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George16
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04.03.2009, 09:33 AM

So far, I don't have any problems with my ST RR diffs. However, I shimmed them differently. I don't use the shims that came with them but rather use 8x10 with varying thickness and placed the shims between the cups and bearings compared to the stock setup wherein the shims go between the bulkhead and bearings. This way, the shims don't move around.


Castle Neu 1520 on 6S LiPo Powered Gmaxx (Nitro Killer)
Predator with OS .21TM
Supermaxx with Mach .26
Revo with OS .18TZ
Kyosho ST-RR Conversion
Ofna CR with Tekin ESC/Motor (2)
   
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lincpimp
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04.03.2009, 11:06 AM

I always felt that shimming between the diff and the bearing was a better idea than shimming between the bearing and the case. It does require you to gut the diff internals, as the outdrives usually prevent you from removing the bearings. But if you want it done right...
   
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George16
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04.03.2009, 09:02 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by lincpimp View Post
I always felt that shimming between the diff and the bearing was a better idea than shimming between the bearing and the case. It does require you to gut the diff internals, as the outdrives usually prevent you from removing the bearings. But if you want it done right...
That's true . I actually use the UE diff shimming instructions in shimming my diffs. So far, I still have to strip any of my diffs on the Gmaxx, ST RR, and Revo conversion (of course my nitro trucks too).


Castle Neu 1520 on 6S LiPo Powered Gmaxx (Nitro Killer)
Predator with OS .21TM
Supermaxx with Mach .26
Revo with OS .18TZ
Kyosho ST-RR Conversion
Ofna CR with Tekin ESC/Motor (2)
   
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