Quote:
Originally Posted by _paralyzed_
Ha! Good stuff. I've just never seen a failure of the tranny gears because of heat, but it would definitely make a more efficient drivetrain. I do like the analogy to 1:1 trannys. I would use the oil treatment on the ring/pinion in the diff housing, but im going to stick to silicone in the diff cups, for tunability.
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My mute's gearbox was dry and had a lot of miles on it when I got it. It was full of white plastic dust when I pulled it apart the first time. The issue in my exp is not heat, rather a bunch of added friction due to the dust becoming an abrasive that gets between gears meshing, etc. obviously. And that will lead to the plastic heating up and becoming gummy on top of the dust floating around, I imagine run hard enough you could weld the plastic gears together...
Linc, the viscosity is pretty close to 90 wt, but oil treatment sticks to everything regardless of centrifugal force, much more tenacious than regular 90 wt, so the trick is to use as little as possible. It will purge out the bearing holes if you overfill it, use only enough to get about halfway between the bottom of the trans or diff case and the lowest bearing. As you said it is self recirculating and won't need to be changed for a very long time.
Grease normally is used in simple pivoting mechanisms that are low speed,
like a hinge...
Silicone is a decent metal to metal lube, but has a weak and thin boundary layer, I have seen it not work more than work in certain applications. I understand the need for tuneability in diffs, and silicone is the only way to do that, but you may still run oil treatment on the ring gear/ pinion no problem.
Like I said guys, less than $2 bucks, I think I make a pretty good argument
Edit, linc it is thick enough it won't seep but just a bit damp around my plastic 3906 trans halves, no need to seal anything!