LOSI LST XXL Conversion ideas - RC-Monster Forums

JThiessen · 01:29 PM

Another option for those batteries would be to just buy some Flux battery cases and mount them to the side of the chassis (someone on here did that on theirs). Very easy to mount those, and you can probably adjust the height that they sit at.

mistercrash · 04.09.2010, 07:19 PM

Didn't know about those, I'll look into that. Thanks.

mistercrash · 04.10.2010, 07:51 PM

I searched but couldn't find the dimensions of the Flux battery boxes. From the pics and the discussions on the web on what lipos fit in them, they don't seem much bigger than the E-Revo battery compartments which are too small.

JThiessen · 04.10.2010, 08:03 PM

I'll get you dimensions from mine tomorrow. I run a pair of 3S 4300's in it, and there is length to spare on them.

mistercrash · 10:40 AM

Stuff is slowly starting to come in. I got the Neu 1521 1Y and the LST2 for now. In 2006, I bought a Revo 3.3 even though my LHS owner at the time was advising me to get the Losi LST. Now that have the Losi in front of me and had a chance to look it over I'm thinking, why didn't I listen to that guy. My last experience with Losi kits (aside from my son's present Mini-T) was with a JRXT stadium truck, a XX buggy and the Street Weapon. I loved Losi kits in the past and I'm glad I have a new one to play with now.

mistercrash · 04.29.2010, 09:08 AM

This is a slow build. Sifting through boxes to find my tools and then move boxes to set up an area to fabricate a part is time consuming. Nevertheless, I am slowly moving forward with this build. I am now figuring out a way to fit the Muggy steering bellcrank with minimal modification to the chassis rails.
I am trying to win an auction on an E-Revo tranny on ebay but I haven't been lucky yet. I plan on upgrading the slipper to the Hot Racing double slipper but I won't use stock pads. Instead I will make an aluminum disk like I did in the past with the E-Revo.
Running the E-Revo tranny means I will have to fabricate another motor plate. The one I have now has been very good at supporting the CC 2200 Kv but I fear that the heavier 1521 might need some more support so I'll be looking at making something to support the rear of the motor, something like this but probably less pretty.

JThiessen · 04.29.2010, 09:39 AM

Good luck with the ebay on those. I tried for months on them, and they sold for 40 to 50 every time, then were magically relisted the next day. I reported the crap out of them, but apparently the ebay rules have no teeth. I've got a new maxx tranny that I bought a couple months ago that I'd sell you for what I paid for it (I'd have to go back and look it up).

mistercrash · 11:47 PM

Thanks for wishing me luck JT, I just won an E-Revo tranny for $35 plus $6 for shipping

I think I have the Muggy steering almost figured out, I'll post pics tomorrow. In the mail today were the Losi sway bars, the Losi 17 mm hex adapters and RC Monster drive cups.

JThiessen · 04.29.2010, 11:47 PM

I do what I can for ya!!!!

mistercrash · 09:43 AM

jpoprock,

I'm going to have to check this forum out. Thanks for the link.

A few pics of what I've been doing. I made temporary plates out of Plexi, the top plate and the front skid plate. Being transparent, it makes it easier to see where to put everything and how well it works. Three things had to be trimmed a bit from the XXL components. The plastic ring that snaps on the chassis and in which the output of the diff slips into. It had to be trimmed on either side because the ball ends of the turnbuckles hit it preventing full steering throw. The front corners of the top plate have small notches done also to keep the turnbuckles' ball ends to hit it on the suspension's full compression. Last was the chassis rails, they had to be trimmed very slightly to allow the bellcranks to move freely.

The Muggy steering assembly had to be trimmed a bit also. The posts are now 40.5 mm high. Both the bellcranks had to be trimmed to fit the shorter posts. This means shorten them and bore the hole that houses the bushing a little deeper.

I fabricated one extra part which is the extra front skid plate that holds the bottom of the steering assembly. By going with two skid plates I was able to fit the steering without trimming off too much of it. So the stock skid plate will act as a shim basically and the extra one will hold the steering.

The steering posts are placed on the chassis 48.3 mm apart. I used a turnbuckle to join them together because I wanted to have something adjustable there. I didn't know what the length of this turnbuckle should be to achieve a good ackerman so it made it easy to play around with the length to get to the ackerman I think is acceptable. The turnbuckle ended up being 47.5 mm long from the center of the screws.

There's one thing that bugs me about this set up and that's the middle shaft going to the tranny. I don't know if the part of the bellcrank that attaches to the servo's turnbuckle will hit the shaft. It depends on how far the shaft will dip down to meet the tranny. If it dips down enough, it should be fine but if it ends up being parallel to the chassis top plate then I'll have to trim the bellcrank.

All in all, it looks like it's going to work very well but it was a lot of work to make fit. Just a little cutting and grinding but on many parts. Enough talking, here's the pics. Input is welcomed as usual.

jpoprock · 05.01.2010, 11:16 AM

Hey guys... I broke a couple pins inside my tranny and have repaired numerous diff's with broken pins. I've heard that the HPI 2.5 Hellfire pins work well. But do you think that a 3mm rod would work too? Cuz if so, I found this: http://www.diversehobbies.com/catalo...roducts_id=108 3x275mm Titanium rods. If 3mm will fit, you can cut your own to length, and surely they would hold up better than the steel pins that keep breaking? Just a thought.

jason

JThiessen · 05.01.2010, 11:27 AM

Couldn't sheared pins be a sign of a diff that might not be shimmed properly? You've probably got too much free rotation of the input before it engages the gears. I don't think I have ever sheared a pin - but I'm also not going to claim that I know what I'm doing when shimming!

pinkpanda3310 · 05.02.2010, 06:05 AM

That mock up looks very very nice

If I could make one criticism though, it would be the esc is a long way from the motor wires.

Awesome build sir crasher

mistercrash · 05.02.2010, 07:51 AM

Thanks and yes, this is one thing that tore me inside when I decided to put the ESC where it is.

It was really too tight in the front. I will have to solder on longer wires no matter where I place the ESC. They will just be a little longer. Like 4 inches longer