need a diff gear alternative (CRT X2)

[scarletboa]

i was hearing clicking coming from the rear diff on hard acceleration, so i opened up the diff case and after seeing no damage to the pinion or ring gear, i reshimmed and went to go run it again. the clicking was still there, so i decided to just run it until the diff is fried.

when the clicking became constant on any throttle, i picked up the truck and noticed the rear wheels were very rough when turning 1 at a time, so now i know that it is the diff internal gears that are shot. the problem is that they are aluminum gears (to save weight i guess) and if i get a new set, those gears will just wear out as well.

does anyone know a good, cheap steel internal diff gear set that will fit in the stock diff cup? i know diff case sizes vary, but aren't the internal gears pretty much the same size in all 1/8th scale diffs?

thanks in advance for any help/advice

[Thirdgen89GTA]

Originally Posted by scarletboa

i was hearing clicking coming from the rear diff on hard acceleration, so i opened up the diff case and after seeing no damage to the pinion or ring gear, i reshimmed and went to go run it again. the clicking was still there, so i decided to just run it until the diff is fried.

when the clicking became constant on any throttle, i picked up the truck and noticed the rear wheels were very rough when turning 1 at a time, so now i know that it is the diff internal gears that are shot. the problem is that they are aluminum gears (to save weight i guess) and if i get a new set, those gears will just wear out as well.

does anyone know a good, cheap steel internal diff gear set that will fit in the stock diff cup? i know diff case sizes vary, but aren't the internal gears pretty much the same size in all 1/8th scale diffs?

thanks in advance for any help/advice

I would just switch back to the steel internals. You won't really notice it as much as you'd think with BL power. I'm still using the original steel spider gears in my Jammin X1 CRT Pro. I've had some major modded engines in there for the last 5 years and they are still going strong.

The aluminium is great, but you have to pay to play with them. The alloy is just too soft for that kind of application. 1/8th scale's put a ton of stress on components. Its amazing that they are as durable as they are.

[scarletboa]

Originally Posted by Thirdgen89GTA

I would just switch back to the steel internals. You won't really notice it as much as you'd think with BL power. I'm still using the original steel spider gears in my Jammin X1 CRT Pro. I've had some major modded engines in there for the last 5 years and they are still going strong.

The aluminium is great, but you have to pay to play with them. The alloy is just too soft for that kind of application. 1/8th scale's put a ton of stress on components. Its amazing that they are as durable as they are.

i never had steel diff internals. when i go to order the replacement gears, whether they are the x1 or x2 gears, they are still aluminum. the only ofna gears i could find for this truggy are aluminum. i went ahead and ordered some diff gears from a HotBodies Lightning. the gears have the same amount of teeth and look the same as the stock ones. hopefully they work.

[Thirdgen89GTA]

Originally Posted by scarletboa

i never had steel diff internals. when i go to order the replacement gears, whether they are the x1 or x2 gears, they are still aluminum. the only ofna gears i could find for this truggy are aluminum. i went ahead and ordered some diff gears from a HotBodies Lightning. the gears have the same amount of teeth and look the same as the stock ones. hopefully they work.

I thought the internal gears on the X1 were hardened steel. The aluminium CNC cross pins are the upgrade part. But I've never needed them.

Give www.nitrohouse.com a ring. They're great to talk to about upgrade parts for the Jammin's. Nexx8T parts should be similar. OFNA dropped the Jammin name, and the Nexx8T is essentially the Jammin X3 CRT.