I think my Neu 1515 1y broke down .. - RC-Monster Forums

Nard Cox · **I think my Neu 1515 1y broke down .. -** 11.28.2009, 09:43 AM

Hi guys,

I felt like driving my rC8Te a little today so I put on my PL Mashers to drive this thing on the road in front of my house a little.

After about two minutes in it was cogging (but more extreme) like crazy. So I stopped and took it in to check what was wrong. I think the motor is shot, no idea what or why. Temps were just 30C / 90F so that wasn't the problem. I made a little movie, hopefully you guys can help me.

[YOUTUBE]MMS4qqP3DvQ[/YOUTUBE]

ps. Sorry for the bad lighting!

Thanks!
Nard

Happywing · 11.28.2009, 11:54 AM

Check all of your motor/esc connections. Look for a loose solder joint or a bad connector.

Nard Cox · 12:09 PM

Will do, just checked the software also. It's 1.21 and set it to factory, then updated the cut off to 3.4v. No solution .. will check the connections (in detail) now.

EDIT : Just tried 100 times. It seems that when the tires are of the ground it all works pretty good. But as fast as I put it on the ground it dead. So don't there it's a connection since otherwise it would also cog in the air right ?

All connectors seem solid but they all have heatshrink on it so I can't look 'into' that.

Happywing · 11.28.2009, 12:09 PM

Hmmm. For your testing, is the battery topped off? I would set the LVC to 3.0 per cell, just to be sure that the LVC isn't an issue. This is a recent development, correct?

It could be the windings. You may or may not know this, but on the Neu motors, the exit wires are part of the windings. Damage or cutting those wires can cause this problem.

Nard Cox · 11.28.2009, 12:15 PM

This LiPo has 3.8v per cell left. Also tried another one which had 4.2v, so I assume the LVC nor the LiPo is the problem.

It's indeed a recent development. Before it was driving perfectly, then I was driving it towards me and stopped behind me (was a car passing by). Then I turned around because I wanted to drive it on the road again and I noticed the stutter. Then I immediately stopped and took it in.

The wires comming out of the motor are really stiff (a sign that's it's a 'real NEU' correct?) Just took of the motor, so I have it in front of me now. Can't see any damage on the wires what so ever. Nothing happend to it so that's what I find strange. It was just from one moment to the other.

I also have a Savage Flux so I should try to put that motor in there, no idea whether it will fit or not.

Happywing · 11.28.2009, 12:27 PM

The Flux motor should fit in a truggy. It's basically the same motor except the heatsink is different. Good test.

Nard Cox · 11.28.2009, 12:33 PM

Hi there. Well originally it didn't fit, also this Neu 1515 1y needed a small mod. I had to rais the center diff by +-2mm to get the motor to fit properly. Will take the Flux motor and and test if it will fit.

suicideneil · 11.28.2009, 12:33 PM

Magnet has likely seperated from the shaft- open up the endbell and take a look; you may need to remove the rotar and see of the magnet slides along the shaft/ rotates independantly when griped.

Nard Cox · 01:19 PM

Hi Neil, thanks 4 the help!!

Just put the BLUR (HPI MMM) and two 2S LiPo's on the RC8Te. Exact same problem! But now I went outside and pressed the gass a little harder and what do you know, it drives. Slow driving is no problem but when I want to accelerate it start up again. Now I will install the Flux motor in the RC8Te (also just to test if it's fit and how it performs). But the problem seems to be isolated in the motor. Will try to open up the motor on the end.

Ok, so the Flux motor doesn't fit the truggy. I had to raise the centerdiff 2mm just to fit the Neu and that's a tight fit. But the Flux motor has a bigger diameter, the Neu (F version) is 44mm and the Flux motor is 48. Will try to open up the motor now. Will my guarantee expire by doing this?

suicideneil · 11.28.2009, 02:48 PM

Nope, you're fine to open it up, just be careful when you remove the rotar as the magnets are incredibly strong- it wont come out without a bit/lot of muscle, and will try to fly out of your hands when you put it back in- use pliers or mole grips.

E-Revonut · 11.28.2009, 02:56 PM

Not saying it's a connector issue but....if it works fine with the tires in the air but not on the ground there is a big difference in the load applied to the electronics. before taking the motor apart try re soldering the bullets on the motor leads.

Nard Cox · 03:26 PM

To late, already took the motor apart. I have the shaft in my hands and the can in the other. The shaft has some spacers on it. What should I look for now? Should I be able to move the magnets on the shaft without moving the shaft?

Will make some pictures now, so they will be up in a bit.

EDIT : So here are the pictures:

Neu 1515 1Y F 2200kv

JThiessen · 11.28.2009, 04:24 PM

I think its an ESC issue. I had the same thing (loaded -vs- unloaded) happen with a Novak system, and I believe they replaced the ESC to fix the issue (but my memory is short....so I'm not putting any money on that).

Nard Cox · 11.28.2009, 04:59 PM

But that would mean that both my RC8Te and my Flux Blur Esc have the exact same problem ? Even when the Blur wasn't used since it operated flawlessly last time ? That seems unlikely to me.

I will make some pictures in daylight so the pictures are a bit better. Will also try to move the shaft within the magnets itself. Just put a pinion in, take a plier and try to turn the shaft when holding the magnets in my hand ?

suicideneil · 11.29.2009, 10:18 AM

What you are looking for is the shaft being able to rotate inside the magnet, or the magnet around the shaft- just grip the shaft with some pliar or molegrips on the flat spot, and try to rotate the magnet by hand; it it feels loose or slips at all, then its like I said.

I doubt its the esc, especially if the motor does the same thing on two different ones.

Unloaded, the magnet is tight enough on the shaft to spin the rest of the drive train; loaded, the shaft slips and only the magnet rotates within the motor can.

Easy test; put the truck on a bench, and observe the spur & pinion gear when you try to prevent the wheels from turning by holding the truck in place (be brave!)- if you hear the motor spinning but the pinion & shaft dont, then you know whats up...

Final test would be a different (any) Bl motor on the same escs, just to see if the truck does move when you hit the throttle.