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  (#181)
nitrostarter
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03.13.2010, 10:45 AM

Yeah, definitely will need some offset if you want larger wheels.


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  (#182)
FG101C
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03.13.2010, 12:22 PM

I'm unclear as to what's wrong with the stock wheels and tires. The proportion is perfect, and if you are going to be running on a track Losi has two other 320 size tires. They have the Kingpin, which looks like a Pro-Line holeshot and the other one looks like the Bowtie tire. They also have the Force wheels in black chrome, hell the Zombie max tires would be ok on a loose loamy track.

http://search.horizonhobby.com/index...d=127585E44B4D

I just want the conversion kit so I can hit the track and do some 1/10th scale ownage. What's going to suck is answering a thousand "what's that" questions the first few days at the track.

Last edited by FG101C; 03.13.2010 at 12:29 PM.
   
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  (#183)
bryan
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03.13.2010, 08:22 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by FG101C View Post
I'm unclear as to what's wrong with the stock wheels and tires. The proportion is perfect, and if you are going to be running on a track Losi has two other 320 size tires. They have the Kingpin, which looks like a Pro-Line holeshot and the other one looks like the Bowtie tire. They also have the Force wheels in black chrome, hell the Zombie max tires would be ok on a loose loamy track.

http://search.horizonhobby.com/index...d=127585E44B4D

I just want the conversion kit so I can hit the track and do some 1/10th scale ownage. What's going to suck is answering a thousand "what's that" questions the first few days at the track.
+1 On wanting the conversion kit.
   
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  (#184)
BrianG
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03.13.2010, 10:39 PM

OK, I got the Ten-T all done up. Went with the Tekin RX8 system (1900kv buggy motor) on 4s 5000mAh Turnigy's, and 20T 32p pinion. The fan on the ESC didn't work out of the box, but upon closer inspection, the red wire was pulled out of the solder joint - nothing a little soldering didn't fix.

Anyway, here are the pics of it all complete:













Drove it around in the basement and am pretty impressed. Sensored works wonderfully at low speed, and brakes are smoother. The buggy motor has plenty of power for this vehicle.
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  (#185)
95ROLR
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03.13.2010, 10:43 PM

Oh... Common, no video? BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!
   
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  (#186)
jas21373
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03.13.2010, 10:46 PM

Thats AWSOME mate ,I want one..........can't wait to see the Vid
   
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  (#187)
BrianG
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03.13.2010, 10:46 PM

Video of it running in my basement? Not likely. And it is so wet/muddy outside that it would probably sink and disappear from sight.

I'm pretty sure Mike got his done as well so he should be taking it to RCX next week.
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  (#188)
95ROLR
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03.13.2010, 10:49 PM

Is the spur a 48t, but different pitch?
   
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  (#189)
E-Revonut
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03.13.2010, 10:54 PM

If only it wasn't a Losi! I've never had anything larger from them, just 1/36 and 1/18 scale stuff but I wasn't impressed with any of it. I would like to see some other manufacturers follow suit with this class. I would like to see an RC10T 4x4! I think that a MMM 2650 combo on 3s would be adequate for this size truck.


RC-Monster RC8T 1515 2.5D/MMM/5s RC-M 4500mah
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RC18T Mamba 25/5400kv 2s lipo + 6s NiMh
   
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  (#190)
BrianG
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03.13.2010, 11:00 PM

Mike made a custom (maybe Delrin IDK) spur that is 32p and 52T.

A couple other notes about the kit:

Mike used only existing holes in the chassis.

The battery tray/ESC mount is one piece and instead of self-tapping the screws to hold it down, Mike used brass inserts.

The motor mount is a little different. It is designed like the old emaxx mount where there is only a screw hole in the bottom, but there is a radial slot on top. So, adjustment is easier. However, instead of the bottom screw holding the motor to the mount, the screw simply holds a bushing to the motor, which makes motor replacement and adjustment easier. Being skeptical, I called Mike about this and he assured me this design works well as it takes a LOT of force to strip the threads. The motor's vertical forces are still being supported by two screws.

Last edited by BrianG; 03.14.2010 at 12:17 AM.
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  (#191)
suicideneil
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03.13.2010, 11:26 PM

Looks great, but Im having trouble visualising how that bushing thing works exactly..
   
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  (#192)
BrianG
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03.13.2010, 11:32 PM

I attached a pic Mike sent me a while back. That bushing gets mounted to the motor itelf via a screw. Then, that bushing/motor just gets inserted into the hole (not funny comments linc).
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  (#193)
RC-Monster Mike
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03.14.2010, 12:24 AM

I would like to address a potential concern that may arise (and BrianG touched on) regarding the use of a single M3 screw to hold the motor in place:

The M3 screw is rated for 174,000 psi pullout/tensile strength(not a typo - 174 thousand pounds per square inch). Basically, if the screw is tight(bellville washer is included to help insure this), the strength far exceeds what is necessary for the task at hand(even with a pretty large motor). The aluminum threads in the motor would be the 1st failure point, actually - it is recommended that the screw engages threads in aluminum equal to 1-1.5x the major diameter of the screw (so 4.5mm thread engagement for optimum strength when threading into aluminum - most motors have at least 5mm thread depth). It is somewhat normal to be skeptical of a single M3 screw I suppose, but most folks don't realize exactly how much force they can take when used/tightened properly. :)

Niel - the motor mount effectively works exactly like the ERevo motor mount - just a slightly different means to the same end. :)

Last edited by RC-Monster Mike; 03.14.2010 at 01:06 AM.
   
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  (#194)
nitrostarter
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03.14.2010, 01:16 AM

Wow Mike! Bravo!! I must say I like the motor mount and the whole conversion is super clean!!! Very nice!


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  (#195)
ta_man
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03.14.2010, 12:08 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by RC-Monster Mike View Post
I would like to address a potential concern that may arise (and BrianG touched on) regarding the use of a single M3 screw to hold the motor in place:

The M3 screw is rated for 174,000 psi pullout/tensile strength(not a typo - 174 thousand pounds per square inch). Basically, if the screw is tight(bellville washer is included to help insure this), the strength far exceeds what is necessary for the task at hand(even with a pretty large motor). The aluminum threads in the motor would be the 1st failure point, actually - it is recommended that the screw engages threads in aluminum equal to 1-1.5x the major diameter of the screw (so 4.5mm thread engagement for optimum strength when threading into aluminum - most motors have at least 5mm thread depth). It is somewhat normal to be skeptical of a single M3 screw I suppose, but most folks don't realize exactly how much force they can take when used/tightened properly. :)

Niel - the motor mount effectively works exactly like the ERevo motor mount - just a slightly different means to the same end. :)
If the truck does a couple of endos and lands on its lid is that single M3 screw strong enough to keep from bending when the whole weight of the motor is now being pushed to the top of the truck (remember it landed upside down) by inertial forces? The single screw is then just a pivot point for the motor as the back end of the motor is forced away from the chassis.
   
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