Monster GT Conversion With A Center Diff

[Chadworkz]

Very nice!!!

[Krawlin]

Originally Posted by The Dude

now it's really finish (I'm dreaming about teleportation...)






It's not the same way, but I really have respect for your Home made work, it's more difficult for sure

but my MGT it's a hard basher, so I prefer to be sure about the motor, it's too expensive for replace it every week!!

this week I mount it... now just missing the Lipo, and the drive shaft

Wow, purely awesome to say the least.

And thanks! If I had access to a CNC mill then I would for sure have something made like yours, but since I only have access to a CNC plasma cutter, I have to stick to 2D stuff and weld. I may revise my motor mount yet again but in aluminum and TIG weld it, since I am taking a TIG welding class starting in August, just depends on how this one works out really.

I am also planning on getting some 7075-T6 aluminum sheet and making this a 100% top loading setup, where the center diff mount and motor mount bolt to the 7075-T6 sheet, which would drop down into the transmission hole and be secured to the bottom by 8 screws, which is stronger than my current setup. I might also just TIG weld a piece of 7075 to the bottom of the chassis and drill that, which would be stronger still.


Either way though, a machined mount is always going to look alot better than something home made, and I think your MGT pretty much out does mine as far as cool factor goes.


EDIT: For drive shafts, at least a rear center shaft, if you position the motor mount forward enough, a Losi XXL center CVD should work, they are 5'' long including the CV cup end, which is pretty much the same length as what I have now. I plan on moving mine back just a bit though to use a 94mm Hot Bodies dog bone and then the Losi XXL center shaft, rather than my current setup with a 91mm dog bone and Mugen MBX5T center shaft with a MGT aluminum keyed CV end.

[redshift]

Originally Posted by Krawlin

I might also just TIG weld a piece of 7075 to the bottom of the chassis and drill that, which would be stronger still.

Just a heads up, 7075 is generally not weldable, at least in any structural capacity- http://www.esabna.com/us/en/educatio...4-and-7075.cfm

And by the way, you have a wealth of info I never had access to online, do take advantage of that! You can be way ahead of the game when you start the course.

Nice mount there The Dude

[Chadworkz]

I have TIG welded 7075-T6 successfully on many different occasions, both thin and thick gauge, it just takes some time, practice, and getting used to. 7075 doesn't pool (puddle) like 6061 or other similar aluminum alloys (like 4042, 4052, 5052, etc.), and you can't stop & start. You have to start and then weld continuously for the entire seam/joint you are working on. If you stop, it can make it very difficult to start a new pool (start welding again) where you stopped, because the heat hardens the aluminum, raising the melting point of the aluminum right where you stopped, while remaining low just a couple inches away. If you do have to stop, it's best to start again from the other end, welding back toward where you stopped.

[Krawlin]

Thanks for the info redshift and Chadworkz. I will probably end up going with 6061-T6 anyway though to be honest, McMaster has a bigger selection of sizes in the 6061 grade.

[The Dude]

I must finish it for this week end... for a show here

for the drive shaft, my friend made it

I gonna try in 16/42 .... ( what do you think about ??)

[Kcaz25]

42? WOW I didn't know they made them that small? Where can I find one? Looks great of course! 42/16 seems MIGHTY fast to me!

Krawlin, sounds good!

[The Dude]

It's a X-Ray center diff

ok I gonna put a 13T pinion.... Thanks

[Krawlin]

Even 13/42 is going to be really high for the MGT. It's diff's use a typical buggy ring/pinion tooth count as far as I know, its pretty high up there, like 43/13 for the ring and pinion. I run 9/51 and 10/51 for my pinion/spur gears, anything more and it's too fast for my tastes. I made a video of it with 13/51, and it flies, so unless you have a lower Kv motor than mine (I have a 1550Kv on 6S), you are going to be hitting some really high speeds.

That looks awesome though man, really nice setup. But we need more pictures!!!

[JThiessen]

Originally Posted by Chadworkz

I have TIG welded 7075-T6 successfully on many different occasions, both thin and thick gauge, it just takes some time, practice, and getting used to. 7075 doesn't pool (puddle) like 6061 or other similar aluminum alloys (like 4042, 4052, 5052, etc.), and you can't stop & start. You have to start and then weld continuously for the entire seam/joint you are working on. If you stop, it can make it very difficult to start a new pool (start welding again) where you stopped, because the heat hardens the aluminum, raising the melting point of the aluminum right where you stopped, while remaining low just a couple inches away. If you do have to stop, it's best to start again from the other end, welding back toward where you stopped.

You can get 7075 to stick together, and make the welds "look" good, but you have all the structural strength of a piece of plastic - may as well use double backed tape. I've torn off 70 series weldments with a prybar that looked perfect.

[Chadworkz]

May I ask if you are a certified welder, or just someone who welds on occasion?

[The Dude]

I've got a 1800Kv motor..... I'm trying to find a 48T spur gear... and a 10T pinion. I gonna adjust with the test...

Originally Posted by Krawlin

That looks awesome though man, really nice setup. But we need more pictures!!!

just some pics of this afternoon



















this is not the definitive screw....
missing the lipo but I'm waiting for the postman ...

but and your truck ??? where's the pics ???

[JThiessen]

Originally Posted by Chadworkz

May I ask if you are a certified welder, or just someone who welds on occasion?

Formerly, now I do the design and inspection.

ps. It has nothing to do with your abilities - just like welding steel to aluminum. Once 70 series is heated to the molten point, it loses its chemical structure, and does not come back.

[Krawlin]

I keep forgetting. Once my batteries are charged I will get some pictures, I think...

[suicideneil]

Beautiful, thats an emaxx killer if ever I saw one