Anybody having MMMv3 Switch Problems?

Hello,

This weekend I ran my new 8T 2.0 Conversion for the third time. First was just a single pack around the house to test that it worked. Second was at a track, 3-4 packs of practice and this third time was at a track for a race.

All three times I've had momentary problems getting the ESC (a Castle Mamba Monster v3) to turn on. Of course it always happens as I'm rushing out to run my Qual round or something so I just toggle the switch again and it works.

At the race, someone else was running an 8ight conversion with a MMMv3. The dude took a bad jump and he was dead stick, they brought it into the pits and I checked his switch, it had not moved to off, I just toggled it and it fired up again.

I'm wondering if these issues are all switch or if there is something else at play. If it is switch, is there a fixed switch? I know I can just solder them together but I don't want to void warranty and to be honest, I kind of like the switch. On the 8T 2.0 it's in the perfect spot.

Please advise and thanks.

[RBMike]

Probably the switch. Most guys I know are using the switch until it acts up (like yours seems to be) then cutting it off & soldering the wires togeather. No more switch problems.

[BrianG]

lol, you have a little trouble finding a spot to create this thread?

Anyway, those open frame switches are not good quality. They let dust/moisture in and the contacts get crappy rather fast. Not to mention the contacts aren't the best.

If simply soldering the wires is not an option you want, maybe replacing with a better switch? I use these and have never had a problem. They are sealed and have a convenient mounting mechanism. Yeah, that switch is rated for 6A, which is wayyy overkill, but high current switches have a much more robust contact area and the spring force is higher so there is less chance for accidental actuation during a really rough landing.

Originally Posted by BrianG

lol, you have a little trouble finding a spot to create this thread?

I'm sorry about that. Opened a few tabs up for the RCM Forums and then I lost the text I wrote so I went back and messed up a few times...very unlike me.

Anyway thanks for the tip on the switch.

Do you guys know if Castle frowns upon switch replacement? I suppose I could email them but figured I'd ask JIC one of you guys has already done that.

[magman]

I replaced my switch with a push button switch from Radio Shack....I landed so hard Yesterday that it actually popped the switch back to off!

I sent Castle a email asking if extending the wires for the switch to put it in the stock location on a Losi 8 would void the warranty or anything and they said you can do anything with the switch or any of the wires as long as you dont solder directly to the circuit board. Soldering to the circuit board will void warranty.

[himalaya]

Dust has killed all my MMMs' switches, 2x V2 + 1X V3.

I would like to see CC has something new to come, lke a dust proof cover for the MMM switch.

...i have killed all my CC switches...and YES i can attest to the same problems with the switch popping to OFF...either run a small rubber o-ring on the switch and the switch 'plate' (for want of a better word) or solder it to ON for ever and ever amen :D

Originally Posted by himalaya

Dust has killed all my MMMs' switches, 2x V2 + 1X V3.

I would like to see CC has something new to come, lke a dust proof cover for the MMM switch.

or maybe use a better than a 2 cent switch....the switch that Brian linked is only $3

[Overkill]

Originally Posted by azjc

or maybe use a better than a 2 cent switch....the switch that Brian linked is only $3

I use a toggle switch and purchased a seperate waterproof cover for the toggle, check out the following pic and I have it mounted next to the receiver box.

[George16]

I just cut mine off and shrink-wrapped the ends.

On another note, the fan on my V3 had a broken blade and killed it. Called up Castle and they're sending me one.

[BrianG]

Be careful when you go to pick up a switch. There are several SPST switches at Radioshack. The lower current ones work fine, but are more easily actuated by bumps and hard landings. The high current verions (5A+) take more force to get them to switch so they are less likely to turn off by themselves.

BTW: You can use SPDT, DPST, and DPDT switches too; just don't use the extra terminals. I usually cut them as close to the case as possible and heatshrink the whole thing.

[its me]

will cutting of the switch void a warranty claim?!?!? One of my v1 just stopped working no smoke nothing, thinking it might be the switch.. Is there another way to figure this out with out cutting it off?

[shaunjohnson]

i have found that all these problems are really simple...think logicaly about this...
it's a relatively big switch, it has weight...when u land a jump bad, G orce is gonna turn it off!! mount the switch sideways and you will find this problem will go away.

that's only what i have found.

before i even mounted mine i took the wires and soldered them together inside the case, nice and clean look and no more worries, i always did this to my mm's as well 8th scales dont need no freakin switches!