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BrianG
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03.05.2009, 11:21 AM

What part of the diff is breaking?

If it's the ring/pinion; proper shimming should help. And make sure the diff cases aren't deformed.

If it's the inside of the diffs, a metal cup should help. They only use two spider gears, so that will tend to flex the stock diff cup more under heavy acceleration.
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madmaxx
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03.05.2009, 11:35 AM

the e-diff's are different from the nitro diff's, the e-diff's use a spider gear support bar

proper shimming of the diff is necessary for both e-powered/nitro IMO

i run shimmed, alu diff's with Robinson R&P


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JThiessen
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03.05.2009, 12:08 PM

It appears you are correct - I had my pages mixed up, hence why I didn't recall seeing that support in there.

Looking at the exploded view, it appears that there is only one spider gear - is that correct?


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mistercrash
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03.05.2009, 12:37 PM

The diffs of the nitro Revo and the ERevo are different. The nitro uses the TRA5381 diff case. The ERevo uses the TRA3978 diff case that comes with metal blocks for the spider gears' pin and to accommodate for the TRA5382X metal block that go between the two spider gears. These metal parts are what is supposed to make the diffs stronger and the EREvo diff case is different from the nitro one so that the metal blocks fit in it. There are two spider gears in the diffs but for some reason the exploded view only shows one.


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Last edited by mistercrash; 03.05.2009 at 12:48 PM.
   
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squeeforever
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03.05.2009, 02:29 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Semi Pro View Post
how so?

i had a 2.5 and i now have a platinum and they are the same

try losening the slipper alittle more and dont gun it or brake hard after landing a jump and they should hold up alot better

aluminum cases and the inner brace will help but the only other fix is the massively over priced FLM conversion
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Originally Posted by JThiessen View Post
I'll bite...how so? I've been buying the same parts since day one - haven't noticed anything different.
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Originally Posted by JThiessen View Post
I think Squee was correct, or maybe more that I was somewhat incorrect. The original 2.5R had an "I-Bar" set up in it. I dont recall my first one having that - but...one doesnt always recall everything! The 3.3 diffs are configured the same as the E-Revo, just some parts have an X designation, which may or may not mean something
Quote:
Originally Posted by madmaxx View Post
the e-diff's are different from the nitro diff's, the e-diff's use a spider gear support bar

proper shimming of the diff is necessary for both e-powered/nitro IMO

i run shimmed, alu diff's with Robinson R&P
Quote:
Originally Posted by JThiessen View Post
It appears you are correct - I had my pages mixed up, hence why I didn't recall seeing that support in there.

Looking at the exploded view, it appears that there is only one spider gear - is that correct?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mistercrash View Post
The diffs of the nitro Revo and the ERevo are different. The nitro uses the TRA5381 diff case. The ERevo uses the TRA3978 diff case that comes with metal blocks for the spider gears' pin and to accommodate for the TRA5382X metal block that go between the two spider gears. These metal parts are what is supposed to make the diffs stronger and the EREvo diff case is different from the nitro one so that the metal blocks fit in it. There are two spider gears in the diffs but for some reason the exploded view only shows one.
Correct...For the most part. If I'm not mistaken, that support bar is now in the newer model 3.3 as well as the E-Revo, Slayer, and the T-Maxx 3.3 and E-Maxx 3905.

They pretty much all have it now I believe, but the original 2.5R and the old 3.3 didn't.
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mistercrash
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03.05.2009, 04:02 PM

If you go and check the exploded views of the T-Maxx Classic, the newer T-Maxx 3.3, the Revo #5308 and #5309, the Platinum Edition Revo and the Slayer, you won't see any of those metal parts in the diffs that are in the diffs of the electric Traxxas vehicles, E-Maxx, ERevo. But of course I can only refer to what I see on the exploded views of those vehicles as I don't have experience with all of them. But I'm pretty sure that those reinforced diffs were introduced only in the electric versions of the Revos and T-Maxxes.


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Last edited by mistercrash; 03.05.2009 at 04:03 PM.
   
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JThiessen
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03.05.2009, 04:09 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by squeeforever View Post
Correct...For the most part. If I'm not mistaken, that support bar is now in the newer model 3.3 as well as the E-Revo, Slayer, and the T-Maxx 3.3 and E-Maxx 3905.

They pretty much all have it now I believe, but the original 2.5R and the old 3.3 didn't.
I was looking at the exploded views on the Traxxas site earlier, and those dont show up on the 3.3 exploded views. If they are holding up better, not sure why one couldnt use them. I do have to say that since I went to the AL cups, I havent had any prob's with mine.


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madmaxx
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03.05.2009, 04:53 PM

AFAIK the 5308 REVO does not use the support bar, it is only stock on the electric model's....


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squeeforever
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03.05.2009, 06:38 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by mistercrash View Post
If you go and check the exploded views of the T-Maxx Classic, the newer T-Maxx 3.3, the Revo #5308 and #5309, the Platinum Edition Revo and the Slayer, you won't see any of those metal parts in the diffs that are in the diffs of the electric Traxxas vehicles, E-Maxx, ERevo. But of course I can only refer to what I see on the exploded views of those vehicles as I don't have experience with all of them. But I'm pretty sure that those reinforced diffs were introduced only in the electric versions of the Revos and T-Maxxes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JThiessen View Post
I was looking at the exploded views on the Traxxas site earlier, and those dont show up on the 3.3 exploded views. If they are holding up better, not sure why one couldnt use them. I do have to say that since I went to the AL cups, I havent had any prob's with mine.
My bad. I could have sworn I saw the nitro ones start to use them as well. Still, the E-Revo and Revo diffs are different. That was the original debate anyway.
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e-mike
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03.05.2009, 05:05 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianG View Post
What part of the diff is breaking?

If it's the ring/pinion; proper shimming should help. And make sure the diff cases aren't deformed.

If it's the inside of the diffs, a metal cup should help. They only use two spider gears, so that will tend to flex the stock diff cup more under heavy acceleration.
i run new new diff(tougher version)this is the ring gear/pinion who ''strip''after 5 pack....so where a can shim that????


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