliably. The 2 possible negatives about this one are that they tend to run warm to hot depending on your setup and being a class D amp the damping is a bit lower then an A/B amp.

I just noticed that Alpine has moved away from using A/B class amps for their multi channel amps and now offers only class D. This is not a big deal for mids and highs but the lower damping may be noticed if driving subs. In any case these are good amps for the money but not audiophile class... you get what you pay for.

BrianG · 12.17.2008, 02:34 PM

FWIW: I ended up getting an RF T600-4 amp. 100w x 4. The birth certificate says ~135w X 4 into 4 ohm.

So, I'll be running the fronts and rears on the front channels (rears will be attenuated by ~2db via series resistor), and the sub will be bridged on the rear channels. Since the PS won't be taxed very hard powering the fronts/rears (gains turned modestly), more power should be available for the sub. I'm using the x-over and parametric EQ built into my HU to tune the frequency response somewhat - just gotta get to a shop and use a 31 band spectrum analyzer. I'm also using a Phoenix Gold basscube to have boost and center frequency adjustments. The subsonic filter is nice since I'm using a ported box.

I found out I have Polk Audio MOMOs in the doors right now. I thought my Diamond Audio Hexes were in there! I did find the diamonds though, so, as you can imagine when it gets warmer, I'm taking that crap out and installing those diamonds! Sheesh, all this time and I was listening to Polks. Ewww!

The amp is physically pretty small for what it is. Heavy sucker though at 12lbs. The guts are nowhere near the build quality as my old PPI amps, the RF amps is smaller and lighter than the smallest of my PPI amps (2 X 100w). Oh well.

Now it's time to completely redo my amp rack in the trunk...

12.17.2008, 04:49 PM

smart move....I dont know who suggested RF amp to you but they knew there chit

I know what you mean about the differance in the old Punch and the new Punch amps...the old ones were built like brick sht houses....I still have an old Fosgate Punch 650 on a shelf here somewhere....I used to run 8 8" Fosgate speakers off that 650 behind my back seat in my old pickup truck....you havnt heard bass till you've heard 8 8's on two channels of a punch 650...the tightest bass you ever heard

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianG

FWIW: I ended up getting an RF T600-4 amp. 100w x 4. The birth certificate says ~135w X 4 into 4 ohm.

So, I'll be running the fronts and rears on the front channels (rears will be attenuated by ~2db via series resistor), and the sub will be bridged on the rear channels. Since the PS won't be taxed very hard powering the fronts/rears (gains turned modestly), more power should be available for the sub. I'm using the x-over and parametric EQ built into my HU to tune the frequency response somewhat - just gotta get to a shop and use a 31 band spectrum analyzer. I'm also using a Phoenix Gold basscube to have boost and center frequency adjustments. The subsonic filter is nice since I'm using a ported box.

I found out I have Polk Audio MOMOs in the doors right now. I thought my Diamond Audio Hexes were in there! I did find the diamonds though, so, as you can imagine when it gets warmer, I'm taking that crap out and installing those diamonds! Sheesh, all this time and I was listening to Polks. Ewww!

The amp is physically pretty small for what it is. Heavy sucker though at 12lbs. The guts are nowhere near the build quality as my old PPI amps, the RF amps is smaller and lighter than the smallest of my PPI amps (2 X 100w). Oh well.

Now it's time to completely redo my amp rack in the trunk...

BrianG · 12.17.2008, 04:55 PM

Well, I was a bit hesitant at first. RF has never been known for SQ, but rather raw, underrated power. I have had old Punch 200ix, Punch 240x4, two Punch 60ix's, and a Punch 55. Each one was rated FAR below its actual output. I figured I'd have anough power for my current needs that I could set the gains at minimal values and have extra power on tap for a little headroom (prevent clipping).

FG101C · 03:38 AM

http://cgi.ebay.com/Soundstream-Gran...2%7C240%3A1318

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=220326792333

If you don't mind buying something used. Any of the Soundstream amps that look like these are absolutly awesome. If you can find what your looking for and it's an older Soundstream, don't hesitate. The older ones look like the ones in the links above. Blue anodized, small heat sink fins.

Used to compete with these in the early 90's. They are incredible, versatile, way more power than they claim. The new Soundstream is not the same company. Man they had the best paper (pulp) subs I've ever heard.

In fact that 705 I have linked, I may try to win that auction and make a use for it.

BrianG · 12.18.2008, 01:49 PM

I've had one older Soundstream amp, and while it sounded good, it heated up quickly. Might have been ok with adequate airflow, but my trunk (at the time) was not the best place.

kulangflow · 12.18.2008, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FG101C

http://cgi.ebay.com/Soundstream-Gran...2%7C240%3A1318

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=220326792333

In fact that 705 I have linked, I may try to win that auction and make a use for it.

Be aware of his feedback. He only has one feedback as a seller and it's negative. It's not to say that this transaction won't be good, but it's something to consider.

slimthelineman · 12.18.2008, 03:26 PM

fyi fosgate is not anything like it used to be. go by the numbers ie. signal to noise is a big indication, as well as THD, less is better. i worked in stereos all through high school and college, jl sells the most but all their speakers sound exacly the same to me some are just louder. from my own personal experience infinity has the best "mass marketed" subs, the kappa perfect series will sound better and play louder than most due to the high efficincy. as far as amps, try diamond, its the same people who built orion before it was taken over by DEI and produced in china! i think a 8" kappa perfect would amaze you and have a small footprint. i have sold and installed most brand so if you have any questions on specific items or brands feel free to ask

just my $.02

lincpimp · 12.18.2008, 03:49 PM

I did a fair amount of stero work a few years ago, and always used memphis amps. Not too fond of their speakers (I prefer boston acoustics or mbquark) but the amps did well. Ran 3 kicker l7 12s (cast basket models, weight 25lbs each...) on a class d 1500 memhis. Ran the subs at 3 ohms, so I got around 1200 watts. Custom made a fold down rear seat and foward mounted sub box for the 94 mark 8 lincoln I had at the time. Welded up a cage that held the back of the box and had an angled amp rack with cover on the other side. Still have 2 of the l7 subs and a memphis 1500 class d and a memphis 300 75x4 AB amp. The amps are the cool looking polished al models, quite compact for their power output.

Still need to do the audio/video for my lightning. Had the truck since 06 and bought all of the gear about 2 years ago, but have yet to install it... Damn RC addiction... Weather is better now so I can gut the interior and start wiring, and drive the 12r while I have the truck apart.

slimthelineman · 12.18.2008, 03:49 PM

sorry i just looked and they dont make a 8" perfect

it a reference sereies

slimthelineman · 12.18.2008, 03:59 PM

nice! memphis amps are BIG, but the few i used impressed me as well. one ran a couple HCCA2 10's and the other ran 3 12w6 v2's in a hybrid box. have always loved mb quart tweeters and crossovers , their midbass i was never happy with, except on their "Q" series, but for the money, no thanks. the kicker L7's are very "thumpy" speakers. a little less efficient than some of the others out there, but the increased surface area of the cone more than compensates for this. excellent speakers for a hatchback or smaller suv's

BrianG · 12.18.2008, 05:18 PM

While on the subject, does anyone know where I can get an old PPI Pro12 sub rewound and new surround (maybe even the spider) put on? This is the PPI before they were bought out (by DEI IIRC). I've always LOVED how it sounded, but after ~5 years, it got "tired". It's been sitting in the original box since I got the Alpine Type R sub, but I would really like to bring it back to life. It has the tightest and most accurate bass I have ever heard. Yeah, it doesn't go too deep and doesn't have much excursion, but sure sounds great!

I've never liked JL Audio subs, Kicker L7's, or any high-excursion sub. They tend to be "slow" and not have defined bass. The Alpine sub I have is probably the best sounding cheap sub I've heard, and has lasted the longest despite me putting ~600w through a 300w sub. Maybe things have changed since I was in the scene, I dunno. And I'm more of a ported box type-of-guy.

I used to be much more heavily into audio. About 8 years ago, I was working part-time at a local stereo shop repairing amps, installing remote starts, alarms, etc. It was fun, but got tired of working in other people's hunks of crap with trash everywhere that you had to work around (a fellow installed called these cars "toilets" and even had a matchbox toilet car, lol). These are usually the same people who dump $5k on a stereo for a $500 car. Not to mention people running 1 ohm load on a 4 ohm stable load and wondering why their amp had blown output transistors or power supply FETs. One guy thought it was cool when he watched a transistor desolder itself from the current load.