Extra rotor? - RC-Monster Forums

BrianG · 03:12 PM

Just got my T8 1700kv motor in the mail today (thanks Mike!) and was surprised to see an extra rotor in the box. I thought the padded package was some extra screws and stuff until my scissors slid from about 3" away into the package.

Does this mean the existing rotor is the old style with potential issues and I should replace the rotor right away? Or is the included rotor a "just in case" replacement? A little confused here.

snellemin · 10.05.2009, 03:15 PM

Didn't Mike say that all his T8 motors in the store have the latest rotors. It could be that he added the updated rotors in the box, no?

BrianG · 10.05.2009, 03:20 PM

That's what I'm wondering. I assume the extra one is the updated version, but was just curious if I should just replace the rotor straight away, or try the one in the motor and see if it lasts. I suppose I could just take it out and use it as a fridge magnet.

nitrostarter · 10.05.2009, 03:32 PM

Thats awesome! you have the replacement waiting for action...lol

whitrzac · 10.05.2009, 04:31 PM

open the motor and find out...

RC-Monster Mike · 10.05.2009, 07:07 PM

Your motor has the original style rotor, Brian. I have been swapping the old style rotors with the new style before shipping, but time was short(and it was for you, so I figured it was OK), so I simply added the new style rotor to the package. Not all the original style rotors fail, but Tekin was attentive enough to send me new rotors for the stock I had when they discovered a consistent rotor issue. These are mostly gone now. You can use the motoras is - if the rotor fails, simply install the new style rotor in its place (and if you are motivated, you can then affix the original rotor back to the shaft with some 609 loctite retaining compound and keep yourself a backup). :)

GO-RIDE.com · 10.05.2009, 08:22 PM

Here's what I'd do. Drive the installed rotor until it unbonds. Both of mine did in 3 - 4 runs. Then rebond it for a backup and use the new rotor. I've seen where even some of the new rotors have unbonded, so it's best to have the original bonded right and ready for use if the new one fails.

SpEEdyBL · 10.05.2009, 11:57 PM

My original, old style rotor is still kicking with about 15 race days and 6s bashing since the beginning of the summer. I hope I didn't jinx myself. Lol, but then i'd be the first to try the castle rotor in the tekin motor.

BrianG · 10.06.2009, 12:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RC-Monster Mike

Your motor has the original style rotor, Brian. I have been swapping the old style rotors with the new style before shipping, but time was short(and it was for you, so I figured it was OK), so I simply added the new style rotor to the package. Not all the original style rotors fail, but Tekin was attentive enough to send me new rotors for the stock I had when they discovered a consistent rotor issue. These are mostly gone now. You can use the motoras is - if the rotor fails, simply install the new style rotor in its place (and if you are motivated, you can then affix the original rotor back to the shaft with some 609 loctite retaining compound and keep yourself a backup). :)

Yeah, it was ok, there was no note or anything, so I wasn't sure. I installed it tonight and will just run the motor as-is until/if it unbonds. I'll have to get some standard hex wrenches anyway (

) so running it like this will give me time to get some.

If the rotor unbonds, how exactly should I rebond it? I assume the existing rotor has that fiber wrap the new one has; do I take that off first so I can clean whatever bonding agent was there? Or do I just drip some of that 609 stuff down the rotor shaft and hope it holds?

RC-Monster Mike · 10.06.2009, 10:14 AM

If it fails - replace it and send me the old one. I will take case of the rest. :)

BrianG · 10.06.2009, 11:49 AM

Cool, thanks. I don't mind doing it, but I want to do it right if I do it. No sense doing something if it isn't done correctly.

10.06.2009, 07:06 PM

i ran mine and when it came undone i pressed it all the way out, (which there was not a drop of adheasive anywhere on the rotor) then used green locktite and pressed it back in, mind you this wasnt that hard, i dont think tekin even used an interference fit on the old style rotors, i think they just pressed those little spacers together "pinching" the rotor thinking that would hold. I have been running my fixed rotor for about 50 packs now and its fine

GO-RIDE.com · 10.06.2009, 07:27 PM

That's good to know that your rebonded rotors have been holding up. I haven't tested either of my rebonds, but I think I did a solid job and used Loctite 603. Loctite 603 is a higher bond strength than 609 and a bit more heat resistant, but I'm sure either will work. On my first bad rotor I did not notice any sticky residue from the original assembly, but on my second there was some, but not much.

jahno30 · 07.12.2010, 05:27 PM

I've been running my RX8 1700kv combo with the original V1 in my Mugen MBX5 on 6s for almost a year now... It just failed

I cleaned it up with acetone & stuck it back with jB Weld should be 1 piece now .... i'm now waiting 4 hours

for proper dry time & will see how she runs after drying

whitrzac · 07.13.2010, 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jahno30

I've been running my RX8 1700kv combo with the original V1 in my Mugen MBX5 on 6s for almost a year now... It just failed

I cleaned it up with acetone & stuck it back with jB Weld should be 1 piece now .... i'm now waiting 4 hours

for proper dry time & will see how she runs after drying

IDK if jb will hold, but green lock tight/sleeve retainer was the popular choice