CD's for the savage? - Page 2 - RC-Monster Forums

thzero · 02.04.2011, 06:23 PM

Look at FLM's forward tranny XL chassis; I'd ask about max. size that would fit in the battery area and it was 4S and 5S or 6s was really dependent on size of battery.

Not sure how Jahay is stuffing 8-10S in his Savage, but I'm having enough issues putting 6S in my 5th scale conversion as I move to a center diff and thats only using a 1520 can.

Serum · 02.20.2011, 05:19 AM

I was working on a CD for the savage that would fit the original housing, in fact, i have the drawings ready.. Just need to find some time to make one. It used the standard size diff-cup.

Nixpus · 03.08.2011, 08:23 AM

Savage XL wide rear Hub/knuckle/whateverthenameis prototype:

Close up:

This increases the distance between the two bearings. Which hopefully will decrease axle vibration/wobble and bearing wear.

Nixpus · 03.08.2011, 08:37 AM

Been debating back and forth with myself :)

Do I really want to fit all of this in between the TVPs:

The batteries could sit at the back... but they would sit a bit high for my liking (COG issue) and the truck would be arse heavy:

In a battery box the balance of the truck would be easier to adjust. Further more the batteries could sit lower... battery boxes it is:

The 1717 and 52T CD can be implemented off axis in order to allow for a slightly lower motor positioning. It will sit at the same height as a Flux... but with a CD :)

The only thing Im a bit annoyed about is the need for a custom dogbone. I really do not like to have "wear" parts which are custom work. Working assumption is to use the standard XL rear Dogbone in the front and do a custom dogbone for the rear.

Guess Im ready to hit the workshop :)

thzero · 03.08.2011, 10:12 AM

Looks nice, but still leaves you with a poor axle design. Why not go with an LST2, 8T, RC8T, etc. axle/cvd setup if you are going to the extra effort?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nixpus

This increases the distance between the two bearings. Which hopefully will decrease axle vibration/wobble and bearing wear.

And I would say just use the battery boxes. I have enough trouble trying to get a CD, batteries, motors to all fit in a stretched 5T custom chassis that I can't imagine trying it in a XL chassis.

Might want to look around for dogbones. Might find something thats the right length.

Nixpus · 03.08.2011, 10:43 AM

Maybe im just dense... but whats the big problem with the XL dogbones? I havent broken one yet... yet!

Also... if the dogbone/CVD is beefed up to bullet proff... something else will fail instead. Id prefer to have a dog bone as the weak link. Am I missing something obvious?

thzero · 03.08.2011, 10:48 AM

Nothing, I didn't mention the dogbones, rather tha axles. Axles are poor design given where the pin is located. Perhaps with the extended bearing support you won't snap the axle as much where the threads end; thats where I've always snapped my XL axles. Maybe its cheaper to replace the axles.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nixpus

Maybe im just dense... but whats the big problem with the XL dogbones? I havent broken one yet... yet!

Also... if the dogbone/CVD is beefed up to bullet proff... something else will fail instead. Id prefer to have a dog bone as the weak link. Am I missing something obvious?

Nixpus · 03.08.2011, 04:28 PM

Checked your build thread... I see what you mean ;)

Still your running a rather heavy truck with pretty heavy wheels. The XL was designed to run with Terra pins at worst. Hopefully the axles in my XL size conversion with 40 series mashers will be ok

After toying with the different parts today trying to figure out a feasible setup with regards to weight distribution (CoG and front/rear) I realized that my biggest problem with this build is the swizz cheese standard TVPs. Im missing material in the wrong spots! So I contacted a new Euro RC custom products supplier and got a quote for XL TVPs with no cut outs. Only holes for bulk head mounting pre made.
Initially I figured Id go with 5mm TVPs and cut them low to enhance the low CoG layout... but it turns out Alza can also supply them in 3,2mm carbon fibre... what to do :)

thzero · 03.08.2011, 05:11 PM

Well I had some issues with some 40 series Big Joes on my nitro XL too; however they are running heavier 40 series beadlocks, but I don't know that the wheels are too much heavier than non-beadlock wheels.

I'd go with 4mm... save some weight ESPECIALLY if you aren't doing any cutouts, those are bound to be heavy at 5mm. 5mm in the 5th scale build just has been overkill. :)

I'd base any design off the Flux chassis plates not the Savage X/XL plates. The Flux has a low CoG built in anyways.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nixpus

Checked your build thread... I see what you mean ;)

Still your running a rather heavy truck with pretty heavy wheels. The XL was designed to run with Terra pins at worst. Hopefully the axles in my XL size conversion with 40 series mashers will be ok

After toying with the different parts today trying to figure out a feasible setup with regards to weight distribution (CoG and front/rear) I realized that my biggest problem with this build is the swizz cheese standard TVPs. Im missing material in the wrong spots! So I contacted a new Euro RC custom products supplier and got a quote for XL TVPs with no cut outs. Only holes for bulk head mounting pre made.
Initially I figured Id go with 5mm TVPs and cut them low to enhance the low CoG layout... but it turns out Alza can also supply them in 3,2mm carbon fibre... what to do :)

Yeah, nice you found someone that will do things for a reasonable cost and actually respond to customer queries.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nixpus

but it turns out Alza can also supply them in 3,2mm carbon fibre... what to do :)

_dV · 03.09.2011, 03:45 AM

Nixpus, check my build from last year. Batteries in the back are fine, my weight is almost perfectly centered and the truck flies like a goddamn arrow. I actually found a slight bigger battery (5000mAh 6s) was better in my truck to give it a touch more rear traction.

All my stuff fitted in between the TVPs but the 1717 might make it difficult.

Who makes the rear wide hub? Will there be one for the front?

Nixpus · 11:05 AM

The wide hub will be made by my tool shop colleague. A wide front knuckle is also in the works. We'll only be doing two sets... but the idea is free to copy :)

Im still messing about with my ultra low CoG layout... might do cut outs in the TVP's to have the batteries sit horizontally just above a wide skid plate.

I actually think I could fit the 1717 in on the side of the servo like you did. Not a bad idea! The motor mounting is also smart... but may take too much space.

03.09.2011, 03:26 PM

Here At us in Moscow that creates the people
http://forum.rcdesign.ru/f27/thread219012-16.html

Nixpus · 03.11.2011, 07:17 AM

Not bad Berserk :)

Cant understand a word on the Russian forum but there are some nice pictures!

Nixpus · 03.11.2011, 07:37 AM

With my current layout the motor sits in the back and thus I fear the truck will be rear heavy unless I mount the batteries in the front.

Id still prefer to do a wide skid plate and have the batteries "side down" on each side of the front dogbone... but if it jacks my weight distribution I'll have to mount battery boxes up front.

So question for the pro's... is the flux battery boxes ok or should I aim at another brand or make some myself?

JERRY2KONE · **Me too -** 03.11.2011, 07:43 AM

Yea me too. Love the videos, which helps when you cannot read a word of what is being shared. That truck seems to have plenty of power, and half decent handling, but the tires need to be taped to reduce the balooning effect. Looks like a fun vehicle. Was that a CC 1717 being used in there? What ESC was that?