Quick question: Are the shoes installed according to the instructions (reverse orientation)? Any pics of the clutch with the clutch bell off?
Yes, they were. The only thing I can think of now is if the collet is not grabbing the shaft. This is the only thing I can think of as a problem now.
Thanks for your help.
I'll be back.
Castle Neu 1520 on 6S LiPo Powered Gmaxx (Nitro Killer)
Predator with OS .21TM
Supermaxx with Mach .26
Revo with OS .18TZ
Kyosho ST-RR Conversion
Ofna CR with Tekin ESC/Motor (2)
Quick question: Are the shoes installed according to the instructions (reverse orientation)? Any pics of the clutch with the clutch bell off?
i have tryed them both ways and they still get very hot, i didnt think of the shoes being much hotter than the bell, i guess that why it slaged 3 stock clutches before i changed to an aluminum 3 shoe
Clutch shoe positioned on leading edge. It's been set like this since I started messing with it.
Tightened the clutch nut again using my Kyosho lockout tool:
I decided to install a new stock clutch.
Still the same heat problems.
Here's a couple of videos:
Castle Neu 1520 on 6S LiPo Powered Gmaxx (Nitro Killer)
Predator with OS .21TM
Supermaxx with Mach .26
Revo with OS .18TZ
Kyosho ST-RR Conversion
Ofna CR with Tekin ESC/Motor (2)
I suppose I should state the obvious: You should revert to the other shoe set for now! Geez! 285*F is rediculous! What's the melting point of steel???
What other shoe? the 4-shoe? or aluminum shoes?
I'm getting tired of removing and re-installing this elektri-crap . I'll try the 4-shoe clutch with carbon shoes but this time have the shoes trailing and see the difference. If not, I'll just wait for the long-shank pinions I ordered or put spacers and use a regular length pinion.
Castle Neu 1520 on 6S LiPo Powered Gmaxx (Nitro Killer)
Predator with OS .21TM
Supermaxx with Mach .26
Revo with OS .18TZ
Kyosho ST-RR Conversion
Ofna CR with Tekin ESC/Motor (2)
Revving at low speeds is going to heat up the clutch with just about any setup (nitro too) and isn't a good indicator for operating temperature. If you're doing mostly low speed driving take the spring off of the clutch shoes or use a pinion. Your spring may need replacing if it had moderate to extensive use when your Revo was nitro.
Try no spring and if that doesn't drop the temps, send us an email and we'll send you some new shoes to try.
TeknoRC, thanks a lot. I'll try the 4-shoe clutch without any springs. I'm just getting tired of taking it off and then re-installing. The 150 temps was after running it approximately 10 feet.
Like I said in my previous post, I tried the 4-shoe clutch with the shoes trailing but still got the same result.
Castle Neu 1520 on 6S LiPo Powered Gmaxx (Nitro Killer)
Predator with OS .21TM
Supermaxx with Mach .26
Revo with OS .18TZ
Kyosho ST-RR Conversion
Ofna CR with Tekin ESC/Motor (2)
My input after using the Tekno 8T setup:
1. Minimise light throttle inputs after coasting/braking etc. Need to be a bit more aggressive with the throttle than you're used to with a direct drive to lock the clutch up.
2. Remove the clutch spring. The smaller diameter of the Revo clutch bell means less centrifugal force is available to throw out the clutch shoes.
3. Heavier (ie Ali compared to composite) clutch shoes might help as well to give a quicker and more positive clutch action.
No matter what you do, though, the clutch bell will get hot! Just less hot if you do the above.
Last edited by Nissanmania; 11.13.2008 at 02:57 AM.